EricN CX-7 Build Log

[ericnord 10+ year member]

Hey everyone,

With Doitor's guidance and extreme patience on my side I've decided to do a CX-7 install. I'll be posting pics along the way and need a lot of help since this is my first custom install.

System as currently planned:

1. Legatia L1 in pillars powered by Alpine MVR-T420 (110x2)

2. Legatia L6 in doors powered by JL 300/4 (150x2) - don't have this amp yet so open to suggestions

3. Elemental Designs 13aV.2 powered by ED Nine.1 (1200x1)

3. Alpine CDA-9886 w/ iPod cable and AiNet run to processor

4. PXA-H100

I took advantage of my day off to start removing pieces so once my RAAMmAT BXT arrives I will be ready. I just bought one roll along w/ 3 yards of Ensolite, but not sure if that will be enough. I also have some extra Dynamat and ED that I can use as well.

first pic is the exposed dash. It was pretty easy to remove. I'll use an American Int'l dash kit and wiring harness. (notice the screws on either side of the console panels up under the AC controls. These require a Z screw driver that I need to buy so that is why the console isn't out yet.

Pic of the American Int'l wiring harness plugged in. I will TechFlex the wiring once it arrives along w/ heat shrink the solder jobs:

These are the four wires on the wiring harness that I'm not sure what to do with. Please help!

Here is pic of passenger side kick panel area. I'm not sure how to pass speaker wire to the doors, so any advice would be great.

Here is a pic of the rear cargo area w/ backseats removed. I plan to do a false floor for the amps that will need to hinge so I can access the spare. This will need a lot of planning still. Notice I left the rear side paneling in cuz I was gonna try and find a way to snake the 0 gauge down the driver side, speaker down the pass side and run them behind that paneling since it looks like a pain to remove. Think I'll just **** it up and remove it later this afternoon when I do the console so I can RAAMmat more.

Next steps for the coming week:

1. Remove console and rear sides today

2. Install dash kit today

3. Remove driver/pass seats when RAAMmat arrives next week and do the floor of the vehicle.

4. Run 0-gauge power and do Big 3 when cabling arrives next week

5. Install HU when AiNet cable arrives next week

Thanks for any help!

Click to read more...

 

[ericnord 10+ year member]

Here is a shot of the rear w/ the console and side panels removed. This is about as much as I can do and still have it drivable until the RAAMmat comes. Then I'll remove both front seats and the carpet. Didn't do the HU cuz I couldn't find the hex screws needed to replace factory phillips.

 

[ericnord 10+ year member]

Yesterday's update:

Chalk this one up to "Nothing can ever be easy". When ISO mounting the 9886 the supplied screws from both Alpine and kit company weren't long enough. You can see from the picture that the screw won't even make it through the kit spacer to the HU. Going to HomeDepot during lunch to see if they have some M5x13mm.

 

[ericnord 10+ year member]

Another small update, mainly just waiting for a majority of my gear to get here tomorrow. I was able to get some M5x12mm screws from HomeDepot that did the trick so the ISO mount is complete along w/ the hazard switch.

Where do I get a backstrap?

 

[ericnord 10+ year member]

Got home today and a lot of my goodies had arrived.

Elemental Designs 13aV2 sealed enclosure (I ordered the pack of 1/4" hex bolts and T-nuts from PartsExpress to install, but how do I get the T-nuts in since the box is already built?):

H100 processor, 14 gauge speaker wire, ton of 0 gauge rings for big 3, 8 gauge power for HU, and 4 gauge power/ground for amps:

Misc TechFlex and Heatshring:

RAAMmat and Ensolite:

Of course tonight I wasn't able to get away from work until late, but the goal was to put two layers of RAAMmat down in the front. This or course meant removing the seats which were impossible to unbolt w/ out me having to go buy a cheap impact wrench. This means I didn't get started until about 8:00pm. After 3 hours I'm about 3/4 of the way done.I'd forgotten how tedious sound deadening is. That RAAMmat is also VERY tacky, I went through about 10 pairs of disposable gloves. I have a couple hours before I go to work in the morning and I hope to finish it up so I can lay the Ensolite tomorow evening up front.

Beginning of evening w/ seats and carpet out:

Passenger side w/ two layers of RAAMmat (notice how my scissors are now a tar ball, anything you work with while installing RAAMmat will be pretty sticky afterwards):

 

[four15s 10+ year member]

thats nice

looking good so far

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[ls2poweredgoat 5,000+ posts]

Excellent job on the deadening.

Why in the world are you running an 8 gauge power for the headunit?

 

[na_rsx 10+ year member]

nice progress, btw why not 1200rms, 13av.2 can take that no problem

 

[Phers1er 10+ year member]

(I ordered the pack of 1/4" hex bolts and T-nuts from PartsExpress to install, but how do I get the T-nuts in since the box is already built?):

The way I usually do this is:

1.set the sub in the box and mark where the holes need to be(make sure this is dead on or you will be sorry)

2. Drill the holes Make sure the t-nuts fit snug in the holes(do not use a drill bit that is too large or drill these holes even a little bit crooked).

3. Place some large washers on one of the bolts (You will need these so the bolt doesn't pull through the MDF). Then place the t-nut on the back side of the baffle, tighten the bolt with washers(I recomend using a few at least 1/2" to 3/4" around) in finger tight.

4. Now it is time to really crank them down. Do this until you seat the t-nut then move on to the next hole and repeat.

P.S.The build is looking really good so far! hope this helps^^

 

[15nissen 10+ year member]

These are the four wires on the wiring harness that I'm not sure what to do with. Please help!

ILLM / orange- is head unit illumination, such as when you turn your headlights on, it dims along with the rest of your dash.

P ant / blue- If your car has a power antenna. When headunit powers on, your antenna will rise up.

REMO/ blue w/ white stripe- turns on any aftermarket amps when headunit as powered on.

IN Int / pink- Not entirely positive, but i have never used it, and i have installed over 25 headunits.

Hope that helps

 

[ericnord 10+ year member]

Thanks guys for the responses!

I will bridge the sub, so you are correct 1200x1.

Power to the HU is coming from the back of the car where I will have a distro block. Is it bad to run 8 gauge, I can run some 16 gauge remote wire if 8 gauge will hurt.

Thanks for the t-nut advice, I'll try that.

 

[Fiercetimbo17 10+ year member]

pink would be telephone interrupt, no need in this case

 

[ericnord 10+ year member]

Only small progress last night since I'm still waiting on my 1/0 gauge cable and more RAAMmat to come in.

I went ahead and put a layer of Ensolite on the pass front floor. Stuff is a breeze to lay down:

Also removed the door paneling for both pass side doors in anticipation of the RAAMmat coming in today. I have no idea how I'm going to get the inner membrane back together, the power window motor is a pain to line-up. Other than that it was a smooth removal:

 

[ls2poweredgoat 5,000+ posts]

Why the 8-gauge power wire for the headunit?

 

[audiobahnuser18 5,000+ posts]

im also curious why the 8awg for the h.u. ??? but very nice man looks real good so far keep up the great work.