Couple questions about heads...

[BDIDDY 10+ year member]

unless you plan to build a bigegr cube engine over 400 cubes, 180cc to 200c runners would be beter suited..you want the head and cam to work together..with 215cc runner, you'll want steep gears, bigger cam, more compression and converter.

So I will need to go a step down from those heads...

I don't want too much compression but enough to get me some power, because I know with more compression the higher the grade gas you have to use...

Me and my dad were talking and he has a 400 engine, I think I will take the crank out of it and build a stroker. He was saying if we can find a nice 350 with low mileage then we wouldnt bore it out because that is labor intensive, just get it honed. The crank and such would be balanced, he says it saves the bearing and such. My dad also said that the strokers had bearing problems, something about throwing them out or something. Any cons to the stroker motor?

How many horses do you think a 383 will make with the iron eagle heads, carb, intake, and headers?

Anything you can do for torque or does that come with horse power?

Thanks for the help.......

 

[Polecat 5,000+ posts]

if the 400 is in good shape, and a 509 or 511 casting, by all means, use it. Unless it's been punched over .40 already. I wouldn't use one over .40. The simeased cylinders are too close at .60 over.

But, if you have a fresh 350, stock bore...have it bored .30 over...and hone the block. A machine shop will do all of that...but here's the deal..if you use a 400 crank in a 350, you have several options...but don't forget, you need the flywheel and damper off that 400...because they are externally balanced.

Now, you can use either 5.7" 350 rods or 5.565" 400 rods...you'll need to order pistons accordingly to match the rods you use.

But for what it cost to have that 400 crank turned, you can by a cheap inexpensice rotating assembly which comes with everything you'll need from like Summit Racing.

But I had two 383's...

one was 11:1 and the other was 10:1.

But you can do like I did...had a 350, and got a rotating assembly from Speed-O-Motive.

Had it double checked, and balanced.

350 bored .030 over.

Slid the rotating assembly in there, and added the World Products Sportsman II's. They were 64cc combustion chambers, 200 cc runners, and a Comp XE274 cam. Edelbrock RPM intake, Holley #4779 750 DP carb, HEI and MSD box. Now with this cam you'll need a 2500 ish stall, and decent gears like 3.55 or 3.73.

That will make a screamer! My 4200 lb truck ran 13.40's with that combo and drove it daily.

Now if you want less gears and stall, keep compression around 9.5:1 and use the Comp XE268 cam. Better 'street' cam....

 

[TrlcKed_OuT 10+ year member]

do u have everything or u just starting the motor... try lik jr motorsports amd look at some of their motor kits....

 

[BDIDDY 10+ year member]

if the 400 is in good shape, and a 509 or 511 casting, by all means, use it. Unless it's been punched over .40 already. I wouldn't use one over .40. The simeased cylinders are too close at .60 over.But, if you have a fresh 350, stock bore...have it bored .30 over...and hone the block. A machine shop will do all of that...but here's the deal..if you use a 400 crank in a 350, you have several options...but don't forget, you need the flywheel and damper off that 400...because they are externally balanced.

Now, you can use either 5.7" 350 rods or 5.565" 400 rods...you'll need to order pistons accordingly to match the rods you use.

But for what it cost to have that 400 crank turned, you can by a cheap inexpensice rotating assembly which comes with everything you'll need from like Summit Racing.

But I had two 383's...

one was 11:1 and the other was 10:1.

But you can do like I did...had a 350, and got a rotating assembly from Speed-O-Motive.

Had it double checked, and balanced.

350 bored .030 over.

Slid the rotating assembly in there, and added the World Products Sportsman II's. They were 64cc combustion chambers, 200 cc runners, and a Comp XE274 cam. Edelbrock RPM intake, Holley #4779 750 DP carb, HEI and MSD box. Now with this cam you'll need a 2500 ish stall, and decent gears like 3.55 or 3.73.

That will make a screamer! My 4200 lb truck ran 13.40's with that combo and drove it daily.

Now if you want less gears and stall, keep compression around 9.5:1 and use the Comp XE268 cam. Better 'street' cam....

Alright thanks for the info. I aint building it right now, I am just trying to get my knowledge up on this stuff. I think if I did do it I would go with the 350 rods just a tad bit bigger, and use those iron eagle heads. Then I will need to match a cam, intake, and carb. I want that real lopy idle. That idle that sounds like the car isnt even running right...

I think I will try 4.11 gears, even though someone told me it eats up the gas really bad. Me getting that engine bored .030 over will run some money though won't it? The stall youre talking about is when the wheels spin right? Like you can give it gas until it hits 2500 then it spins, right?

What about these heads, they are a step down from those I mentioned above, same website though. It says chamber, 64 or 72 what does that mean? Do you think these will work? Also did you have any problems out of your stroker engine?

DRTIRON200

200cc

64 or 72

2.02/1.60

1.250single

angle or straight

$449

Again thanks...

