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Active vs. Passive: An attempt by me to explain
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<blockquote data-quote="ejschultz" data-source="post: 5956207" data-attributes="member: 603800"><p>i don't know much about the type r components, but i'm assuming they're 4 ohm. being 4 ohm and according to this thread, both the tweeter and the woofer would each be 4 ohm. the crossover divides the frequency so if you're putting 110 watts rms into them, both the tweeter and the woofer would be getting 110 watts rms. the woofers are going to be getting 110 watts of their frequency range determined by the crossover and likewise with the tweeter. in that case i'd assume you can put 110 rms into both the woofer and the tweeter as long as you have your active crossover set properly. if you lower the high pass for the tweeter, you're going to be lowering the power handling capabilities of it. if it's going to be set at the same frequency, you can give it the 110 watts rms, but this would defeat the purpose of going active. by changing the crossover points and changing the levels and time alignment of the seperate components, you can tune the speakers to better, hopefully perfectly build the sound stage of your car. going active isn't easy and it takes time, knowledge, and a good ear.</p><p></p><p>if anyone can add/correct/or just say it better, please do.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ejschultz, post: 5956207, member: 603800"] i don't know much about the type r components, but i'm assuming they're 4 ohm. being 4 ohm and according to this thread, both the tweeter and the woofer would each be 4 ohm. the crossover divides the frequency so if you're putting 110 watts rms into them, both the tweeter and the woofer would be getting 110 watts rms. the woofers are going to be getting 110 watts of their frequency range determined by the crossover and likewise with the tweeter. in that case i'd assume you can put 110 rms into both the woofer and the tweeter as long as you have your active crossover set properly. if you lower the high pass for the tweeter, you're going to be lowering the power handling capabilities of it. if it's going to be set at the same frequency, you can give it the 110 watts rms, but this would defeat the purpose of going active. by changing the crossover points and changing the levels and time alignment of the seperate components, you can tune the speakers to better, hopefully perfectly build the sound stage of your car. going active isn't easy and it takes time, knowledge, and a good ear. if anyone can add/correct/or just say it better, please do. [/QUOTE]
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Active vs. Passive: An attempt by me to explain
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