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Double 1/0 CCA vs Single 2/0 CCA vs Single 1/0 OFC
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<blockquote data-quote="HardofWhoring" data-source="post: 8843406" data-attributes="member: 674149"><p>2v preouts, and am I reading that right; the head unit puts out 29w with 10% THD</p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">DSP / Pre-Amplifier: Built-in Digital Signal Processor allows you to set precise equalization, signal delay, bass boost, and bass filter. Preset 9 EQ Modes, and 32 adjustable frequency bands (16 bands for front and 16 for rear). Built-in Max 4*49W BTL Amplifier with RMS 4*29W (Vcc=14.4v, THD=10%);</li> </ul><p>Please don't buy that head unit. You went decent on the amps, pretty good on the speakers, and that's a cheap ass head unit. I get it has a lot features, and nav, but it's the jack of all trade, and master of none kind of deal. KEEP in mind, you can always just get navigation on your phone, and connect your phone directly to the head unit, and use the head unit as a display. You can buy a really nice head unit for that price or less that doesn't have navigation itself, but still does navigation through your phone. </p><p></p><p></p><p>I'm using that same amp on my 2 sets of JL ZR components. We have a very similar setup so I know it will work good, but you might find a deal on here that changes your mind. </p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.woofersetc.com/sale.html#limit=20&mode=list&order=created_at&dir=desc&p=2[/URL]</p><p></p><p></p><p>The only thing I don't like is the 10ft run between batts. </p><p><strong>First</strong> that seems like a pretty short length from the engine bay to the trunk. It won't be a straight line, and there could be several extra feet or more to move around objects and fit through holes, just to get to the back to the front. Then if you are mounting on the other side of the vehicle. Not sure how you measured it, but you could run a long extension cord or string, and verify that length. </p><p><strong>Second:</strong> NOW I DON'T<strong> KNOW</strong>: but I THINK that 1/0 is going to be undersized for a 10ft run, and you might be even longer. I THINK that even a 2/0 run might be undersized. You could use a 1/0 for the big 3, but I think I would either run dual 1/0 or single 4/0 between batts. Or even 2/0 on the big 3. Dual 2/0 between batts, and separate 2/0 from second batt to each amp. You can go as big as you want with the wire, it just costs a little more, and takes up a little more space. For that you get less resistance, and a safer setup. I've never done a setup with that much power. Searching for numbers there is a huge variance, and I don't know how to put the equations into real world scenarios. Maybe someone that has done a larger setup like this knows how to figure it out.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="HardofWhoring, post: 8843406, member: 674149"] 2v preouts, and am I reading that right; the head unit puts out 29w with 10% THD [LIST] [*]DSP / Pre-Amplifier: Built-in Digital Signal Processor allows you to set precise equalization, signal delay, bass boost, and bass filter. Preset 9 EQ Modes, and 32 adjustable frequency bands (16 bands for front and 16 for rear). Built-in Max 4*49W BTL Amplifier with RMS 4*29W (Vcc=14.4v, THD=10%); [/LIST] Please don't buy that head unit. You went decent on the amps, pretty good on the speakers, and that's a cheap ass head unit. I get it has a lot features, and nav, but it's the jack of all trade, and master of none kind of deal. KEEP in mind, you can always just get navigation on your phone, and connect your phone directly to the head unit, and use the head unit as a display. You can buy a really nice head unit for that price or less that doesn't have navigation itself, but still does navigation through your phone. I'm using that same amp on my 2 sets of JL ZR components. We have a very similar setup so I know it will work good, but you might find a deal on here that changes your mind. [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.woofersetc.com/sale.html#limit=20&mode=list&order=created_at&dir=desc&p=2[/URL] The only thing I don't like is the 10ft run between batts. [B]First[/B] that seems like a pretty short length from the engine bay to the trunk. It won't be a straight line, and there could be several extra feet or more to move around objects and fit through holes, just to get to the back to the front. Then if you are mounting on the other side of the vehicle. Not sure how you measured it, but you could run a long extension cord or string, and verify that length. [B]Second:[/B] NOW I DON'T[B] KNOW[/B]: but I THINK that 1/0 is going to be undersized for a 10ft run, and you might be even longer. I THINK that even a 2/0 run might be undersized. You could use a 1/0 for the big 3, but I think I would either run dual 1/0 or single 4/0 between batts. Or even 2/0 on the big 3. Dual 2/0 between batts, and separate 2/0 from second batt to each amp. You can go as big as you want with the wire, it just costs a little more, and takes up a little more space. For that you get less resistance, and a safer setup. I've never done a setup with that much power. Searching for numbers there is a huge variance, and I don't know how to put the equations into real world scenarios. Maybe someone that has done a larger setup like this knows how to figure it out. [/QUOTE]
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Double 1/0 CCA vs Single 2/0 CCA vs Single 1/0 OFC
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