Curious about mid-bass application.

[mlo 10+ year member]

I would do exactly that - bridge the arc, deaden the living crap out of your front doors. Sell the rears to fund the beefiest front speakers you can afford. JL subs generally sound great. In your position I would probably go with 2 JL 10w6's sealed, though to be honest I prefer the rainbow vanadium 12's over the JL 12W6's, so really i'd probably try a pair of vanadium 10's sealed. Either one, though, i'd want to be pushing ~500w per sub, so if you stick with the 300.2, 1 sub is where it's at.
Where are you located, and who is doing your install?

Paying someone to perform services is always a risk. What goes on behind your back and in this case behind the door panels is an enticing place to take the easy way out for those looking for one. Especially when I did not spec the job to every detail. The shop I chose knows better, I am convinced. Thier own stuff is impeccable.

I did not go looking for a sub particularly. After being quite dissapointed with the outcome of the installs performance the installer kept pushing me there to create in his eyes "the fullness" I desired. My biggest criteria for any sub was that the integration be stealthy and look oem. I think I am convinced that if a sub is truly needed the console variety would suit my design taste.

The installing shop was CSL auto electronics Inc. I'm near Seattle Wa.

I was thinking of using a 300.2 for the BA componenets. And the already owned 300.4 for the rear coaxials and sub. Though really the plan is evolving here.

Thanks to everyone for your time.

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

I didn't read everything but there's a good thread on Diyma about having extra midbass behind you and it can workout if you do things properly. I'm currently using a 9887, 4 2" fullrange drivers in the a-pillars, 8's in the doors, and 3 12's ported that will be changing to 1 12" sealed. I'm changing everything up and will be trying out a pointsource set of comps in my kickpanels w/ passive xovers (300wrms to each set), I'm keeping the dayton 8's in the doors (300wrms to each), and shortly I will also install dayton 7's in the rear doors with about 150wrms to each. Apparently you want to give the front midbass a lot more power so you're not bringing the midbass to the back. I'm not sure how much more processing you'd need to really keep the midbass up front but I'm planning on looping the rca's from one midbass amp to the other and using the t/a to get it as up front as possible although it will be affecting each set of midbass differently. I have my front doors deadened pretty solid and my rear doors will also be very deadened because I think it's already been posted but rattles and vibrations will cause more localizations of the midbass frequencies.

 

[hanzuozuo1984 10+ year member]

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[HCCA 10+ year member]

****! I hate to say it, but that's some lazy ass ****. Putting deadening only on the inside of the inside door panels is just cutting corners. I would guess that they just didn't bother because they didn't want to clean the exterior door skins with acetone, and maneuvering the deadening through the holes in the inside door panel can be a little tricky.
At retail prices, a door kit, ~12sqfoot is ~40$. I used 2 of those plus a bulk pack plus about 60-80sq foot of RAAMat for my trunk and doors. I only put ~2sq foot in each of the rear doors because no speakers were mounted in them. For 300$ i would expect to be paying for the matierals and and installation of a bulk pack (~140$ at retail cost) correctly in my doors. That'd be ~18fq foot total per per door and should be good to go. I'd probably want an additional trunk kit installed too. With that much deadening, large portions of the plastic door panels and metal door skins would be covered with overlapping deadening or double layered. The trunk and 2 doors PROPERLY deadened shouldn't be a >500$ proposition, especially considering you could pick up an entire 62.5 sq. ft. roll of raamat for ~120$ and install it yourself in 4-5 hours.

I used Second Skin Damplifier Pro, and I think it cost me $700 to do the ENTIRE vehicle (minus the roof), two layers in all four doors. Three layers on the wheel wells. PLUS Luxury Liner Pro, on the entire floor. Plus Overkill Pro in the doors. That cost was also including 6 cans of adhesive spray. That was my cost to install it myself.

 

[mlo 10+ year member]

Thanks for the specifics HCCA...That is where I am at right now. Trying to educate myself on quality deadening products and there correct application/location.

After doing some searching I am thinking I may want do an amp upgrade at the same time the BA Pro's go in. I really like the simplicity of having one capeable amp to supply the front components and the very likely addition of a stealthbox sub. The Pioneer sub and amp I was using is gone and I am sure If I wanted to, I could find a home for the Arc300.4. Thoughts...

If anyone knows of a great deal on a gray JL stealthbox console please pm me.