Does rear speakers improves driver audio experience?

The most important thing to remember when adding rear fill is to use the same tweeter. Tweeters have a distinct timbre and when different than the front, will definitely draw you backwards away from the front stage, even at low volume.

Many lines of comps offer coaxial models with the same tweeters as their component brethren that can be used for the rear fill. All things considered, try and always use the same tweeters in the rear as you do in the front. It's the same reason you will find the same consideration/recommendation for home theater surround systems, changes in timbre impart directionals that you don't want
I don't recommend tweeters in the rear at all just midbass drivers crossed to play no higher than 2500hz
 
I don't recommend tweeters in the rear at all just midbass drivers crossed to play no higher than 2500hz
That is an option for true "fill", differential fill, etc. My point was if you're going to run full range in the rear for fill, then match, at the very least, the tweeters. Cone/dome materials next and cone size last. If the coaxial/matching full range is there and you have the option to tune it with a narrow bandpass to see if that is preferable, at least the matching drivers are in play, that's okay too.

It's a matter of personal preference and some simply like all the corners playing. Understanding staging without a true experience of why that might be preferable is again subjective and a learned preference. Personally, I enjoy both and tune for 3 difference listening environments. Single seat, double occupancy and a full car. Many don't have that option an opt for full front and rear.

You can certainly make the case for a good wideband in the rear instead of a coaxial. Still depends on the goal or want of the primary listener/owner.
 
I would also add that staging is heavily impacted by a noisy car. If you haven't spent a significant amount of time and $$ investing in a quiet-er ride, then the whole front stage argument kind of becomes much less significant, For some it's enough just to overcome the road noise and more speakers will definitely help with that.
 
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i agree i agree i will be running a pretty mild setup just 2 skar 12s at 1200w and the 4 6.5s still not sure abt fronts. i eventually wil b upgrading the alt and running more power but not a 2nd amp. what you recommend for the fronts?
That's pretty subjective. I prefer speakers that lean more toward "hifi" vs "pro-audio." Morel, Dyn, Hertz...
 
That is an option for true "fill", differential fill, etc. My point was if you're going to run full range in the rear for fill, then match, at the very least, the tweeters. Cone/dome materials next and cone size last. If the coaxial/matching full range is there and you have the option to tune it with a narrow bandpass to see if that is preferable, at least the matching drivers are in play, that's okay too.

It's a matter of personal preference and some simply like all the corners playing. Understanding staging without a true experience of why that might be preferable is again subjective and a learned preference. Personally, I enjoy both and tune for 3 difference listening environments. Single seat, double occupancy and a full car. Many don't have that option an opt for full front and rear.

You can certainly make the case for a good wideband in the rear instead of a coaxial. Still depends on the goal or want of the primary listener/owner.
I enjoy rear fill as well. The experiencing is worth the efforts. Doesnt take much to fill that void that always seems to be missing for that surround sound effect imho for the whole vehicle listening.
 
I enjoy rear fill as well. The experiencing is worth the efforts. Doesnt take much to fill that void that always seems to be missing for that surround sound effect imho for the whole vehicle listening.
A front sub brings the bass up front for that all around you feeling 🥰
 
Must have one helluva high crossover point on your subs.
Not likely my subs are 20-80, front sub is 50-150, midbass is 60-450. Lots of overlap. Long as it's in phase it doesn't really matter. The whole point is to bolster that upper bass lower midbass region where the main subs fall off and door speakers don't really pick up due to being so small or room nulls

It's really a different experience that changes the whole dynamic of the sound inside the car
 
Not likely my subs are 20-80, front sub is 50-150, midbass is 60-450. Lots of overlap. Long as it's in phase it doesn't really matter. The whole point is to bolster that upper bass lower midbass region where the main subs fall off and door speakers don't really pick up due to being so small or room nulls

It's really a different experience that changes the whole dynamic of the sound inside the car
I'm running my subs with no ssf to 60hz...the front sub is at 50-150hz now, and my mids pick up at 120hz
 
Not likely my subs are 20-80, front sub is 50-150, midbass is 60-450. Lots of overlap. Long as it's in phase it doesn't really matter. The whole point is to bolster that upper bass lower midbass region where the main subs fall off and door speakers don't really pick up due to being so small or room nulls

It's really a different experience that changes the whole dynamic of the sound inside the car
Gotcha. I meant being able to localize the subs. I find the crossover point has to be impractically high to be able to tell where they are, unless they are causing something nearby them to vibrate audibly.
 
Gotcha. I meant being able to localize the subs. I find the crossover point has to be impractically high to be able to tell where they are, unless they are causing something nearby them to vibrate audibly.
They disappear easily at low volume but for us that like a 20db bottom bump into the curve they easily localize. The front sub makes them disappear much better even at higher volume. Plus I'm in a truck so the subs are fairly close and shake the floor and seats so you feel where they are
 
They disappear easily at low volume but for us that like a 20db bottom bump into the curve they easily localize. The front sub makes them disappear much better even at higher volume. Plus I'm in a truck so the subs are fairly close and shake the floor and seats so you feel where they are
I have a pair of Dayton 10s I would like to incorporate for my next front stage prob under my seats. I think it will be quite beneficial along with some 6.5s in the kick panels
 
It also depends on your car. I find that big cars tend to sound "hollow" without rear fill. I drive big 4-dr sedans and a pair of 6X9's in the rear deck running on HU power can add volume and midbass. I'll second not having tweeters though.

Speakers in the rear doors do nothing for the driver. The OP hasn't said what he drives.
 
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