Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Join
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Wiring / mono amplifier 2 subwoofers / 4 channel amplifier bridged for 2 speakers
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="PatLap" data-source="post: 8871732" data-attributes="member: 690910"><p>WOW! You spent alot of time to guide me! Thanks! It's getting pretty interesting <img class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" alt="👍" title="👍" src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f44d.png" />. There's a few things that i need to clarify...</p><p></p><p>#1 DUAL VOICE COIL SUBWOOFER (2 Ohms + 2 Ohms) </p><p></p><p>In the specs of the MRP-M650 amplifier it says i would get 600W RMS at 2 Ohms (Continuous). I would really like to get 2 Ohms at the amplifier to get 600W instead of 400W at 4 Ohms. In the owner's manual for the subwoofers there's a sketch to wire it at 2 Ohms (explanation below). Because of the "bug" on the forum i can't send you a sketch so i will explain it the way it's mentionned in the user's manual and tell me if it's ok. </p><p></p><p>WIRING EXPLANATION :</p><p>***---Each subwoofer has 2 positive terminals and 2 negative terminals---.</p><p>*** Each subwoofer has a jumper cable (+ to -) inside the box. </p><p></p><p>From subwoofer "A" i take a wire from the 2nd (-) and wire it to the 2nd (-) of subwoofer "B" and from there i wire directly to the (-) terminal on the amp. Then, same thing for the other connection, from subwoofer "A" i take a wire from the 2nd (+) and wire it to the 2nd (+) of subwoofer B and from there i wire directly to the (+) terminal on the amp.</p><p></p><p>???What are the pros and cons if wired at 2 Ohms compared at 4 Ohms?</p><p></p><p>QUESTION #3</p><p>You wrote:</p><p>"I would not bother with a volt meter knob, get the 5 pin (Rj11 type) remote knob that came with the amp for best results".</p><p></p><p>***My amplifiers do not have a 5 pin (Rj11 type) or no other types of plug-insfor a bass knob so ill need a universal bass knob. That's why i was going tuse the PAC LC-1 bass knob that works with RCA'S input and output only. These are old amplifiers but they perform very well. </p><p></p><p>QUESTION #4</p><p>You wrote:</p><p>"Remote wire from the kicker LOC (daisy chained from one amp to the other) will turn the unit off and on".</p><p></p><p>***If i understand correctly, i take a remote wire from amplifier A to amplifier B and then a remote wire from amplifier B to the LOC remote wire. </p><p></p><p>***So, no need to take a remote wire from the LOC to the radio harness and "TAP" on the "remote antenna wire" or "ignition wire" so the amplifiers goes off when i turn off the car?</p><p></p><p>QUESTION #10</p><p>You wrote:</p><p>"6.5/6.75 is roughly the same overall basket size. One has a little larger cone but the frames are either or as fitment is concerned. Here are some decent budget comps I would recommend you consider (includes replacement tweeters) they are rated for the MRP F-200’s 100 x 2, bridged".</p><p></p><p>You gave me a good deal of choice, Thanks. You recommended kits with speakers and tweeters included. </p><p></p><p>***Just for my curiosity, suppose if someone would only replace the lower front speakers and would keep the factory tweeters that are located on the upper door... would the speakers and tweeters work anyway?</p><p></p><p>This is getting fun! <img class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" alt="😂" title="😂" src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f602.png" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="PatLap, post: 8871732, member: 690910"] WOW! You spent alot of time to guide me! Thanks! It's getting pretty interesting 👍. There's a few things that i need to clarify... #1 DUAL VOICE COIL SUBWOOFER (2 Ohms + 2 Ohms) In the specs of the MRP-M650 amplifier it says i would get 600W RMS at 2 Ohms (Continuous). I would really like to get 2 Ohms at the amplifier to get 600W instead of 400W at 4 Ohms. In the owner's manual for the subwoofers there's a sketch to wire it at 2 Ohms (explanation below). Because of the "bug" on the forum i can't send you a sketch so i will explain it the way it's mentionned in the user's manual and tell me if it's ok. WIRING EXPLANATION : ***---Each subwoofer has 2 positive terminals and 2 negative terminals---. *** Each subwoofer has a jumper cable (+ to -) inside the box. From subwoofer "A" i take a wire from the 2nd (-) and wire it to the 2nd (-) of subwoofer "B" and from there i wire directly to the (-) terminal on the amp. Then, same thing for the other connection, from subwoofer "A" i take a wire from the 2nd (+) and wire it to the 2nd (+) of subwoofer B and from there i wire directly to the (+) terminal on the amp. ???What are the pros and cons if wired at 2 Ohms compared at 4 Ohms? QUESTION #3 You wrote: "I would not bother with a volt meter knob, get the 5 pin (Rj11 type) remote knob that came with the amp for best results". ***My amplifiers do not have a 5 pin (Rj11 type) or no other types of plug-insfor a bass knob so ill need a universal bass knob. That's why i was going tuse the PAC LC-1 bass knob that works with RCA'S input and output only. These are old amplifiers but they perform very well. QUESTION #4 You wrote: "Remote wire from the kicker LOC (daisy chained from one amp to the other) will turn the unit off and on". ***If i understand correctly, i take a remote wire from amplifier A to amplifier B and then a remote wire from amplifier B to the LOC remote wire. ***So, no need to take a remote wire from the LOC to the radio harness and "TAP" on the "remote antenna wire" or "ignition wire" so the amplifiers goes off when i turn off the car? QUESTION #10 You wrote: "6.5/6.75 is roughly the same overall basket size. One has a little larger cone but the frames are either or as fitment is concerned. Here are some decent budget comps I would recommend you consider (includes replacement tweeters) they are rated for the MRP F-200’s 100 x 2, bridged". You gave me a good deal of choice, Thanks. You recommended kits with speakers and tweeters included. ***Just for my curiosity, suppose if someone would only replace the lower front speakers and would keep the factory tweeters that are located on the upper door... would the speakers and tweeters work anyway? This is getting fun! 😂 [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Wiring / mono amplifier 2 subwoofers / 4 channel amplifier bridged for 2 speakers
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh