Advice from people who know. Setting up a build

I personally say that you should opt and spend a tad more money and get the new 720 Pioneer Components.
And, if you have the means, upgrade to a 6.5". All you should need is a MDF spacer.
x2 on the 2nd part. I'd DEFINITELY go with the 6.5's over 5.25's, just take your time and do it right.

I've got my rsd's on 150x2 and they love it, you'll be fine

 
I have a Alpine MRD-F752. I bought it on Ebay many years ago but never had a build. It is a 5 Channel 1 Amp Solution. This thing has crazy power. Just to give you an idea it is rated at 75x4 @ 4 Ohms and 250x1 @ 4 Ohms. This is the actual ratings most of them put out!
outside4.jpg


Anyway. I bought a set of Infinity Kappa 6 x 9 for the back and a Infinity Kappa Perfect 5 1/4 component for the front. The 6 x 9 were 2 ohms but they were supposed to take 120 watts which is clearly right around the amp power (which is 100 watts @ 2 ohm spec - translate to maybe 120-125 watts). The front Perfects were 110 watts, which also was more than the amp was supposed to put out even with the fact that the amp powers more than its specs.

Needless to say this Amp TORE through all 4 speakers and blew a hole in the rubber of my Eclipse Aluminum 12" sub (although that was a mounting problem where the bass made the box jump and fall on its front)

I spoke too much, I realize also I might have to under power my amp so I do not blow my speakers in the future. (ugh and my gain was about 80% not full blast)

If you guys could help with recommendations for a front 5 1/4 component and a rear 6 x 9 or should I get the brackets and put rear 6 1/4 or go full 6 1/4 component. My price limit is approximately $400, unless persuaded //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Priceless...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
I have a Alpine MRD-F752. I bought it on Ebay many years ago but never had a build. It is a 5 Channel 1 Amp Solution. This thing has crazy power. Just to give you an idea it is rated at 75x4 @ 4 Ohms and 250x1 @ 4 Ohms. This is the actual ratings most of them put out!
outside4.jpg


Anyway. I bought a set of Infinity Kappa 6 x 9 for the back and a Infinity Kappa Perfect 5 1/4 component for the front. The 6 x 9 were 2 ohms but they were supposed to take 120 watts which is clearly right around the amp power (which is 100 watts @ 2 ohm spec - translate to maybe 120-125 watts). The front Perfects were 110 watts, which also was more than the amp was supposed to put out even with the fact that the amp powers more than its specs.

Needless to say this Amp TORE through all 4 speakers and blew a hole in the rubber of my Eclipse Aluminum 12" sub (although that was a mounting problem where the bass made the box jump and fall on its front)

I spoke too much, I realize also I might have to under power my amp so I do not blow my speakers in the future. (ugh and my gain was about 80% not full blast)

If you guys could help with recommendations for a front 5 1/4 component and a rear 6 x 9 or should I get the brackets and put rear 6 1/4 or go full 6 1/4 component. My price limit is approximately $400, unless persuaded //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
be careful with that much power you could blow the flux capacitor and those arnt cheap these days with oil prices. But make sure you run that will at least one cap at all times

 
be careful with that much power you could blow the flux capacitor and those arnt cheap these days with oil prices. But make sure you run that will at least one cap at all times
But its a Class T amp. Saves a lot of power and my lights never dim.

I have set my gains by ear and there was no distortion.

Basically I'm just asking for a what should I buy scenario of what you think with the power of that amp should I buy for as clear as that amp should get. And I can't switch the 5 1/4 to 6.5 i can switch my 6x9 to 6.5.

Again around $400 US is about my limit

 
Basically I'm just asking for a what should I buy scenario of what you think with the power of that amp should I buy for as clear as that amp should get.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif English!

I can vouch for the RSd's, but with $400 you can probably do better. If you're staying passive their are quite a few sets that should please. Nice amp BTW!

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif English!
I can vouch for the RSd's, but with $400 you can probably do better. If you're staying passive their are quite a few sets that should please. Nice amp BTW!
Lol that was a horrible sentence wasn't it. Hrm I guess I'm going to have to read on active and passive because I have no idea what that is. I'll write back in a bit.

 
Setting by ear works if u have a good ear and realize music is dynamic. If not u could already be clipping before ur ears recognize distortion and u stop the dial. That plus constant high volume equals kaboom. If u do it right u could connect a 150 watt amp to a 100 watt speaker and never have problems. Or u could just as easily blow a 110 watt speaker with an 80 watt amp.

