Recent content by tommydh

I have never had one short. You probably need better crimpers if you are worried about them coming apart. I always tug on the connection after I crimp to ensure good connection. Any short in your electrical system is not good in general, you can always add a fuse inline to add some protection.

What kind of car is it? I think you should be fine. Are you using 4 awg for your big 3 since thats all you are planning on using for amps?

I see nothing wrong with wiring the speakers in series but as said above the crossover may present issues. You may be able to run a pair of mids through one xover n series and the tweets on the other xover in series. I just don't know about running the xovers themselves in series.

Those are solid amps. That version of the Punch Subs were never my fave but not bad. I could see asking 400 for the 2 amps maybe 500 with subs.

The Microphone and pink noise are tools to allow the unit itself to tune. Place the Mic about where your head would be. I don't have first hand experience with that specific unit but I have used DSP's in the past in both cars and Live Music Venues. The Mic will pick up the pink noise from each...

I would bridge it for the front and run the rear off head unit. you can always try it both ways and see how it sounds.

With Hifonics you must use both sets of terminals at 1 ohm. I made the mistake of thinking it would be ok to just use 1 set on a Brutus BRZ 1700. I originally used both terminals but when I built a new enclosure I set it up with only one set of wires coming out. As soon as I powered it up and...

I would get the CDT set. I used to run the Polk stuff along time ago when it was actually made in Baltimore, but in my opinion the CDT at that price is a winner.

When you do find a new Ground spot look for something existing that is tapped. If nothing like that is available make sure you cleanthe area to bare metal and nut and bolt with a lock washer. DO NOT use a self tapping screw

I recommend buying something decent nothing too expensive. check this one out

I found a diagram on 12volt.com. It says Orange/black is the 12v constant and Yellow/black is the switched 12v. That would be your remote. You can pick up a decent multimeter for 50 bucks and that would save you some headache as well.

Nice

What gauge wire are you running? Where are you picking the remote wire from? A basic 2 amp power set up should be at least a 4 gauge from battery to a distribution block, I usually use a fused distribution block for power and non fused for ground. The remote wire should run through a relay if...

Also make sure your meter is set on DC voltage.

Sounds like a bad ground. Unhook the remote and power from amp and measure voltage. With vehicle off it should be 12v on power and 0 on remote, with vehicle on should be 12v on both. If that checks out good then its probably in the amp.