help me design a system

conform.png

no, this is suicide...

http://www.snopes.com/photos/gruesome/interrogate.asp

 
You're beginning to be a little more reasonable now. You seem to be interested in sound quality, and if that's the case, you could do MUCH worse than Image Dynamics and Rainbow.
But Hifonics isn't going to cut it in a SQ system.

How about this:

Comps: Rainbow SLX 265 Deluxe http://www.woofersetc.com/p7033/SLX-265-Deluxe--Rainbow-SLX-65"-2Way-Component-System.htm

Rear fill: Rainbow KX 130 http://www.woofersetc.com/p7189/KX-130--Rainbow-KX-525"-Coaxial-Speakers.htm

2 channel amp: Arc Audio FD-2200 http://www.woofersetc.com/p6856/FD-2200--ARC-Audio-2-Channel-370-Watt-Amplifier.htm

Subwoofer: Image Dynamics IDQ12V3.D2 http://www.woofersetc.com/p6224/IDQ12V3D2--Image-Dynamics-12"-IDQ-Version-3-Dual-2-Ohm-Subwoofer.htm

Mono amp: Arc Audio FD 600.1 http://www.woofersetc.com/p6859/FD-6001--ARC-Audio-1-Channel-620-Watt-Amplifier.htm

This equipment would sound fantastic. I listed most of the stuff from woofersetc because it was easier that way. You can probably find most of this stuff cheaper elsewhere.

You'll still need deadener, wiring, etc...
That is a super nice sound quality set up.

 
ok so im using that 1 ID sub as my only sub correct? and ive been looking at deadener and i found this http://www.caraudiodeals.com/dynamat-10455-p-897.html but i dont know how much i need for my car. will 1 pack of that be enough or should i get more? Also, what would you suggest for a wiring kit and what should i do about a box for the sub?
Yes, it's a single sub setup. Trust me, it'll sound amazing if you go through the trouble of deadening your vehicle and have a nice enclosure built. You'll thank me for helping you out, man.

The Dynamat you found is fine, but you're going to need more than 1 package of it. WAY MORE.

The wiring kit shouldn't be an issue. Just a high quality 4 awg kit and a nice distribution block should suffice. As for the enclosure, I'd have it built by a professional. Maybe do something in the spare tire well or something. It all depends on how you want it to look/sound...

 
That is a super nice sound quality set up.
Thanks. I help people out with things like this all the time, and I like to think that I'm decent at it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Yes, it's a single sub setup. Trust me, it'll sound amazing if you go through the trouble of deadening your vehicle and have a nice enclosure built. You'll thank me for helping you out, man.
The Dynamat you found is fine, but you're going to need more than 1 package of it. WAY MORE.

The wiring kit shouldn't be an issue. Just a decent 4 awg kit should suffice. As for the enclosure, I'd have it built by a professional. Maybe do something in the spare tire well or something. It all depends on how you want it to look...
Alright how is this for a wiring kit? http://www.amazon.com/AWG-Single-Amp-Kit-Red-Black/dp/B000JC7F02

And how should i figure out how much dynamat i need?

 
Alright how is this for a wiring kit? http://www.amazon.com/AWG-Single-Amp-Kit-Red-Black/dp/B000JC7F02And how should i figure out how much dynamat i need?
I'd personally go with something a little more high-end.

wiring kit: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575RFK4/Rockford-Fosgate-RFK4.html?tp=2919

You'll need a distribution block as well, but they're relatively inexpensive. Just pick one up from a local shop.

You'll also need quality RCA's. 2 of them.

The amount of Dynamat needed is relative to what you want to do. Do you want to deaden your trunk and doors? Or do you want to deaden everything, including your floor panels?

 
So you need 1-Headunit

2-Amps

3-front speakers

4-Subs

5-deadener

6-wires

7-RCA's

8-fuse block

9-MDF wood

10-glue

11-0,4 gauge wire to do the big three.

12-if you are looking into those FI's, how much power are looking at pushing those puppies? I think they are 800rms, so you should have an amp that will push each sub into 800rms to start with.

13- probably a new alternator

you need to really look at what you're asking, car audio isnt cheap.

if you want a SQ or SQL car then you're going to pay for it.
thats true, you wanna spend $1000 and you end up spending $1500>

 
You're beginning to be a little more reasonable now. You seem to be interested in sound quality, and if that's the case, you could do MUCH worse than Image Dynamics and Rainbow.
But Hifonics isn't going to cut it in a SQ system.

