Help with New Audio Setup for a Single Cab Pickup (Newb Alert!)

cstephens

CarAudio.com Newbie
Hi folks. Long first post, but I want to be thorough in my needs and current plans. Please go easy on me, as I’m not much of an audio person. I have an old truck that I am trying to install a fresh sound system in. It’s a 1983 Ford single cab pickup. From the factory, it had one dash speaker in the center and two 5.5” door speakers.

When I was 16 and first bought this truck, I installed the cheapest AutoZone Dual (brand) head unit I could get and put a Sony 500W amp behind the seat. Cheap 6.5” Dual speakers in the doors and a couple larger speakers that came out of an 80s record player behind the seat, not even mounted to anything…just magnetic to the back wall of the cab and powered off the amp. Suffice it to say, I had 0 clue what I was doing…I sold the truck and the guy that bought it unhooked everything. I bought it back for sentimental reasons a few years ago and have just used a small Bluetooth speaker ever since.

Basic Sound Setup
I’m finally wanting to put an actual sound system back into the truck. Nothing too crazy/fancy.

I mostly listen to classic rock at high volumes, as God intended. I am not really an audiophile and I am definitely not very knowledgeable on sound systems (I know enough to know I don’t know anything). I’m a simple man. I want the music to go loud enough to cover my terrible singing (for the passenger’s sake) without sounding like complete trash. I definitely appreciate “high-value” components, but I am willing to spend the money where it matters. Let’s call the budget somewhere around $600-700 (for the sound components specifically; I already have the sound deadening discussed below). I’m thinking of new single-din head unit in the dash, some good coaxial 6.5” speakers in the doors powered by a speaker-level amp, and…maybe a small powered sub under the seat?

I always feel like it’s the bass that needs help in all my vehicles. And obviously I worry about turning bass in particular up too much on the doors because of rattling. I want to feel it all over, not just in the arm I have rested on the door panel, ya know?

This is what I am looking at parts-wise as a “high value” setup…hoping for critiques:
JVC KD-X280BT – Head Unit (this has a “built-in amplifier” for 4-Channel x 22W RMS/50W Peak, which I’m not 100% sure will work with the 4-Channel Amp I have below?)
Kenwood KAC-M1814 – 45W RMS x 4-Channel Speaker Amp
Rockford Fosgate R165X3 Prime – 3-Way Coaxial Speakers 50W RMS
Kenwood KSC-SW11 – Underseat Sub, 75W RMS/150W Peak
I plan to run new 16AWG speaker wire to everything.

Improving the Experience
Being an old truck, there are lots of little squeaks, rattles, occasional bangs. Engine and wind noise is also pretty bad. For sound deadening/enhancement, I have 36 sqft of 80mil Kilmat butyl deadener. Number one place I plan to use that is in the doors. These truck doors have essentially nothing inside and EVERYTHING about them is noisy. I plan to coat the outer door skin and the inner skin (where the speaker mounts). I will also use some just behind the door panel itself. The door panels are large plastic pieces with 5 screws holding them on and are definitely a big rattle source. I’ll also do the centers of the roof, shooting for 50% coverage or more. Same goes for the back wall of the cab, which is nothing but painted metal (no carpet/insulation). Whatever is left over from all that will go on the floor pans, center hump, and as far up the firewall to the dash as I can reach without pulling the dash.

In addition:
  • I have 36 sqft of closed cell foam that will go on top of the Kilmat, with the focus on pretty much the same areas (that’s as much for helping the air conditioning performance as it is sound deadening).
  • I will also be doing new mass-backed carpet (my carpet is coming apart on the passenger side, so it was getting replaced anyway).
  • I have new weatherstripping to go along the doors/windows and help reduce wind noise.
  • I will also be doing a very through job of taping wires, tightening bolts, etc to reduce noises.
I have not bought anything for this part yet, but I am thinking of using some kind of heat shielding on the underside of the hood, on the firewall inside the engine bay, and above the transmission/exhaust. This is more for helping keep the heat out of the cab in the summer, but should help, to some degree, cut down on ambient noise.

My questions for the people smarter than me:
-Will the JVC head unit’s speaker output work for the Kenwood amp? Do I need speaker to RCA conversion cables to input to that amp? It’s a little unclear from the installation manuals. The manual says it allows for speaker level inputs, but does it do that only through the speaker cable to RCA cables?
-How does the sound component plan look overall? Would you recommend another 6.5" door speaker that would perform better with the space I have and accomplish my goals better?
-Is the underseat amp a waste of money to just add a bit of punch and balance out the highs? Again, I’m not looking to shake the neighbors, I just want a well-balanced setup for road trip karaoke. Worst case, I suppose I could install the door speakers and see what I think, but I would prefer to do everything at once while it's all apart.

-How do we feel about “speaker baffles” for the 6.5” door speakers? Are they good or bad? It seems like the speaker would “want” to have the space behind the door panel to help create sound, but if that’s true, I don’t know why these would be such a common product? Should I just use some Kilmat around the holes in the door where the speakers mount (like, between the speaker flange and the door)?
-I only have two speakers planned right now (the 6.5” door). I know they aren’t really ideal, but because of the limitations of the single cab truck and my mounting options, should I go ahead and put a couple 6x9 boxes and speakers behind the seat? And, if so, recommendations on what to go with for good balance with the front pair?
-If I should steer clear of 6x9s behind the seat, would it be beneficial to run something like 75-100W RMS speakers in the door, bridged?