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif English!
I can vouch for the RSd's, but with $400 you can probably do better. If you're staying passive their are quite a few sets that should please. Nice amp BTW!
Lol so what would you recommend; I can do 5.25 in the front and 6x9 in the rear or get a converter for a 6.5 rear. I have a 93 Coupe DeVille. The Rear deck speakers face up and are close to the roof. What I am thinking is that I should spend a bit for the front speakers and less for the rear. I think I will mostly be hearing the front and the rear is just for spacial purposes, kinda like surround sound speakers. Besides, being so close to head level for rear passengers, I don't want to kill people's ears.

I'm just guessing, I'm staying passive and maybe I can stay around the $300 mark which probably would be all the wiser.

Oh BTW I got to thinking. This idiot who hooked up my speakers buzzed em pretty bad when he was installing them, even though I told him I would do it. I always had problems from the beginning whenever I would turn up the volume. I figured I would just blow them out and get a new set. But man the Kappa perfects were very loud and clear //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
Stick with the boner Rsd's in front

and um... RE SR for sub?
You know what, People always say the first one is usually right.

How about I do RSD 5.25 in the front, 6.5 RSD in the rear and get the mounting bracket you think this would be fine?

The Coupe comes with a sealing enclosure around the rear speakers. Should I seal it up air tight or allow it to breath?

Also now since I'm saving cash I can get the sub 2! What is a RE SR?

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
http://reaudio.com/woofers.html#goto_sr
Just use stockers if you want rear fill, and I'd try to fit 6.5's up front if you could
I was gunna do rear fill because I thought I'd have to drop like 250-300 on the front till you told me about those RSD's

I wish I had enough door room... What would i do get a sawzall and cut it out? How much would I lose with the 5 1/4 installed? I think I'm gunna do 6.5 rear and try to aim it nice cause those RSD's are so cheap.

How should I run that woofer @ 4 ohms or do 2 ohms and power like 500 watts to it? I don't think I have to cause the eclipse I got now is running 8 ohms (dual 4 voice coils) and still punches nicely with the power it has, plus I get no rattle on the outside of the car. The trunk is huge too.

I'm gunna use a sealed box is that good?

Oh ya and my friend has a Jeep Grand Cherokee (its bad ass its got room for 2 component sets and a rear door set). Should he put his Woofer in a tube, bandpass, ported, or sealed box?

BTW I really appreciate everyones advice you and those stickies help really well and I'm learning a lot. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

How much do you guys think my amp is worth? I paid $380 USD for it used about 4 years ago.

 
I was gunna do rear fill because I thought I'd have to drop like 250-300 on the front till you told me about those RSD's
I wish I had enough door room... What would i do get a sawzall and cut it out? How much would I lose with the 5 1/4 installed? I think I'm gunna do 6.5 rear and try to aim it nice cause those RSD's are so cheap.
Take door panel off, look at hole where speaker goes in (in the metal door frame), if it's big enough (which it most likely will be), cut a piece of MDF to fit over that so it bolts to the door completely covering up the hole. Then (I'd wait till you get the rsd's first, so you get the cutout template) cut the hole for the rsd's in the mdf, and mount them in that.

I'd honestly say screw rear fill, these get plenty loud, hurts to turn them up all the way lol. And take the money you saved, and throw 3 or so layers of some good deadener on the front doors. Trust me, you'll need it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

How should I run that woofer @ 4 ohms or do 2 ohms and power like 500 watts to it? I don't think I have to cause the eclipse I got now is running 8 ohms (dual 4 voice coils) and still punches nicely with the power it has, plus I get no rattle on the outside of the car. The trunk is huge too.
It'd be a waste IMO to wire it at 8ohm (the re that is). Since your saving so much on the front, I'd honestly go with an RE SE (the step up from the sr's, which there's some in the classifieds for under $150), you'll like it much better //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif. Not sure if your amp would be one ohm stable on the sub channel, if so, get a d2 version of the se. If not (or not sure) get a d4, and wire it down to 2ohm. You'll love it. If it's too much (which it may be, but you'll get used to it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif), you can always adjust the gains accordingly (PLEASE set the gains with a dmm too, there's plenty of guides online on how to do this. Setting gains too high= clipping, meaning blown equipment)

I'm gunna use a sealed box is that good?
Not sure about the sr's, but the SE will sound great in a sealed or ported box. The music you mainly listen to will determine the type of box you will want. Typically, if you listen to rap and such music, you'll want a ported box tuned to about mid/lower 30's. If you listen to rock, techno, etc, a sealed box would be more appropriate. Don't hesitate to PM me if you want help with box idea's

Oh ya and my friend has a Jeep Grand Cherokee (its bad ass its got room for 2 component sets and a rear door set). Should he put his Woofer in a tube, bandpass, ported, or sealed box?
BTW I really appreciate everyones advice you and those stickies help really well and I'm learning a lot. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

How much do you guys think my amp is worth? I paid $380 USD for it used about 4 years ago.
Like I said, depends what you buddy listens to. I typically don't like bandpasses, as they take up too much room (compared to a sealed, or even a large ported box). Also, his equipment specs would be nice.