How about this:

Comps: Rainbow SLX 265 Deluxe http://www.woofersetc.com/p7033/SLX-265-Deluxe--Rainbow-SLX-65"-2Way-Component-System.htm

Rear fill: Rainbow KX 130 http://www.woofersetc.com/p7189/KX-130--Rainbow-KX-525"-Coaxial-Speakers.htm

2 channel amp: Arc Audio FD-2200 http://www.woofersetc.com/p6856/FD-2200--ARC-Audio-2-Channel-370-Watt-Amplifier.htm

Subwoofer: Image Dynamics IDQ12V3.D2 http://www.woofersetc.com/p6224/IDQ12V3D2--Image-Dynamics-12"-IDQ-Version-3-Dual-2-Ohm-Subwoofer.htm

Mono amp: Arc Audio FD 600.1 http://www.woofersetc.com/p6859/FD-6001--ARC-Audio-1-Channel-620-Watt-Amplifier.htm

This equipment would sound fantastic. I listed most of the stuff from woofersetc because it was easier that way. You can probably find most of this stuff cheaper elsewhere.

You'll still need deadener, wiring, etc...


thats a nice setup, the onlything i would change.

replace the SLX 265 Deluxe with SLC 265 Kick and forget the rears

SLC 265 Kick

http://www.woofersetc.com/p7032/SLC-265-Kick--Rainbow-SLC-65"-2Way-Component-System.htm

 
thats a nice setup, the onlything i would change.replace the SLX 265 Deluxe with SLC 265 Kick and forget the rears
I was trying to avoid going WAY over $1,000 with his equipment budget. The SLC Kicks are substantially more expensive comps than the SLX's, and that's the main reason I picked them. But, like you said, drop the rears and it won't make a difference in the overall price.

I've learned that the average novice doesn't like the idea of having no rear speakers in their car. The whole "soundstaging" ideal is lost on them until they learn it for themselves. I think he'd be better off without them too, but whether he'll do that or not is ultimately his decision...

 
I was trying to avoid going WAY over $1,000 with his equipment budget. The SLC Kicks are substantially more expensive comps than the SLX's, and that's the main reason I picked them. But, like you said, drop the rears and it won't make a difference in the overall price.
I've learned that the average novice doesn't like the idea of having no rear speakers in their car. The whole "soundstaging" ideal is lost on them until they learn it for themselves. I think he'd be better off without them too, but whether he'll do that or not is ultimately his decision...
What is the advantage to putting in SLCs in the front and having no speakers in the rear? if this will sound better ill take your advice

 
What is the advantage to putting in SLCs in the front and having no speakers in the rear? if this will sound better ill take your advice
The SLC's are an obvious upgrade as far as sound quality is concerned, and their $100 price difference came into play when I chose not to direct you towards them. I was just trying to keep your equipment budget moderately low. However, the SLX's aren't bad components by any means.

Upgrading the front stage (your component speakers) and dropping the rear fill (your coaxials) will bring the soundstage to the front of your vehicle, thus making your music more lifelike. Component placement (tweeters in particular) is important as well. This is why lots of people go to great lengths in order to customize their component install.

I originally listed the Rainbow coaxials for your rear speakers, but I never intended for them to be powered by an amplifier. I'm going to link a Crutchfield write-up on stereo imaging/sound staging to show you why I did this. Notice the section under ADJUSTING FOR REAR FILL. The writer says; " While personal taste plays a role here, most experts agree that you should adjust the volume level for rear speakers so that you're barely conscious of their presence". If you're not supposed to even hear them, then why bother with powering them at all, right? To take it even further, why buy them at all?

Here's the article: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HcLbteaZTpg/Learn/learningcenter/car/speakers_imaging_soundstage.html You can find more detailed recommendations elsewhere, but this should be a good place to start.

Like has been said in this thead already; Car audio is not a cheap hobby. Throwing some subs and an amp into your vehicle is easy, but it takes a little intelligence, research and money in order to do things correctly. SQ setups are expensive, but there's no reason why you can't own a good one given your budget. Just keep asking questions and follow up the answers you get here with a little research. You'll have a much better understading of some of these basic aspects of the hobby before you know it...

 
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