 

[Polecat 5,000+ posts]

64cc and 72cc is all about how much compression you'll need, as well as cam, and lobe seperation....

asfar as having a complete block done, look to spend $400-$500 on a good job....maybe less since you don't need the crank turned and balanced.

Those heads are perfect...my 406 has 6" rods, and JE forged pistons...

 

[BDIDDY 10+ year member]

64cc and 72cc is all about how much compression you'll need, as well as cam, and lobe seperation....asfar as having a complete block done, look to spend $400-$500 on a good job....maybe less since you don't need the crank turned and balanced.

Those heads are perfect...my 406 has 6" rods, and JE forged pistons...

I got to looking at those kits you were talking about and I guess I need to go with the budget 350 kit. It's about 500, has crank, and pistons and all. I might have to see about boring it out, just have to talk to my dad. No replacement for displacement is what I heard... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Now what about headers? My friend has a 89 chevy truck and is looking into to putting headers on it. Any certain brand or type he should get?

As far as I go, what type should I use..? I heard long tube were nice, but there is a post on here that says with some headers you don't even make power...?...

Thanks..

 

[Polecat 5,000+ posts]

you will make more power, no doubt about it...Hedman makes some good ones, as well as dynomax...get 1 5/8" headers...full tube, 3" collectors.

A 355 (350 bored .030) will make some serious power....you also have to consider notching the block and rods for a 383 in a 350 block...so a 355 may be a better choice...still use the XE268 or XE274 cam, keep compression around 9.5:1.

 

[Polecat 5,000+ posts]

here's a good simple combo

Displacement: 350 cu. in.

Carburetor: Holley 750 double-pumper

Heads: GM L31 Vortecs, pocket-ported, with 1.94/1.50 in. valves

Intake: Edelbrock Performer RPM Vortec

Camshaft: Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 268 hydraulic, with 0.478/0.480 in. of lift and 224/230° of duration @ 0.050 in. of lift.

Exhaust: Hedman 1 5/8 in. headers and Borla XR-1 mufflers

Distributor: HEI

Comp. Ratio: 9.4:1

MAX HP: 409 @ 6000

MAX Torque: 427 @ 3500

you can order the heads ready for the larger lift cam from GM.

 

[BDIDDY 10+ year member]

you will make more power, no doubt about it...Hedman makes some good ones, as well as dynomax...get 1 5/8" headers...full tube, 3" collectors.A 355 (350 bored .030) will make some serious power....you also have to consider notching the block and rods for a 383 in a 350 block...so a 355 may be a better choice...still use the XE268 or XE274 cam, keep compression around 9.5:1.

So it would either be bore it out or get the block and rods notched? 9.5:1 is a pretty good compression ratio, right? I could still run on mid to premium gas?

That 350 combo you posted made alot of power, suprised it made that much... But I think that if I ordered those heads from GM they would run me a decent amount of coin...do you think so?

Sorry about me pestering you....but again thanks..

 

[Polecat 5,000+ posts]

if you make either a 355 or 383, you'll need the stock 350 bored .030 over....just the 383 will need to be notched to make clearance for the longer stroke.

Those heads can be found at

here for $388 each....good price, even cheaper than the Dart.

Look at part number SD8060AGP.

 

[BDIDDY 10+ year member]

if you make either a 355 or 383, you'll need the stock 350 bored .030 over....just the 383 will need to be notched to make clearance for the longer stroke.Those heads can be found at

here for $388 each....good price, even cheaper than the Dart.

Look at part number SD8060AGP.

Not sure what engine I am gonna do up...not really even close to building one, I just wanted to get my info up and get into what products are good and which ones are bad. Those heads sound really nice, but what about that intake that it comes with? Good or should I trash it?

Well I think I'm about out of questions, thanks for ALL of the help...

Take it easy..

 

[Polecat 5,000+ posts]

if you use the Vortec heads, you'll need that intake...different pattern that the older regular intakes...

 

[BDIDDY 10+ year member]

if you use the Vortec heads, you'll need that intake...different pattern that the older regular intakes...

My dad talked to a machine shop and they recommended getting a vortec 350 engine and working with that. Rebuilding it, with the aftermarket cam, intake, carb..etc... They said it would put out around 400 without boring it out or anything.

Once I get some more info on what he knows I'll see what you think..

 

[Polecat 5,000+ posts]

cool...just give me a shout. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[BDIDDY 10+ year member]

cool...just give me a shout. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

The manchine shop said that from 96 (?) on up is when the vortec engine was started. You can put vortec heads on a newer model block but you can't put vortec heads on a older model block. Because there are different water passages and such. All they have to do is a little head work and I have to get a special intake. There is something about the fuel injected vortec's that you need a special intake to fit it on there. So I will have to make a package of the cam, intake, and carb that I would need.

They said that it would put out around 400-410 horses...