-Is it possible to connect an upgraded center dash speaker to both sides of the truck? I.E. connect a negative wire from the Front Right channel with a positive wire from the Front Left channel so that the center speaker plays anytime that both sides are being powered, but not when only one side is going? I know that is possible on some stereo setups, just don’t know about doing that with these or how it may hurt/help sound.

Thanks in advance for any advice!
 
I wouldn't go with that head unit. It has one preout, (/RCA output to an amp). There are ways around this, but if you haven't bought it yet, you are really limiting yourself. You can buy a better head unit for $20 more now, or buy a bluetooth or 5 ch amp later, and both of those options cost more and are really limiting. - Find a head unit with at least 2 preouts. (2v-5v is most of em, higher voltage is better).

With your speaker choice, what I would actually do is find a head unit that has 50w x 4 RMS. That's what those speakers you picked call for, and it saves you from buying an amp (, wiring, a fuse holder). It will save you the cost of the amp + about $50, not to mention space, and the install. Being in a small cab pickup, I would try to "biamp" a set of components off just the head unit, so instead of 1 ch to each crossover then split to a mid and a tweeter, you are sending 1 ch to each speaker. You could get some more power to em this way, and you aren't losing anything if that's all you do. If this interests you, I would start by looking for a set of components before you buy anything else. Get an idea of your total budget, and this is where you have the most flexibility on cost depending on what you want. See if you can find a set that you CAN biamp, and then you would have to find a head unit with more than average power.

That's a really low wattage sub. You do you, but that's probably the lowest wattage sub I've seen. It SHOULD be enough to add sound quality, but don't expect thump with that. If that's all you want, then it won't draw as much power/amperage as others.

36sq ft of sound deadener won't cover as much as you think it will. My suggestion would be to (get more and) start with the doors (sounds like you have those figured out). Hold off on the roof, go trans tunnel, sheets on the floor and back wall. It doesn't NEED full coverage, but full coverage is best. Try to cover where the noise is coming from. If it's noise you want to block, the back wall will help with exhaust noise. The floor will help with road noise. You can tap on the metal and find the spots that sound thin. That's where I would suggest it. It will help block out heat with it on the roof. I would honestly expect one layer in your pickup to be closer to 100sq ft than 36. My guess is you will do one, and you will NEED more, then you will want more.

Speaker baffles are good if your speakers could be exposed to the elements. On older vehicles, they are in the doors. Sounds like yours would be too. They don't hurt, and based on in the doors, for that vehicle, yes I would spend the $5-$10 on em.

You could figure out a center channel, but I wouldn't.

As for the 6x9s. If those are in pillar mounts up top, where you can hear them, then install them. If they aren't and you're talking under the seat, then don't bother.
 
Thanks in advance for any advice!
The plan looks good. 3 changes I suggest-
1. Change from the coaxials to component speakers. That way you can set the tweeter higher for a wider stage. These JBLs are pricier but worth the coin
Screenshot_20230810-201708.png

2. I would do away with the underseat sub. IMO those fall short of their intended purpose. Instead I would opt for a rear seat sub enclosure powered by the rear channels of the 4 channel amp.
The front channels can power the JBLs. The signal will come from the RCAs of the radio. You will not need the radio's high output.
3. As for the amp, I tend to trust one with a bigger footprint for actual output and heat dissipation. This Kenwood has more power and better wiring terminals for the speakers. The bridged rear channels will give a nice 270 watts. That is plenty for a nice kick to your seatback.
Screenshot_20230810-203916.png

As for the sub, I do not know how much space you have behind the seat, but this type of box is universal for most single cab back seats. The shown sub is the perfect fit for the box.
Screenshot_20230810-205731.png

Screenshot_20230810-230434.png
 
Last edited:
Amazon product ASIN B08H5WZL96
These are on sale on the S.Qubed site on Ebay Cheap. or I would look at some speakers on CDT Audio Monthly sale



You will have two extra Chs to utilize later on if you want to add some Mid bass in the Kicks


HU? Simple HU. The HU is your WorkHorse of your system. I would prob go with something like these




Look for a 100% OFC amp kit. 4ga will be fine for the amp recommended for the price point Something like this kit will work
 
Last edited:
Amazon product ASIN B08H5WZL96
These are on sale on the S.Qubed site on Ebay Cheap. or I would look at some speakers on CDT Audio Monthly sale



You will have two extra Chs to utilize later on if you want to add some Mid bass in the Kicks


HU? Simple HU. The HU is your WorkHorse of your system. I would prob go with something like these




Look for a 100% OFC amp kit. 4ga will be fine for the amp recommended for the price point Something like this kit will work
You will have to shave the Diameter of the enclosure for the sub. Its pretty easy to do with a Wood Bastard file and a little patience. Just a few recommendations for the truck system. Im sure others will Chime in
 
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