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Subwoofer not playing right
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8861154" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>I get it man. But I think your logic lacks foundation, that's what these forums are for - before you purchase. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /></p><p></p><p>First off, many subwoofer manufacturers make drivers that can work in either sealed or vented or both, a compromise. My Focal 33v2's say specifically, that these are for sealed enclosures. What decides all this is the elector-mechanical design of the driver itself. These determine certain characteristics, and specs that lean one way or the other with the outcome based on the enclosure expectation. IMHO, drivers that play both ways still actually favor one or the other or they are less effective at both. When you purchased the JL, you thought, hey, shallow sub, box for shallow subs, great! That's not how it works. JL designed, (as do all manufacturers) the sub to work in a shallow box - of 1.1 cubic feet per driver, not .5 as you may have in that box. Don't take this too personally, that's not on JL, it's on the buyer. They assume that you know the enclosure and the specifications of their woofer and what it needs to work correctly.</p><p></p><p>The Sakr drivers are most likely designed with that box in mind, then again, it's Skar, I would have to take a look. If it's utilizing woofers specifically designed for the box they put it in, then it would probably sound much better than what you have now, definitely.</p><p></p><p>All is not lost.</p><p></p><p>If we can get the actual dimensions, break it down into each side enclosing the woofer, so like ends are 14x14x6 for the sides and 1 14 x 30 x 2.5 or whatever that looks like or is for that middle the thickness of the wood, I can do the math if you're not familiar with it. Once we know the volume we are actually working with, we may be able to salvage the build after all.</p><p></p><p>A quick look at this shallow 10" JL sub would indicate that if just made new mounting plates on top, and put these in instead, they would probably put the 12s to shame!</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.crutchfield.com/S-MZWHUUNW6rI/p_13610TW3/JL-Audio-10TW3-D4.html?XVINQ=BP0&XVVER=R3E&awcr=76897285392688&awdv=c&awkw=shallow%20mount%20subwoofer%2010&awmt=e&awnw=s&awat=&awug=&msclkid=1c1a3786a4241d15a49552b742c8c06c[/URL]</p><p></p><p>That's just an example though, lets get the math done first.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8861154, member: 689267"] I get it man. But I think your logic lacks foundation, that's what these forums are for - before you purchase. ;) First off, many subwoofer manufacturers make drivers that can work in either sealed or vented or both, a compromise. My Focal 33v2's say specifically, that these are for sealed enclosures. What decides all this is the elector-mechanical design of the driver itself. These determine certain characteristics, and specs that lean one way or the other with the outcome based on the enclosure expectation. IMHO, drivers that play both ways still actually favor one or the other or they are less effective at both. When you purchased the JL, you thought, hey, shallow sub, box for shallow subs, great! That's not how it works. JL designed, (as do all manufacturers) the sub to work in a shallow box - of 1.1 cubic feet per driver, not .5 as you may have in that box. Don't take this too personally, that's not on JL, it's on the buyer. They assume that you know the enclosure and the specifications of their woofer and what it needs to work correctly. The Sakr drivers are most likely designed with that box in mind, then again, it's Skar, I would have to take a look. If it's utilizing woofers specifically designed for the box they put it in, then it would probably sound much better than what you have now, definitely. All is not lost. If we can get the actual dimensions, break it down into each side enclosing the woofer, so like ends are 14x14x6 for the sides and 1 14 x 30 x 2.5 or whatever that looks like or is for that middle the thickness of the wood, I can do the math if you're not familiar with it. Once we know the volume we are actually working with, we may be able to salvage the build after all. A quick look at this shallow 10" JL sub would indicate that if just made new mounting plates on top, and put these in instead, they would probably put the 12s to shame! [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.crutchfield.com/S-MZWHUUNW6rI/p_13610TW3/JL-Audio-10TW3-D4.html?XVINQ=BP0&XVVER=R3E&awcr=76897285392688&awdv=c&awkw=shallow%20mount%20subwoofer%2010&awmt=e&awnw=s&awat=&awug=&msclkid=1c1a3786a4241d15a49552b742c8c06c[/URL] That's just an example though, lets get the math done first. [/QUOTE]
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