Recent content by JakeW

I’ve personally experienced this. 1 d2 sub, 1 coil measured 2ohm and the other measured some crazy 3.24 or something. Guy blamed my cheap meter, then the same results after me purchasing a $200 fluke. Must check them together, then get that number individually

Always appreciate your input sir

The factory cable was oxidized like 8” from the battery, so it had to be replaced. I didn’t have enough 4ga to do it, so I had to use 0/1.

The only reason I’m considering** is for a repair on thanksgiving sir.

We always use it to upgrade between batteries and alternator, but I’ve never heard of using it as starter cable. Can it be done?

Knowing you “need to do” those things, you already know you’re cutting yourself short to begin with. Just saying man. And the smart 3 bass is .5 rated, if you’re happy with rise after 2 ohm then hopefully the 4500 is enough for you. I’ve heard of the lvl 4 getting ar upgrades and whatnot but...

How cheap? I have the same subs on a smart 3 bass wired to .5 they could probably take more but I’m happy with rms right now.

I guess I don’t know if they had recones ready to go in stock, I had just waited for them to build brand new since it was under warranty. But yea 6 months is forever lol

Lost the coil back in April…. Finally got it back! 2 lvl 4 now on a smart 3 bass @ .5. Def better lows now with these better crossovers than the MD… probably handle more rms, but my voltage ain’t there so im satisfied!

The wiring got cleaned up of course, but here’s how my lithium with dual runs to the md5k (which ain’t there anymore) but you get the idea!

Yea that makes sense. My sh t is behind the seat anyways.

You ever run acrylic backs for show?

I actually emailed him earlier asking if they used the same piece. Thanks dude!

Who makes the best dual inputs for 0 gauge?

And is the light flashing on the case? It can flash a certain number of times and give you a code I think? Look in your manual