2018 Wrangler JL- Upgrading from JL Audio 8" microsub

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I just changed the order to a dayton ho 12" dvc. I was struggling with the 12" bc I want the top of the box height to be closer to 13" and the 12" will be very tight.  I have plenty of room for width and depth, just not height.  People have been telling me a 10" is generally more punchy for rock music and the 12" would get lower and is more for bassheads.  They also said a 10" would blend better with my 5.25" components.  

Where can I get a grill for the sub?  I dont like the 3 bar grill look.  

thats absolutely false about size and subs. Smaller subs arent more punchy, bigger subs dont play deeper. Only difference is cone area which is overall output across the spectrum. A 10 would blend the same as a 12 as long as they are built for similar TS electrical parameters, they would sound basically the same but the 12 is louder overall. If you want punch or kick in rock music, you definitely need more cone area for output to get that actual kick in the chest feeling or else it'll just be a really weak kick because a 10 has considerably less cone area than a 12 and this is a sealed box which means your output is less than ported so cone area will really bring back the output you are giving up by going sealed buuut your SQ will be better so you get the best of both worlds by doing a 12 vs a 10.   I listen to rock and metal and so far 18s in a walled alignment have given me the best and most accurate kick with double bass pedals over any trunk setup i've had. Its all about the enclosure and system setup.  

I'd suggest knowing basic car audio fundamentals. This is about subwoofer size etc...

 https://glasswolf.net/papers/spkrsize.html

You can browse through the rest of the research papers for other topics as well vs listening to noobs that perpetuate that speaker size stuff being more accurate lmfaoooo

https://glasswolf.net/papers/index.html

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

The goal is to always have more output than needed then you turn your sub down via gains or your sub knob which will make everything run nice and smooth electrical wise as well as keeping the signal clean since you are barely drawing any power from the amp to get the output you want but on the songs that call for bass, you'll have the capability to do so vs wondering "I wish i had more" Its all planned to future proof your needs.  

 

[JeeperVol]

The goal is to always have more output than needed then you turn your sub down via gains or your sub knob which will make everything run nice and smooth electrical wise as well as keeping the signal clean since you are barely drawing any power from the amp to get the output you want but on the songs that call for bass, you'll have the capability to do so vs wondering "I wish i had more" Its all planned to future proof your needs.  

Great info...I ordered the wire terminals and black carpet...getting 3M 77 adhesive and tite bond at home depot tomorrow.   Where can I get a black grill for the sub?  I dont like the 3 bar grill

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Great info...I ordered the wire terminals and black carpet...getting 3M 77 adhesive and tite bond at home depot tomorrow.   Where can I get a black grill for the sub?  I dont like the 3 bar grill

https://www.amazon.com/QUALITY-UNIVERSAL-WOOFER-GRILLE-INCHES/dp/B00I552BO0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_23_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y2VVVP41C4XM2Z942K58#customerReviews

 

[JeeperVol]

https://www.amazon.com/QUALITY-UNIVERSAL-WOOFER-GRILLE-INCHES/dp/B00I552BO0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_23_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y2VVVP41C4XM2Z942K58#customerReviews

Thanks...have you installed that grill on this Dayton sub?  They dont state the actual diameter or depth and there is a review saying a Alpine type r sub was ruined bc it was hitting the grill upon excursion.  I talked with Parts Express tech guy yesterday morning and he said to make sure the grill can allow for proper excursion and I may need to add a spacer to push the grill out a bit.  Thoughts?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks...have you installed that grill on this Dayton sub?  They dont state the actual diameter or depth and there is a review saying a Alpine type r sub was ruined bc it was hitting the grill upon excursion.  I talked with Parts Express tech guy yesterday morning and he said to make sure the grill can allow for proper excursion and I may need to add a spacer to push the grill out a bit.  Thoughts?

I saw that exact review and alpine was literally trying to get out of warrantying the sub for him and gave him BS excuses. Its not because of the grill, its because the glue failed at the triple joint where the spider and coil connects. Thats not something rubbing the surround against the grill would do at all, the most the rub would do is scratch the foam surround, not launch the whole coil through the spider which is from using way too big of a box while playing way too low of a bass note along with heavy clipping or maxed out gain settings. Literally pure user error.  There's other reviews that said it works fine with their dayton sub. There's also this other reviews of two others with alpine type Rs as well and he had no issues. So that review you read is literally a noob that fked up his sub by abusing it and is pissed off that no one is warrantying his f**k up which is not covered by warranty.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

gotta learn to spot out the idiots in the review lol. Just like those guys saying boss audio has amazing SQ and blew out their windshields.

