Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Join
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
6th order designs
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Buck" data-source="post: 8870092" data-attributes="member: 591582"><p>That's quite a bit of rear port area, I think it would probably work but you might unload quickly below tuning. With that power and size of the box/length of the panels, you need to brace a decent bit, especially in that large chamber with that layout. I would try to keep from U'ing the rear port, you can run 2 ports on either side of the sub and they don't have to exit at the face, you can run them up the side walls some into the front chamber, if you have port wall collision problems where it effectively extends the rear port length too much from getting to close to a wall.</p><p></p><p>With series 6th's, the front chamber helps dampen noise from the sub and rear port due to the pressure in the front being higher, so it can slow down air speeds or air doesn't expand as quickly exiting port vs dumping into cabin directly from small rear port, so you might be able to do 12-16in^2 per cube rear and help extend your lows down further while limiting the risks of over extension. Just openly thinking, like if you shrunk the surface area of the rear port and tuned a little lower, you can open up your layout options more, but too small rear port can cause excessive heat, which you're nowhere near with that rear port IMO.</p><p></p><p>You can make the rear box and port act somewhat like a sealed box, as in you can get away with a smaller rear port than normal, to some extent, but it's a nuanced thing that you'll have to decide on. I do think you can get away with less than 17.3 in^2/cube in the rear and it might be more musical, but I bet it'd work and be loud, just might unload more quickly. It's not an easy thing to learn how to discern these factors with series 6th's. Overall, if you've never done a series 6th before, that's an excellent start IMO. You'll get good in no time at these.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Buck, post: 8870092, member: 591582"] That's quite a bit of rear port area, I think it would probably work but you might unload quickly below tuning. With that power and size of the box/length of the panels, you need to brace a decent bit, especially in that large chamber with that layout. I would try to keep from U'ing the rear port, you can run 2 ports on either side of the sub and they don't have to exit at the face, you can run them up the side walls some into the front chamber, if you have port wall collision problems where it effectively extends the rear port length too much from getting to close to a wall. With series 6th's, the front chamber helps dampen noise from the sub and rear port due to the pressure in the front being higher, so it can slow down air speeds or air doesn't expand as quickly exiting port vs dumping into cabin directly from small rear port, so you might be able to do 12-16in^2 per cube rear and help extend your lows down further while limiting the risks of over extension. Just openly thinking, like if you shrunk the surface area of the rear port and tuned a little lower, you can open up your layout options more, but too small rear port can cause excessive heat, which you're nowhere near with that rear port IMO. You can make the rear box and port act somewhat like a sealed box, as in you can get away with a smaller rear port than normal, to some extent, but it's a nuanced thing that you'll have to decide on. I do think you can get away with less than 17.3 in^2/cube in the rear and it might be more musical, but I bet it'd work and be loud, just might unload more quickly. It's not an easy thing to learn how to discern these factors with series 6th's. Overall, if you've never done a series 6th before, that's an excellent start IMO. You'll get good in no time at these. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
6th order designs
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh