Best tweeters for around $150max (opinions)

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So your door originally had the Ford mid tweeter combo and you replaced it out with the infinity speakers but the tweeters seem extremely and bright in the Infinity set ..an over powering brightness ..am I correct on this from what I’ve gathered ?
The hertz dt24s where brite, they long since have blown

To be clear

HU:Kenwood ddx 471

Amps:

Kenwood excelon 500.1 (sub)

Mtx thunder 75.4 (door co axis only no tweeter)

Mids/highs:

Hertz 24.3 tweeter to HU

Infinity kappa 62.9i front door

Infinity kappa 63.9i back door

Sub:

Hertz is 300.5d

 
The hertz dt24s where brite, they long since have blown

To be clear

HU:Kenwood ddx 471

Amps:

Kenwood excelon 500.1 (sub)

Mtx thunder 75.4 (door co axis only no tweeter)

Mids/highs:

Hertz 24.3 tweeter to HU

Infinity kappa 62.9i front door

Infinity kappa 63.9i back door

Sub:

Hertz is 300.5d
A pretty nice setup ..but an extra tweeter is gonna just brighten up the sound ..the infinity tweeter would still be playing ..you need a component set with a passive crossover where you could tone down the tweeter ..with the built in resistors ..Jeff would say run active and do away with your rear speakers completely and use the MTX amp to divide the power between the tweeters and the mids

 
A pretty nice setup ..but an extra tweeter is gonna just brighten up the sound ..the infinity tweeter would still be playing ..you need a component set with a passive crossover where you could tone down the tweeter ..with the built in resistors ..Jeff would say run active and do away with your rear speakers completely and use the MTX amp to divide the power between the tweeters and the mids
What active crossover would you recommend? Also what component/tweeter combo would you recommend for the 500 to 750 range?

 
Hmm I didn't think that would cause brightness just slight distortion. But in the door panel stock position of a 2012 ford focus sedan se. Do they make after market mounts? Or is anyone on here selling custom mounts?
here are the things that cause brightness and distortion,

-Poor 16 bit dac/poorly made head unit with zero ability to tune. Looked up your head unit, you dont have any means to tone down the 5khz to 8khz range which is mainly what the ear bleeding frequencies are at so that'll be your weakest link. Your head unit is not active capable either, your EQ is weak. Your ability to tune the setup is basically non existent so you are at the mercy of whatever speakers you buy.

- Tweeters positioned and angled improperly causing weird reflections which causes sibilance and distortion sometimes.

- Not enough amplifier power which leads to speaker break up at higher volumes which results in harshness and distorted sound. Which is exactly what's happening to your hertz tweeters right now

- Improperly crossed over mids and tweeters which do not work with your vehicle's acoustics.

- too many things playing the same frequencies. Like having tweeters along with a coaxial speaker like how your setup is... Thats bad business.

 
What active crossover would you recommend? Also what component/tweeter combo would you recommend for the 500 to 750 range?
I would chill out with the speaker changes and focus on your BIGGEST weakness right now which is the head unit. You need something with at least a 13 band EQ or keep your head unit and do a digital sound processor. The head unit will yield the biggest gain in sound quality when tuned right. Yours only have a 3 band EQ, completely useless.

 
here are the things that cause brightness and distortion,
-Poor 16 bit dac/poorly made head unit with zero ability to tune. Looked up your head unit, you dont have any means to tone down the 5khz to 8khz range which is mainly what the ear bleeding frequencies are at so that'll be your weakest link. Your head unit is not active capable either, your EQ is weak. Your ability to tune the setup is basically non existent so you are at the mercy of whatever speakers you buy.

- Tweeters positioned and angled improperly causing weird reflections which causes sibilance and distortion sometimes.

- Not enough amplifier power which leads to speaker break up at higher volumes. Which is exactly what's happening to your hertz tweeters right now

- Improperly crossed over mids and tweeters which do not work with your vehicle's acoustics.

- too many things playing the same frequencies. Like having tweeters along with a coaxial speaker like how your setup is... Thats bad business.
Ah I see,

Start hu

Then get components.

Any good cheaper end hu with good EQs or is there a way I can put a middle man in, and use it to tune the sound

 
Ah I see, Start hu

Then get components.

Any good cheaper end hu with good EQs or is there a way I can put a middle man in, and use it to tune the sound
There's a bunch of 200-350 dollar double dins from pioneer, jvc and kenwood that fit the bill. Just shop around. The middle man you are talking about is a DSP aka digital sound processor, prices range from 200-600 with most of everything good falling in the 600 dollar category. A new Sound quality based head unit is a lot cheaper.

 
There's a bunch of 200-350 dollar double dins from pioneer, jvc and kenwood that fit the bill. Just shop around. The middle man you are talking about is a DSP aka digital sound processor, prices range from 200-600 with most of everything good falling in the 600 dollar category. A new Sound quality based head unit is a lot cheaper.
I am not trying to be an annoying uneducated ****, but from what I have been looking at the biggest flaw in my hu is the eq. Hands down I think we both agree, I've been eye balling the audison bit ten for a while. Amazon has one sitting for prime at the 350 price point. The reason I do not want to buy a new hu is I am not willing to pawn my current, and do not have the know how, to sell it. If I went the bit 10 route would that give me the range and capability of a 80prs, if not what would I be missing. Thanks in advance for giving me your time.

 
I am not trying to be an annoying uneducated ****, but from what I have been looking at the biggest flaw in my hu is the eq. Hands down I think we both agree, I've been eye balling the audison bit ten for a while. Amazon has one sitting for prime at the 350 price point. The reason I do not want to buy a new hu is I am not willing to pawn my current, and do not have the know how, to sell it. If I went the bit 10 route would that give me the range and capability of a 80prs, if not what would I be missing. Thanks in advance for giving me your time.
bit ten would be perfect, It gives double the capability of an 80 prs. Thats why i said either a DSP or a new head unit. The head unit route would be cheaper and you'll be able to recoupe some money selling your head unit off craigslist, the dsp route would cost more but is superior in terms of tuning capability but you definitely need to invest 10+ hours to tune your setup because its a harder learning curve especially if you come from a 3 band EQ vs the typical 31 band EQ that DSPs provide, literally 10x more EQ bands.

 
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