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Upgrading Audio System in 2024 Kia Sportage - Need Advice
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8869444" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p> <ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Which speakers should he consider buying, and what size is suitable for this car?</li> </ol><p>For that year and make, you have A pillar mounted tweeters (1”) and 6.5-6.75” door openings for component midbass or coaxial (bypasses the “A” pillar tweeters.</p><p>In the rear doors, 6.5”/6.75” openings</p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Is there any issue with installing non-original speakers concerning the multimedia screen and safety systems? I've heard about non-original speakers causing problems with the safety systems (the beeping sound stopped working).</li> </ol><p>Replacing the audio speakers <em><u>should</u></em> not negate any OEM functionality. That is dependant on how you end up wiring the head unit to the new components such as amplifiers and subwoofers. It can be done so none of that changes.</p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Does he need any external DSP? or is the car's multimedia screen sufficient?</li> </ol><p>DSP is different from just EQ-ing the system. Some factory head units allow for time alignment and some features found in DSP units but real aftermarket DSP setups require that you learn to analyze the signal (using a calibration mic and software) then have working knowledge of how to set everything up. It is a labor of love-hate for those that dive in and worth the time and money but generally speaking, adds a lot time effort and money to get done correctly. If you use an aftermarket (actual DSP) DSP unit, it will add $500 to a $1500 to the build. Moderate DSP EQ can be had when an amplifier is purchased that has it built in as a feature. And while the functionality is much more limited in budget scenarios, it can be incorporated into modest builds for slightly more than the basic system upgrade would cost.</p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">He consulted with a store, and they suggested that adding an amplifier alone would provide a significant improvement (without replacing the speakers). Is it advisable to do this?</li> </ol><p>External amplification makes it louder and more dynamic, no question. But, you are still just making the current sound louder and more dynamic not changing the sound per se, just making what is there louder. That is not something I would advise as it limits you in a big way as most factory speakers are designed to be efficient and not fond of added power. Kind of like running high octane fuel in a stock engine, no real benefit.</p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Will it harm the car warranty to make these audio system modifications?</li> </ol><p>Not if it is done correctly.</p><p></p><p>Minimum needs</p><p></p><p>OEM HU wiring harness that retains the functionality of the original head unit.</p><p>Wiring for electrical and speakers</p><p>6.5"-6.75" components (or coaxials if tweeters bypassed) for the front and same size/type coaxial versions of the front components/coaxials for the rear.</p><p>4 or 5 channels of amplification</p><p>A passive or powered sub (based on amplification decision/need)</p><p></p><p>Last, budget.</p><p></p><p>Once a budget is established then I and others here can advise on our preferences for whet will fit the need. It's good to know what types of music is prefered listening, bass heavy, loud or sound quality or both.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8869444, member: 689267"] [LIST=1] [*]Which speakers should he consider buying, and what size is suitable for this car? [/LIST] For that year and make, you have A pillar mounted tweeters (1”) and 6.5-6.75” door openings for component midbass or coaxial (bypasses the “A” pillar tweeters. In the rear doors, 6.5”/6.75” openings [LIST=1] [*]Is there any issue with installing non-original speakers concerning the multimedia screen and safety systems? I've heard about non-original speakers causing problems with the safety systems (the beeping sound stopped working). [/LIST] Replacing the audio speakers [I][U]should[/U][/I] not negate any OEM functionality. That is dependant on how you end up wiring the head unit to the new components such as amplifiers and subwoofers. It can be done so none of that changes. [LIST=1] [*]Does he need any external DSP? or is the car's multimedia screen sufficient? [/LIST] DSP is different from just EQ-ing the system. Some factory head units allow for time alignment and some features found in DSP units but real aftermarket DSP setups require that you learn to analyze the signal (using a calibration mic and software) then have working knowledge of how to set everything up. It is a labor of love-hate for those that dive in and worth the time and money but generally speaking, adds a lot time effort and money to get done correctly. If you use an aftermarket (actual DSP) DSP unit, it will add $500 to a $1500 to the build. Moderate DSP EQ can be had when an amplifier is purchased that has it built in as a feature. And while the functionality is much more limited in budget scenarios, it can be incorporated into modest builds for slightly more than the basic system upgrade would cost. [LIST=1] [*]He consulted with a store, and they suggested that adding an amplifier alone would provide a significant improvement (without replacing the speakers). Is it advisable to do this? [/LIST] External amplification makes it louder and more dynamic, no question. But, you are still just making the current sound louder and more dynamic not changing the sound per se, just making what is there louder. That is not something I would advise as it limits you in a big way as most factory speakers are designed to be efficient and not fond of added power. Kind of like running high octane fuel in a stock engine, no real benefit. [LIST=1] [*]Will it harm the car warranty to make these audio system modifications? [/LIST] Not if it is done correctly. Minimum needs OEM HU wiring harness that retains the functionality of the original head unit. Wiring for electrical and speakers 6.5"-6.75" components (or coaxials if tweeters bypassed) for the front and same size/type coaxial versions of the front components/coaxials for the rear. 4 or 5 channels of amplification A passive or powered sub (based on amplification decision/need) Last, budget. Once a budget is established then I and others here can advise on our preferences for whet will fit the need. It's good to know what types of music is prefered listening, bass heavy, loud or sound quality or both. [/QUOTE]
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