big 3 done half ***?

If you can easily get to your alt just put it on mounting bracket. The purpose of grounding the engine block is to ground the alternator chassis.

 
I dont get that though I already had the ground from the bat to the frame though on a good spot so why would i need to ground it again?someone please explain

 
You're grounding the engine to the chassis.. think of it as a circle. Alt to batt. Batt to chassis. Chassis to alt.

 

---------- Post added at 09:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:21 PM ----------

 

dont usually go from neg batt to frame.. its alt to pos. , batt neg. to engine block, engine block to frame
Hah I swear i didn't copy you. :p

 
Lmao. Then you wasted your time...
WRONG! , because if you were using 1/0 to your amps + , and grounding to frame , and your factory chassis ground used to be 8 gauge , you have essentially helped current flow to your amp by upping it's ground connection to the battery to 1/0 instead of 8 gauge.
 
dont usually go from neg batt to frame.. its alt to pos. , batt neg. to engine block, engine block to frame
I would disagree with that. Much of what I work on is battery neg to block and battery neg to frame.

But either way, the real reason to ground the block separate from the frame is that the engine sits in rubber mounts in the front and transmission mounts which are also rubber in the rear (on rear wheel drive cars) and sideways on front wheel drive. The rubber is used to isolate the engine vibrations from the frame (and therefore the seat in the cabin), so it needs to be wired as it is not directly connected electrically (so the alt has no ground as was said).

 
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