Help picking between two subs

Jonnyswboy

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Hello,

I am trying to pick between the Fi X v3 15 and a Fi SSD 15. I only have my stock 110A alternator with no plans to upgrade it. I am wondering which will give me more dB SPL at 1000w RMS. The X v3 is rated at 1000RMS but has a lower sensitivity of 86dB vs the SSD's 89dB which is rated for 1250RMS. If I power the SSD with only 1000w would it still out perform the X v3?

Thanks a lot!

 
You need a 2k amp to clamp 1k. A 1k amp will clamp 500-600w. You wont be feeing it the power that you think you are. At best you only have the power to give either of those subs half of what they are designed for. That's not inherently a bad thing but its important to understand and know the limits of your equipment. 

 
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You need a 2k amp to clamp 1k. A 1k amp will clamp 500-600w. You wont be feeing it the power that you think you are. At best you only have the power to give either of those subs half of what they are designed for. That's not inherently a bad thing but its important to understand and know the limits of your equipment. 
I plan to buy a Skar LP-1000.1Dv2 which dynos stable 1000w at 1ohm. Not sure if what you are saying applies. 

 
What vehicle is this going in? Cabin space or enclosed Trunk?There may be a better option for you with better performance working with the right box being built and with the power you have on tap

 
What vehicle is this going in? Cabin space or enclosed Trunk?There may be a better option for you with better performance working with the right box being built and with the power you have on tap
Enclosed trunk of my 2010 Mazda 6. If getting a 12 means better performance I am all for it as ideally I want to sacrifice as little space as possible. A 15 in a 3-4cuft ported box seemed like the best option but I am no expert. 

Thank you for all the help btw.

 
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I plan to buy a Skar LP-1000.1Dv2 which dynos stable 1000w at 1ohm. Not sure if what you are saying applies. 
you never get 1 ohm power wired to 1 ohm. When the sub sees power and the coil travels through the motor, your ohms change.  This information is only known to people that actually clamp test their amps for real world power numbers aka competitors in restricted power classes.    When you wire to 1 ohm expect to see triple the impedance rise aka you will only see 2 to 4 ohm power out of the amp. Never anywhere close to 1 ohm. Its not the amp's fault, its basic physics and unavoidable. The only solution is to get more power than needed or wire stupid low with an amp that can handle it.  This is the reason why some people wire their amps to 0.25 ohms.

 
you never get 1 ohm power wired to 1 ohm. When the sub sees power and the coil travels through the motor, your ohms change.  This information is only known to people that actually clamp test their amps for real world power numbers aka competitors in restricted power classes.    When you wire to 1 ohm expect to see triple the impedance rise aka you will only see 2 to 4 ohm power out of the amp. Never anywhere close to 1 ohm. Its not the amp's fault, its basic physics and unavoidable. The only solution is to get more power than needed or wire stupid low with an amp that can handle it.  This is the reason why some people wire their amps to 0.25 ohms.
Now I have literally zero idea what to buy...

 
I just don't understand some people,,,,,they wanna install a sub and amp but refuse to upgrade the electrical. That poor amp and sub are gonna suffer.

It takes power to make power.

 
I just don't understand some people,,,,,they wanna install a sub and amp but refuse to upgrade the electrical. That poor amp and sub are gonna suffer.

It takes power to make power.
I am not trying to exceed my alternator... It's not like you have zero headroom with a 110A alternator. 

 
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I am not trying to exceed my alternator... It's not like you have zero headroom with a 110A alternator. 
Install a voltmeter in your car and It doesnt matter, you can always turn the gains down till your voltages are healthy levels. You can run a 100k amp on a stock 60 amp alt no issues as long as you adjust the gain and output levels to where your electricals can support it.  Only when you full tilt the amp like a noob without checking voltages.   Hook up the amp, play some music, make sure your volts are keeping above 12.0 and you are fine, if you want more out of the amp, you can always upgrade electrical later. 

 
Install a voltmeter in your car and It doesnt matter, you can always turn the gains down till your voltages are healthy levels. You can run a 100k amp on a stock 60 amp alt no issues as long as you adjust the gain and output levels to where your electricals can support it.  Only when you full tilt the amp like a noob without checking voltages.   Hook up the amp, play some music, make sure your volts are keeping above 12.0 and you are fine, if you want more out of the amp, you can always upgrade electrical later. 
https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-2000-1D-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B01FXSU6J8/

👍?

 
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meh chinese low quality board. dynos 2250 costs 230$

taramps md 1800.1 dynos 2450 costs 180$

taramps md 3000.1 ^ you can pretty much see how much power this should dyno at. costs 205$ and it has a remote clipping indicator as well. The skar is no where near a taramps HD 3000.1 from my IRL tests output, efficiency sound quality etc..  and the MD series is much stronger than the HD series.

 
again, dont be intimidated by the 3000 number. Just lower your gains till your voltages stay above 12.0 on the strongest bass notes and you will have zero issues and you'll be pretty future proof with the amp.

I'd take the  SSD over the X if you have space for a big ported enclosure.  X if you are stuck with a sealed box.

 
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