And no idea on pricing of that amp... sorry

 
Take door panel off, look at hole where speaker goes in (in the metal door frame), if it's big enough (which it most likely will be), cut a piece of MDF to fit over that so it bolts to the door completely covering up the hole. Then (I'd wait till you get the rsd's first, so you get the cutout template) cut the hole for the rsd's in the mdf, and mount them in that.
I'd honestly say screw rear fill, these get plenty loud, hurts to turn them up all the way lol. And take the money you saved, and throw 3 or so layers of some good deadener on the front doors. Trust me, you'll need it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

It'd be a waste IMO to wire it at 8ohm (the re that is). Since your saving so much on the front, I'd honestly go with an RE SE (the step up from the sr's, which there's some in the classifieds for under $150), you'll like it much better //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif. Not sure if your amp would be one ohm stable on the sub channel, if so, get a d2 version of the se. If not (or not sure) get a d4, and wire it down to 2ohm. You'll love it. If it's too much (which it may be, but you'll get used to it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif), you can always adjust the gains accordingly (PLEASE set the gains with a dmm too, there's plenty of guides online on how to do this. Setting gains too high= clipping, meaning blown equipment)

Not sure about the sr's, but the SE will sound great in a sealed or ported box. The music you mainly listen to will determine the type of box you will want. Typically, if you listen to rap and such music, you'll want a ported box tuned to about mid/lower 30's. If you listen to rock, techno, etc, a sealed box would be more appropriate. Don't hesitate to PM me if you want help with box idea's

Like I said, depends what you buddy listens to. I typically don't like bandpasses, as they take up too much room (compared to a sealed, or even a large ported box). Also, his equipment specs would be nice.

And no idea on pricing of that amp... sorry
Man thanks for the advice. BTW I love carnage myself.

I decided to get 2 RSD 6.5's front and back and fit them in. The speakers mount on a bracket in the front. I can mod the bracket and make it fit.. I hope. As to the back, I ordered a 6 1/2 to 6 x 9 adapter. I would go with the deadener, but this car isn't worth that sort of investment. When I buy a new car I will definitely take your advice.

I was looking at the RE SE. It looks perfect. Where are these classifieds where I can buy one? I live in the USA.

I have a box right now, but I do not know how to measure the size. It is sealed and I do have a large trunk. The bass pounded with my current setup.

As to my friend he listens to house/techno, Latin, and rap. I heard because he doesn't have a separate trunk (obviously cause its a truck) he should get bandpass or a bazooka and it will sound better. I do agree I hate bandpass, but I was wondering which would sound the best for him. Could he use sealed or ported to make it more space efficient?

I really appreciate all the help. Great advice!

 
Man thanks for the advice. BTW I love carnage myself.
I decided to get 2 RSD 6.5's front and back and fit them in. The speakers mount on a bracket in the front. I can mod the bracket and make it fit.. I hope. As to the back, I ordered a 6 1/2 to 6 x 9 adapter. I would go with the deadener, but this car isn't worth that sort of investment. When I buy a new car I will definitely take your advice.

I was looking at the RE SE. It looks perfect. Where are these classifieds where I can buy one? I live in the USA.

I have a box right now, but I do not know how to measure the size. It is sealed and I do have a large trunk. The bass pounded with my current setup.

As to my friend he listens to house/techno, Latin, and rap. I heard because he doesn't have a separate trunk (obviously cause its a truck) he should get bandpass or a bazooka and it will sound better. I do agree I hate bandpass, but I was wondering which would sound the best for him. Could he use sealed or ported to make it more space efficient?

I really appreciate all the help. Great advice!
How many bandpasses have you heard? Tuned how? What vehicle? Type of spk? S-Curve? Order? Port area? Location in vehicle? Location of the drivers?

Theres too many differences to say you do or dont like bandpasses. If one of the numbers above is changed, a bandpass box can go from a frog to prince.

 
How many bandpasses have you heard? Tuned how? What vehicle? Type of spk? S-Curve? Order? Port area? Location in vehicle? Location of the drivers?
Theres too many differences to say you do or dont like bandpasses. If one of the numbers above is changed, a bandpass box can go from a frog to prince.
Hrm. I guess my problem is I'm not experienced. I would love to learn all the nuances of sound, but I do not and I don't know any good resources. All I know is from my previous experiences. I had my first system professionally installed with a bandpass and I thought it sounded muddy. I junked it and bought a bazooka and it sounded much better.

Like in your sig, you say if ported always tune to CRF 33 hz. I barely have a clue what that means. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
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