Help with JBL speaker repair - refoam gone wrong?

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Hold tight, doing some research. Learning more about the 2007 Camry than I'll ever need to know...

Give me 30

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

This is the front assembly which changes things, speaker wise, for the better.



Looking for speakers, be back soon.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

BenH, check your messages.​

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Thanks.. do I have to differentiate between speaker wire or electrical wiring here? Or any 14 gauge wiring is fine?

Any 14 AWG. You could also splice with the longer wire and cut that loop in half. The last time I bought speakers, the wire was included.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

As for the wire, this 16 gauge is all you will need whether you are running complete runs from the amp or just splicing at the end near the speakers, 14 gauge is overkill and a lot more difficult to work with considering the original wire is likely 18 or 16 gauge to begin with. it's fairly inexpensive, it's pure copper and marked for polarity.


Amazon product ASIN B006LW0WDQ
I emailed a message to you. That same provo beast vid guy contradicts his original rear speaker install statements when shooting the the door install, making it all clear as mud. I've located his location and chat, will try to get confirmation on Monday as it is closed on the weekends. It's absolutely not clear whether the dividing networks is electronic or not. If it was, he would not use the caps in the tweeter set-up using the alpine supplied cap.

At the end of the day, it appears that you could get the adaptors he list and the alpine speakers. 2-way components up front (6x9 midbass in the door and tweeters in the dash as originally suggested using the supplied cap/coil inline dividing network (crossover)):

Amazon product ASIN B079G5X8K8
Amazon product ASIN B00IIC6CPE
Amazon product ASIN B01N2J8892
2-way coaxial in the rear:

Amazon product ASIN B079G46NV1
This would be the simplest resolution. You'll just de-solder the tweeter wire leads from the rear of the coaxials, run the rear tweeter wire to those tweeter input wires leads and the bass input wire leads to the midbass drivers and you're good!

This is the simplest option for sure and takes the guesswork out of the equation.

 

[BenH]

I emailed a message to you. That same provo beast vid guy contradicts his original rear speaker install statements when shooting the the door install, making it all clear as mud. I've located his location and chat, will try to get confirmation on Monday as it is closed on the weekends. It's absolutely not clear whether the dividing networks is electronic or not. If it was, he would not use the caps in the tweeter set-up using the alpine supplied cap.

How does he contradict himself? He installs coaxial 2-way in the sides, but in the prior video he explained that he was doing coaxial because he was replacing the JBL amp. Additionally, in the JBL system the front door speakers are only midrange speakers to start with, so it doesn't matter if he uses coaxial and only wires the 2 wires because that is all the door had to start. This is, I think, even confirmed in the comments:

???

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

This is, I think, even confirmed in the comments:

I was looking for a Camry JBL amplifier pinout, but for the life of me I could not find a single one that had separate rear speakers. Then it hit me; does your OEM tweeter have a capacitor in it?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Well, he says that you have to use the separate leads indicating the amp is used as the electronic crossover. Then he uses the inline crossover in the door installs, that's contradictory. One suggest electronic dividing networks (crossovers) in play, the other passive dividing (crossovers) in play. You don't use both for dividing frequencies between mid woofers and tweeters. Please, nobody bring up active/passive hybrid applications, they are not applicable here.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I was looking for a Camry JBL amplifier pinout, but for the life of me I could not find a single one that had separate rear speakers. Then it hit me; does your OEM tweeter have a capacitor in it?

Yeah, I looked for one too, no luck. Istill think that the leads are all full range, could be wrong but the info out there is all over the map, including all the wire adapters rolling the 2nd set of leads for coaxial installation. The only way to really tell is get out a bookshelf speaker and plug it into both wire leads. If there is no difference, they are all full range and the journey starts over again.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

The only way to really tell is get out a bookshelf speaker and plug it into both wire leads.

Yup. Speakers won't lie.

 

[BenH]

Well, he says that you have to use the separate leads indicating the amp is used as the electronic crossover. Then he uses the inline crossover in the door installs, that's contradictory. One suggest electronic dividing networks (crossovers) in play, the other passive dividing (crossovers) in play. You don't use both for dividing frequencies between mid woofers and tweeters. Please, nobody bring up active/passive hybrid applications, they are not applicable here.

it's starting to sound like Greek to me again - but I'll just stress that what is is doing is:
a) because he already replaced the JBL amp with a different one as he discussed in the first video. You can't view that video on its own, it is meant to part of a series on replacing the speakers.
b) he doesn't care if he only gets the one signal to the 2-way door speakers, because it was only a single speaker before so he will either get the same signal he did before (if he kept the amp and original setup), or if he replaced the amp then he would get the full signal it seems. I would take his clarification in the comment I linked above what he might have said in the video, since it was an answer to a very specific question.

Can you guys explain what you mean by trying a bookshelf speaker? I don't really have speakers lying around apart from my surround sound 5.1 speakers (and another older set of surround computer speakers). If honestly have no idea the specifics on them, but if it would disclose something for me to go out and try to touch some wires, or use a multimeter for some measurements or something let me know.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

If honestly have no idea the specifics on them, but if it would disclose something for me to go out and try to touch some wires, or use a multimeter for some measurements or something let me know.

The center channel speaker would be perfect for the test. You simply connect it to the wires for the 6x9 and hear if it plays the full audio spectrum. Do the same test with the tweeter wires. By full spectrum I mean bass and treble. If both wire sets play similar, then there is no need to use both wire sets.

 

[BenH]

The center channel speaker would be perfect for the test. You simply connect it to the wires for the 6x9 and hear if it plays the full audio spectrum. Do the same test with the tweeter wires. By full spectrum I mean bass and treble. If both wire sets play similar, then there is no need to use both wire sets.

Unfortunately this is my sound system:

Mirage MX 5.1

Home theater speaker system

www.crutchfield.com

I don't believe the center channel is different than any of the others, so not sure it would function for this test.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

I don't believe the center channel is different than any of the others, so not sure it would function for this test.

I guess what we really want to find out is if the tweeter's wires are pumping out bass. If they are, then it is safe to assume those wires are joined up the line somewhere after the amp. That would explain why Camry JBL amplifier pinouts show just one set of wires going to each rear.
Any of the satellites will do. They should be able to play enough bass to verify our hypothesis.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Ditto!

And if you can't really tell, switch back and forth between the tweeter and the midbass wires, if there isn't any difference then they are both full range output speaker wire leads.