help with 3way crossover set points

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

would it be better to put the woofer in the kick and the midrange in the door? just curious

I cant put the midbass in the kicks cause i dont have the room for it

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

I cant put the midbass in the kicks cause i dont have the room for it

You need the midrange fairly on axis anyways, so kicks would be better.

 

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

You need the midrange fairly on axis anyways, so kicks would be better.

yea thats what i plan to do midbass in the doors, mids in the kicks and the twets in the pillars

 

[Fatboy501 10+ year member]

Thanks for this topic... currently planning my own upgrades. I'm loving the info.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

yea thats what i plan to do midbass in the doors, mids in the kicks and the twets in the pillars

I'm not sure how well those Founteks will like 160hz. Might as well bump it up to 200 or 250, since the SLS can handle being crossed a little higher than 160, and you'll gain more power handling on the Founteks at the same time. And don't cross the tweeter low just because you can. It can be crossed at 2k but the real benefit of a 3-way front stage is having the majority of the vocal range coming from one set of speakers, the midranges. Crossing tweeters at 2k just kill that advantage...might as well just have a 2-way.

 

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

I'm not sure how well those Founteks will like 160hz. Might as well bump it up to 200 or 250, since the SLS can handle being crossed a little higher than 160, and you'll gain more power handling on the Founteks at the same time. And don't cross the tweeter low just because you can. It can be crossed at 2k but the real benefit of a 3-way front stage is having the majority of the vocal range coming from one set of speakers, the midranges. Crossing tweeters at 2k just kill that advantage...might as well just have a 2-way.

good advice

ill make the midbass 60hz to 250hz

midbass 250Hz to 2.5Khz

Tweeter 2.5khz and up

how does that look?

BTW: im still looking for mids

B&C 6MDN44

http://www.usspeaker.com/B&C-6MDN44-1.htm

or

B&C 6 PEV13 it has 99dB Sensitivity

http://www.usspeaker.com/homepage.htm

or

SEAS Excel W15LY-001 Nextel Coated

and SEAS Excel W15CY-001 magnesium Cone

 

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

n/m

 

[///M5 10+ year member]

You are going about this all wrong. Don't predetermine anything it will just make it take way longer to dial in. Instead get things mounted and play your mids alone, get them dialed and then fill in with the tweeter and midbass.

 

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

You are going about this all wrong. Don't predetermine anything it will just make it take way longer to dial in. Instead get things mounted and play your mids alone, get them dialed and then fill in with the tweeter and midbass.

im just trying to get a general idea with the crossover points, cause im still trying to decide with which mids im going to go with

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

good adviceill make the midbass 60hz to 250hz

midbass 250Hz to 2.5Khz

Tweeter 2.5khz and up

how does that look?

BTW: im still looking for mids

B&C 6MDN44

http://www.usspeaker.com/B&C-6MDN44-1.htm

or

B&C 6 PEV13 it has 99dB Sensitivity

http://www.usspeaker.com/homepage.htm

or

SEAS Excel W15LY-001 Nextel Coated

and SEAS Excel W15CY-001 magnesium Cone

The B&C is far and away too sensative for the rest of your system. You'd have to turn gains WAYYY down and still problem have level matching problems, plus when your midbasses and tweet were out of steam your mid would just be breaking a sweat. I'd go with one of the SEAS drivers over the B&C in your case.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

The B&C is far and away too sensative for the rest of your system. You'd have to turn gains WAYYY down and still problem have level matching problems, plus when your midbasses and tweet were out of steam your mid would just be breaking a sweat. I'd go with one of the SEAS drivers over the B&C in your case.

That's just silly. There are numerous things wrong with all of the assumptions you just made. Are all sensitivity measurments = across manufacturers? No. What about baffle diffraction? Off axis listening effects? Amp efficiency?

Also, why can't one effectively level match where it counts? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif Don't choose speakers based on efficiency, bad idea.

M5 has it right; you're trying to predict the weather half way across the world, man. You need to go to the destination first and then decide if you need a coat or not. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

I've done a lot of experimentation with the deep chamber Illuminator RR's in my car. Just cause they have a low Fs doesn't mean they will play low and sound good. 2khz was the lower limit for my comfort.

Also, if you've never used a ring radiator tweet, you're best finding a laser pointer to work aiming. 15* makes a major difference. But once you nail those tweeters, I doubt you've ever hear anything better - home audio or otherwise. They're beautiful!

And from my experience with pro audio drivers, they're not going to have the "finesse" you're probably used to with car audio speakers. They're designed to play in cabinets and play loud. I wouldn't say ultra resolution is their strong point; but low distortion and midbass snap they have in spades.

 

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

ty for your advise guys

Ill mount the speakers first, play the mids by it self try to dialed them in and then fill in with the tweeter and midbass.

since the B&C mids are not a good match ill get the SEAS Excel W15LY-001

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Midrange: in a kicks sealed

ill get the SEAS Excel W15LY-001

How much room for a sealed kick do you have? Any idea how large of a Vb it will end up?

You really should model your candidates to see which will play best, in what I'm guessing will be, a small sealed kick...if you haven't already.

 

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

How much room for a sealed kick do you have? Any idea how large of a Vb it will end up?
You really should model your candidates to see which will play best, in what I'm guessing will be, a small sealed kick...if you haven't already.

it is going to be small sealed kicks, if i use the Seas Excel W15LY-001

but if i use Fountek FR135EX, WLDock over at DIYMA told me

"WinISD shows 3 dB down at about 88Hz in a 0.209 cu ft sealed enclosure for a Qtc of 0.71. "

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

it is going to be small sealed kicks, if i use the Seas Excel W15LY-001
but if i use Fountek FR135EX, WLDock over at DIYMA told me

"WinISD shows 3 dB down at about 88Hz in a 0.209 cu ft sealed enclosure for a Qtc of 0.71. "

.2 cubes is more than 5L. That's pretty big for "small sealed."

Might want to determine how large you can make the kicks, before you buy anything. The other option is just to make them as large as possible and then reduce the Vb to optimize the driver that calls for a smaller air space.

Put the Scan 12M on your list if you're going to play in Excel territory. They can play in very small enclosures and will run out at .707 Qtc in like a .7L sealed. Might even be able to go dash/bottom of A pillar if you're game.