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1993 exploder build
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<blockquote data-quote="atoz2" data-source="post: 8520910" data-attributes="member: 662376"><p>[quote name='The Camry']Couple things, You should be VERY careful about low voltage on high powered applications. You can blow **** up quickly on a hot day. Your upgrade path should be focused on everything electrical to keep that voltage steady. When you can park and pound and not worry about voltage, then worry about getting louder/add speakers. </p><p></p><p>As for getting louder, im sure you know this but doubling power and doubling cone area is the same 3 DB gain so your power constraints get real limited, real fast. </p><p></p><p><strong>Have you considered building a wall?</strong></p><p></p><p>Keep in mind weight as you add things, leaf springs, shocks, ect become an issue. [USER=661255]@adulbrich[/USER] knows all about that. </p><p></p><p>Cheapest route to getting loud for you right now should be focused on bracing the **** out of everything. CLD, thick mdf where you can fit it and expanding foam in every nook and cranny. The more rattles and panel flex your getting, the less acoustic energy your actually getting. Not that their cheap but GP Deadener seems to be some incredible stuff for spl crowds. <a href="http://gpcaraudio.com/gp-stfu/" target="_blank">GP STFU SOUND DEADENER - gp car audio</a></p><p></p><p>As for speakers, 6.5s can have less than a 5" inner diameter so they will fit into your hole with an adapter. Or you could just **** up the hole and glass 8s. </p><p><a href="http://store.crescendoaudio.com/pwx-pro-midranges/" target="_blank">Speakers - PWX Pro Midranges - Crescendo Audio Factory Direct Online Store</a></p><p>Great 6,8,10s ^</p><p></p><p>Have you played around with tuning at all? find your resonant freq and tune to that if you just want to be stupid loud without any musicality at all. Look into making an adjustable port.</p><p></p><p>Im gonna stress this part. Make sure what you buy is future proofed because everything audio related loses 50% of its value the moment you open it. Subs ESPECIALLY because you can get free shipping on them but lose 1/4 of your profit from shipping them to someone else. Subs are hard A&#39;F&#39; to sell. so buy the biggest, baddest gear you can the first time.</p></blockquote><p></p><p>Yeah I&#39;m pretty careful with my voltage. Always keep it in check. I have not found my resonant frequency. Only really tuned to 32 and 27 so far. What specific expanding foam is the one to use? I know great stuff but I&#39;ve heard the big gap filler warps panels. And I never knew pwx were 5" inner diameter that&#39;s great. I have some sky high deadener comming, i&#39;d like to do the doors and front roof with that sound deadener showdown stuff with the mlv already on it. And most everything I buy is used. Tend to get some good deals.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk</p><p>[/QUOTE]</p>
[QUOTE="atoz2, post: 8520910, member: 662376"] [quote name='The Camry']Couple things, You should be VERY careful about low voltage on high powered applications. You can blow **** up quickly on a hot day. Your upgrade path should be focused on everything electrical to keep that voltage steady. When you can park and pound and not worry about voltage, then worry about getting louder/add speakers. As for getting louder, im sure you know this but doubling power and doubling cone area is the same 3 DB gain so your power constraints get real limited, real fast. [B]Have you considered building a wall?[/B] Keep in mind weight as you add things, leaf springs, shocks, ect become an issue. [USER=661255]@adulbrich[/USER] knows all about that. Cheapest route to getting loud for you right now should be focused on bracing the **** out of everything. CLD, thick mdf where you can fit it and expanding foam in every nook and cranny. The more rattles and panel flex your getting, the less acoustic energy your actually getting. Not that their cheap but GP Deadener seems to be some incredible stuff for spl crowds. [url=http://gpcaraudio.com/gp-stfu/]GP STFU SOUND DEADENER - gp car audio[/url] As for speakers, 6.5s can have less than a 5" inner diameter so they will fit into your hole with an adapter. Or you could just **** up the hole and glass 8s. [url=http://store.crescendoaudio.com/pwx-pro-midranges/]Speakers - PWX Pro Midranges - Crescendo Audio Factory Direct Online Store[/url] Great 6,8,10s ^ Have you played around with tuning at all? find your resonant freq and tune to that if you just want to be stupid loud without any musicality at all. Look into making an adjustable port. Im gonna stress this part. Make sure what you buy is future proofed because everything audio related loses 50% of its value the moment you open it. Subs ESPECIALLY because you can get free shipping on them but lose 1/4 of your profit from shipping them to someone else. Subs are hard A'F' to sell. so buy the biggest, baddest gear you can the first time.[/QUOTE] Yeah I'm pretty careful with my voltage. Always keep it in check. I have not found my resonant frequency. Only really tuned to 32 and 27 so far. What specific expanding foam is the one to use? I know great stuff but I've heard the big gap filler warps panels. And I never knew pwx were 5" inner diameter that's great. I have some sky high deadener comming, i'd like to do the doors and front roof with that sound deadener showdown stuff with the mlv already on it. And most everything I buy is used. Tend to get some good deals. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk [/QUOTE]
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