Really deep ones have a different sub brand name on them.

https://www.amazon.com/PowerBass-SWX-Steel-Subwoofer-Grill/dp/B07NNXTRSH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=subwoofer+grill&qid=1561115580&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

While this universal one is 1.5 inches on the surround and .5 inches in the center vs 1 and 1/4 of the one I linked but it comes in two.

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Beehive-Excursion-Subwoofer-Speaker/dp/B00F4BYXMG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=subwoofer+grill&qid=1561115580&s=gateway&sr=8-4

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I made a pretty kickass grille from scrap wood...

 

[JeeperVol]

gotta learn to spot out the idiots in the review lol. Just like those guys saying boss audio has amazing SQ and blew out their windshields.

Really deep ones have a different sub brand name on them.

https://www.amazon.com/PowerBass-SWX-Steel-Subwoofer-Grill/dp/B07NNXTRSH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=subwoofer+grill&qid=1561115580&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

While this universal one is 1.5 inches on the surround and .5 inches in the center vs 1 and 1/4 of the one I linked but it comes in two.

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Beehive-Excursion-Subwoofer-Speaker/dp/B00F4BYXMG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=subwoofer+grill&qid=1561115580&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Have you personally installed any of these grills?  With the xmax being 14mm(.55"),  looks like the original universal grill that you linked should work having 1" clearance on the surround and 1/4" in the center.   I bought it...will prob get some longer screws to go into the plywood 

 

[JeeperVol]

gotta learn to spot out the idiots in the review lol. Just like those guys saying boss audio has amazing SQ and blew out their windshields.

Really deep ones have a different sub brand name on them.

https://www.amazon.com/PowerBass-SWX-Steel-Subwoofer-Grill/dp/B07NNXTRSH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=subwoofer+grill&qid=1561115580&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

While this universal one is 1.5 inches on the surround and .5 inches in the center vs 1 and 1/4 of the one I linked but it comes in two.

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Beehive-Excursion-Subwoofer-Speaker/dp/B00F4BYXMG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=subwoofer+grill&qid=1561115580&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Jeff, I just bought the wood and materials at home depot.  Thanks again for all your help and my apologies for the repeated questions.  I was going to begin making the box tonight...Is there any way you can send over a final cut sheet with these dimensions : 15" wide × 14" tall × 9" top rear depth & 12" bottom rear depth?  Thanks a ton....sorry for the repetitive questions.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Jeff, I just bought the wood and materials at home depot.  Thanks again for all your help and my apologies for the repeated questions.  I was going to begin making the box tonight...Is there any way you can send over a final cut sheet with these dimensions : 15" wide × 14" tall × 9" top rear depth & 12" bottom rear depth?  Thanks a ton....sorry for the repetitive questions.

you definitely want that polyfill 

 

[JeeperVol]

you definitely want that polyfill 

View attachment 5760

Thanks!  Got her cut to size with 10 layer plywood 

 

[JeeperVol]

you definitely want that polyfill 

View attachment 5760

I paid $50 for this "premium" sheet of plywood at Lowes and am seeing quite a few voids.  The regular pine looked worse.   My local box builders recommended 3/4" mdf bc plywood quality is inconsistent.  Do you think the voids are going to cause sound issues?  I paid a guy $40 to make the cuts and angle the edges.

 

[fithwheel]

It'll be ok. 

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I paid $50 for this "premium" sheet of plywood at Lowes and am seeing quite a few voids.  The regular pine looked worse.   My local box builders recommended 3/4" mdf bc plywood quality is inconsistent.  Do you think the voids are going to cause sound issues?  I paid a guy $40 to make the cuts and angle the edges.

you'll be fine. Even with all the voids it still way stronger than MDF and has better acoustical dampening properties and is way lighter.

The video I linked you with the guy doing tests on MDF vs cheapest pine ply already has data on it.  

Also have angle of deflection tests here as well. MDF is weak and heavy. No sense in doing mdf unless you want a nice coat of paint.

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/206653-an-experiment-in-box-materials/