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Upgrading Audio System in 2024 Kia Sportage - Need Advice
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8869505" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>On those subs, get the most you can within the budget. Those tube style Pioneers and RFs are probably pretty decent. I've heard the bazookas, and for what you pay, pretty good decent. Just make sure you get one that isn;t amplified and use the Alpine for that duty.</p><p></p><p>As for the Morel, yes, the ones that you have picked out are in the lower echelons of what Morel offers, and on a par with other products in that range. If you go with the more expensive lines, be sure to find the ones that have the Acuflex coated tweeters, they are what differentiates Morels from the pack. As for rear fill, I never use a different brand, ore specifically, the tweeter material. Intruding a different driver in the rear introduces a different sound signature (timbre) and that is a distraction, not a compliment. The Morel Maximo Coax 6 would be the inexpensive go to in that case. Same tweeter material, inexpensive and from the same company. Cross them over around 100, good to go.</p><p></p><p>I think that the amplifiers that you have are fine and will do the job. If you want to add DSP, look at adding a Helix DSP mini, or the Dayton Audio DSP-408. A decent 4/6 - 4/8 channel in/out DSP amplifier is going to run you about the same or a lot more and your already have good amplification in the Alpine and the RF. Better to invest that amount in a really good DSP like the Helix. Keep in mind that the DSP selection opens up a whole new aspect to the build. It requires that you know how to use the DSP software, requires a calibration mic (if not included, (relatively inexpensive calibration microphones are $40-$100) to analyze the sound and then the ability to manipulate the software to achieve the sound goal - OR - pay a tidy sum to someone else to do the tuning for you (usually around $400-$600)</p><p></p><p>The other option would be to get a good HU for about that price, one that may have a scaled down DSP/time alignment function and will be of a higher fidelity that the HU you have. That would be the simpler option and one that most are more than happy with when everything is said and done. I'm not the go to on HUs, I'm an old school CD paying machine. I have yet to find a better sound than what a pioneer DEH 80/880prs or a DEX-99 can put out with there Burr-brown DACs via CD playback.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8869505, member: 689267"] On those subs, get the most you can within the budget. Those tube style Pioneers and RFs are probably pretty decent. I've heard the bazookas, and for what you pay, pretty good decent. Just make sure you get one that isn;t amplified and use the Alpine for that duty. As for the Morel, yes, the ones that you have picked out are in the lower echelons of what Morel offers, and on a par with other products in that range. If you go with the more expensive lines, be sure to find the ones that have the Acuflex coated tweeters, they are what differentiates Morels from the pack. As for rear fill, I never use a different brand, ore specifically, the tweeter material. Intruding a different driver in the rear introduces a different sound signature (timbre) and that is a distraction, not a compliment. The Morel Maximo Coax 6 would be the inexpensive go to in that case. Same tweeter material, inexpensive and from the same company. Cross them over around 100, good to go. I think that the amplifiers that you have are fine and will do the job. If you want to add DSP, look at adding a Helix DSP mini, or the Dayton Audio DSP-408. A decent 4/6 - 4/8 channel in/out DSP amplifier is going to run you about the same or a lot more and your already have good amplification in the Alpine and the RF. Better to invest that amount in a really good DSP like the Helix. Keep in mind that the DSP selection opens up a whole new aspect to the build. It requires that you know how to use the DSP software, requires a calibration mic (if not included, (relatively inexpensive calibration microphones are $40-$100) to analyze the sound and then the ability to manipulate the software to achieve the sound goal - OR - pay a tidy sum to someone else to do the tuning for you (usually around $400-$600) The other option would be to get a good HU for about that price, one that may have a scaled down DSP/time alignment function and will be of a higher fidelity that the HU you have. That would be the simpler option and one that most are more than happy with when everything is said and done. I'm not the go to on HUs, I'm an old school CD paying machine. I have yet to find a better sound than what a pioneer DEH 80/880prs or a DEX-99 can put out with there Burr-brown DACs via CD playback. [/QUOTE]
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