March 1 Audio.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/redface.gif.62fdbfe1a101588a808c4cff71bcb942.gif I knowIn the center is my Nitrous tank so cant make it a single box all the way through. When I talked to them about making the box they where going to be facing up. I use to have my battery in the hatch, but had to put it back under the hood because it was very close to the sub and I was afraid when I put some real power to the subs it would hit it.

I was originally quoted $375 for a sealed and ported box (was going to run 2 amps)with subs and port facing up and ended up with 2 sealed facing back for $400

im sorry but your pockets got raped for what you got looks like 2 prefab sealed boxs with two boards going acrossthem not glued or screwed to the boxes and the carpet is different color...

 
The boards are screwed to each box, just the top one fell off when I tried to move it and I unscrewed the other to move around easier. They are made from 5/8" MDF and resin sealed seams.

But yes I will agree my pockets got raped. I just wanted a professional box make for my specific subs specs so went to a professional shop....

 
What do you guys think about the size of the box for the subs? I think they are to small

 
LOL I went to that shop, at least I think it was mach1 it was off rice street. Anyway I went in for a 1/0 to 4gauge reducer. I was shocked at how crappy their selection of products were. I'd rather go to best buy lol. They didn't have the reducer and the guy at the counter asked me what I wanted it for and preceded to tell me 1/0 is rarely needed in an install. I told him I got a 3600watt amp so thats the reason for the 1/0. He asked me what kind I told him its a MA Audio HK602sx. He didn't know what it was so he asked me what it had for fuses. (I don't know why he cared about all this when I just wanted a reducer) I told him it had 6x40amp fuses. He said that doesn't do 3600 watts, I said I know it doesn't do 3600 but it'll do close to 3k. He then preceded to take out a calculator, punched some numbers and showed me the calculator, it said 1400. He told me this was all that amp was gonna put out for rms. I laughed in his face and left. Anyone know how he got that number??

 
Those "shops" are out there to make money just like anyone else. I like to go into places and look around and shoot the chit, get small items and thats about as far as it goes.

On a side note your amp is probably closer to 1400w then it is to 3600w..

 
LOL I went to that shop, at least I think it was mach1 it was off rice street. Anyway I went in for a 1/0 to 4gauge reducer. I was shocked at how crappy their selection of products were. I'd rather go to best buy lol. They didn't have the reducer and the guy at the counter asked me what I wanted it for and preceded to tell me 1/0 is rarely needed in an install. I told him I got a 3600watt amp so thats the reason for the 1/0. He asked me what kind I told him its a MA Audio HK602sx. He didn't know what it was so he asked me what it had for fuses. (I don't know why he cared about all this when I just wanted a reducer) I told him it had 6x40amp fuses. He said that doesn't do 3600 watts, I said I know it doesn't do 3600 but it'll do close to 3k. He then preceded to take out a calculator, punched some numbers and showed me the calculator, it said 1400. He told me this was all that amp was gonna put out for rms. I laughed in his face and left. Anyone know how he got that number??
A common practice to getting a power rating from fusing is to take a normal cars resting voltage at idle which is 14.4 volts and times that by the total amount of amperage fuse and then take the efficiency of the amp into effect (as in 1 ohm is typically 75% meaning 75% of input gets turned into output). so if you say the amp has 6 x 40 amp fuses. thats 240 total amps of fusing. so times that by the cars voltage and you get 3456 wattage of input (this is givent hat your car can maintain this wattage of output) then take the 75% into effect and you get 2592 wattage of output MAX before you pop fuses. so what he did was probly divided that by 2 to get approx a 1300 watts rms rating.... this is at one ohm.... he wasnt off base, you just didnt know what you were talking about //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

PS: 1/0 never hurts in an install //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif id rather have big wire then little wire //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
1/0 never hurts in an install //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif id rather have big wire then little wire //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
I wish i would have went with 1/0, oh well maybe when it comes time to do the big 3 ill take out the 4ga.

 
1/0 never hurts in an install //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif id rather have big wire then little wire //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
I wish i would have went with 1/0, oh well maybe when it comes time to do the big 3 ill take out the 4ga.

 
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