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Taramps smart 5 going into protect
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8849026" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>The batteries are charged by the alt at a variable voltage/amperage rates depending on the type and RPM. The voltage is faily constant between 11-15V, depnding. You would need to consult the mfg to see what the current is at a given engine RPM for your alternator. Since it is fairly underpowered, it is working doubletime to keep up and may not be able to which also means that it will not last nearly as long as it normally would either.. I have asked a lot of these types of questions to a guy at Apex Alternaotrs, as I'm getting ready to order a 320 amp, small case, 6 phase hairpin(160-180 amps at idle) for $379. You could use one too or a 350 amp small case 6 phase hairpin $419, (200 amps at idle). What I was impressed by is the over the top support. Did'nt even ask but was givern advice on getting the next smaller belt due to the difference in the pully size which allows me to extract the most from the alt's performance. They don't assume I know what I'm talking about, they're the experts right? Feel free to email Nicholas Stark at <a href="mailto:apexalternators@gmail.com">apexalternators@gmail.com</a> for educated answers to your alt options/needs relative to your vehicle. Powdercoating is $35 additional cost in any color, and no, I don't get a referal fee! Anyhow, it points to the fact that alt's work differently depnding on the need/type/pully/load ect. I'm guessing that your two batteries are different too. L/a to AGM not a big deal except when charging them indivdually should you need. If you are running L/A with Lithium Ion's, then an isolater is a must! It's not a bad idea in any case as It's easy to install an isoslater between the two which prevents the primary from draining the secondary if that should occure. This just ensures that the 2nd one is always good to go (unless there is something wrong with that bat, sepcifically). In a pinch, you can bypass (jump the gap) on the isolater to jump-start the vehicle should that ever be the need and you don't have jumper cables handy. I'm not 100% sure about the "cycling" thing on this specific amp, usually protection circuits are just timed, the circuit gets cut (is opened) for a certain amount of time and when it closes again you are good to go. When it senses that the voltage is too low/high, it will activate. The high volume is where you would see this in your situation as the amp is not getting what it needs to operate at the higher volume level, this triggers the protection circuit, any change above or below a specific range of what it needs will trigger the protection circuit. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8849026, member: 689267"] The batteries are charged by the alt at a variable voltage/amperage rates depending on the type and RPM. The voltage is faily constant between 11-15V, depnding. You would need to consult the mfg to see what the current is at a given engine RPM for your alternator. Since it is fairly underpowered, it is working doubletime to keep up and may not be able to which also means that it will not last nearly as long as it normally would either.. I have asked a lot of these types of questions to a guy at Apex Alternaotrs, as I'm getting ready to order a 320 amp, small case, 6 phase hairpin(160-180 amps at idle) for $379. You could use one too or a 350 amp small case 6 phase hairpin $419, (200 amps at idle). What I was impressed by is the over the top support. Did'nt even ask but was givern advice on getting the next smaller belt due to the difference in the pully size which allows me to extract the most from the alt's performance. They don't assume I know what I'm talking about, they're the experts right? Feel free to email Nicholas Stark at [EMAIL]apexalternators@gmail.com[/EMAIL] for educated answers to your alt options/needs relative to your vehicle. Powdercoating is $35 additional cost in any color, and no, I don't get a referal fee! Anyhow, it points to the fact that alt's work differently depnding on the need/type/pully/load ect. I'm guessing that your two batteries are different too. L/a to AGM not a big deal except when charging them indivdually should you need. If you are running L/A with Lithium Ion's, then an isolater is a must! It's not a bad idea in any case as It's easy to install an isoslater between the two which prevents the primary from draining the secondary if that should occure. This just ensures that the 2nd one is always good to go (unless there is something wrong with that bat, sepcifically). In a pinch, you can bypass (jump the gap) on the isolater to jump-start the vehicle should that ever be the need and you don't have jumper cables handy. I'm not 100% sure about the "cycling" thing on this specific amp, usually protection circuits are just timed, the circuit gets cut (is opened) for a certain amount of time and when it closes again you are good to go. When it senses that the voltage is too low/high, it will activate. The high volume is where you would see this in your situation as the amp is not getting what it needs to operate at the higher volume level, this triggers the protection circuit, any change above or below a specific range of what it needs will trigger the protection circuit. :) [/QUOTE]
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