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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Is there some kind of basic guideline for watts to amperage?
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8615623" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>Thats the information you read on paper but when you go into a real world perspective, there's wayy too many other viarables they never even accounted for. Music is dynamic, you arent playing a 50hz sine wave at all times, there's peaks and dips and different levels of bass in the recording and they all affect your amplifier power output.</p><p></p><p>with a true 300 amp alt and some battery reserve, you can run an 8k wired at 1 ohm no problem. 8k at half ohm or lower would be a different story but you can either supplement with more alt or more batt power. More alts would mean you can keep 14 volts and up easier, more batt would mean you would settle for 12.6-12.8 volts. Two paths to do it, both will work and get you loud, the alt path can help you squeeze out a tiny bit more watts out of your amp if you can keep it 14 volts and up. However sometimes people cant fit more than 1 alt or that big of an alt thats why there's a battery reserve path.</p><p></p><p>Generally with electrical, i'd have all the gear in first, monitor your voltage and slowly go up with the volume knob to see how your car handle's the voltage drop then make additional electrical upgrades accordingly.</p><p></p><p>Buddy of mines has a jeep patriot stock alt on an FSD 2600(does rated power on the dyno) at 1 ohm with only the big 3 upgrade and agm under the hood and he manages a solid 13.2 volt drop at the lowest. Box rise is a real thing, you'll never see as much power as you think you see. Literally whatever amp you have, look at 2-4 ohm power ratings, thats what you'll actually see if you clamp it wired to 1 ohm. Couple that with music being dynamic, your actual power output while playing music is rather low. One of the big reasons why you see people throw 1500 watts to a 750 rms subwoofer with zero issues.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8615623, member: 650438"] Thats the information you read on paper but when you go into a real world perspective, there's wayy too many other viarables they never even accounted for. Music is dynamic, you arent playing a 50hz sine wave at all times, there's peaks and dips and different levels of bass in the recording and they all affect your amplifier power output. with a true 300 amp alt and some battery reserve, you can run an 8k wired at 1 ohm no problem. 8k at half ohm or lower would be a different story but you can either supplement with more alt or more batt power. More alts would mean you can keep 14 volts and up easier, more batt would mean you would settle for 12.6-12.8 volts. Two paths to do it, both will work and get you loud, the alt path can help you squeeze out a tiny bit more watts out of your amp if you can keep it 14 volts and up. However sometimes people cant fit more than 1 alt or that big of an alt thats why there's a battery reserve path. Generally with electrical, i'd have all the gear in first, monitor your voltage and slowly go up with the volume knob to see how your car handle's the voltage drop then make additional electrical upgrades accordingly. Buddy of mines has a jeep patriot stock alt on an FSD 2600(does rated power on the dyno) at 1 ohm with only the big 3 upgrade and agm under the hood and he manages a solid 13.2 volt drop at the lowest. Box rise is a real thing, you'll never see as much power as you think you see. Literally whatever amp you have, look at 2-4 ohm power ratings, thats what you'll actually see if you clamp it wired to 1 ohm. Couple that with music being dynamic, your actual power output while playing music is rather low. One of the big reasons why you see people throw 1500 watts to a 750 rms subwoofer with zero issues. [/QUOTE]
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Is there some kind of basic guideline for watts to amperage?
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