headlight dimming, need advice

[goingdef 10+ year member]

I've never done anything but that. Please explain how setting gain at one frequency with a particular test tone (or tones) translates into performance with music all at various record levels and playing any and all frequencies? At some point common sense and the ears prevail.

OP. JL amps have regulated power supply so should deliver the same power at any operating voltage. Add another battery if you like but IMO you're within safe operating limits of the equipment though possibly shortening life expectency of your stock electrical system.

setting the x-over is where playing it by ear works NOT on your gain no ones ears can hear distortion before it begins to damage audio equipment(and at high levels that damage happens fast) and when you set the gain WITH a dmm using a test tone you account for the fact music will not play as loudly by simply using a tone recorded at a lower level -3db -6bd or by simply setting the sub settings lower on the hu when using a 0db tone, past that the eq and sub out level will make up for musical imperfections. Not setting it by ear I run a T600.2@4 ohm per ch.and a 16mc2000d@2 ohms all on two runs of 4g wire one yellow top and a factory 70amp alt all with minimal to no dimming and no heat build!

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

setting the x-over is where playing it by ear works NOT on your gain no ones ears can hear distortion before it begins to damage audio equipment(and at high levels that damage happens fast) and when you set the gain WITH a dmm using a test tone you account for the fact music will not play as loudly by simply using a tone recorded at a lower level -3db -6bd or by simply setting the sub settings lower on the hu when using a 0db tone, past that the eq and sub out level will make up for musical imperfections. Not setting it by ear I run a T600.2@4 ohm per ch.and a 16mc2000d@2 ohms all on two runs of 4g wire one yellow top and a factory 70amp alt all with minimal to no dimming and no heat build!

So inaudible distortion damages equipment?

What specific frequency and/or impedence does one need to do this testing?

Both my current amps have clipping lights on them and I don't run things into clipping. I use a pre-amp to gain subs on the fly and my 6 channel is gained so that channels match eachother and I have enough clean volume on the HU to push things up to full power with any recording I own.

I guess some method of gaining so that you were always running at 3 or 6db down from your full output would be safe, but I paid for the power I have and intend to be able to use it when I want.

 

[f1mclarenagr 10+ year member]

Buy a cap

Who is that hot *** chick touching her *******?

Yeah second battery would help, but in the end you might want to get a HO alternator. It'll be worth it if you ever want to upgrade, key word EVER = you will.

 

[Bad4health 10+ year member]

get some HIDs they dont dim with bass //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[goingdef 10+ year member]

So inaudible distortion damages equipment?
What specific frequency and/or impedence does one need to do this testing?

Both my current amps have clipping lights on them and I don't run things into clipping. I use a pre-amp to gain subs on the fly and my 6 channel is gained so that channels match eachother and I have enough clean volume on the HU to push things up to full power with any recording I own.

I guess some method of gaining so that you were always running at 3 or 6db down from your full output would be safe, but I paid for the power I have and intend to be able to use it when I want.

well yea I like to lean towards the safe side and let me explain what I mean by inaudible is at high volume levels ( I like to use boost knobs on my amps not gain boost45hz-15khz) so I like to set low so that I don't ever see full potential with them down I don't like to adjust anything on my eq above 0 but by running it this way even downloading a tweak song that is way OVER enhanced and playing full tilt doesn't drive anything to clip(but I don't know that for sure as none of my amps have a clipping indicator) but I set them for way less then there rated as I need 125w rms per front channel and use a T600.2 and I need 1000w rms for my subs and I run a 16mc2000d at the moment, hoping to trade it off for a T1000.1bdcp.

 

[CarAudioNewb! 10+ year member]

I want to say first off I appreciate everyone's responses and want to help, I was just driving home now in the dark with headlights on , I had the defroster going front and rear and heat on floor on for whole way home and most of way it was on 3 (highest it goes is 4) along with a radar detector plugged in cigarette lighter with both amps, radio etc running and bass knob on the dash was 3/4 way up , maybe alil more and volume on radio around 20 ish, i had no headlight dimming and bass was hitting hard where I could feel it in the back of my drivers seat and the mirrors were moving a bit, the volt meter I had installed I watched it never went under 14 once, this is where im lost tho because once i turn bass knob all way up tho and volume up to over 25 where whole car is shaking from the bass then the lights will flicker almost but they dont get dimmer exactly just flicker with the bass on heavy hits, im trying to fig out if im pretty ok is all basically if it only happens in this situation while having all those things running at once also, and headlgihts , fog lights on to, my big conceren is i just want to make sure im not going to kill the car basically with what I have or if im stressing myself out over a common issue, also if anyone has advice on what I can do to set gains on the amp perfect with the DMM id appreciate it...I apologize for the long reply, just trying to give you guys as much info as i can about it

 

[CarAudioNewb! 10+ year member]

hey guys quick update, im at a coffee house using internet there so i can post this quick, but my lights are better after i set the amp with my DMM and volt meter i installed is staying pretty steady on 14.5 to 14 on heavier hits , system still isnt blasting but volume is up high and there is a lot of bass coming out that see my rear view mirror shaking. but I was curious so I took my dmm and took a reading from my starting battery and then the battery in the trunk the shop installed to help power the sub and amps, and basically when the car is off, its reading both batterys as one, the reading was 26 I think point something and in the high 30's with the car on. Did they wire the trunk battery wrong because why is the reading from the starting battery so high if the trunk battery isnt in line with it, it has to be set up as part of it for that to happen right? is this bad and what could be causing my issues, I want the trunk battery to mainly act like a better capicator its a ct600 so its not a huge battery but Im going to re wire it tomorrow if you guys think it should be different and if this is what is causing some of issues because the alternator is seeing more in terms of it cause they are reading together? this is my first system where I had a second battery installed so any help id appreciate it. there is a seperate fuse for the trunk battery too, and I was told an isolator to and it is grounded in the trunk.

 

[CarAudioNewb! 10+ year member]

whats the best way to have second battery set up