sdmtnbiker420 10+ year member
GAME 4 SALE
Hey everyone,
Recently got in my 200 amp alt. I installed it and because of its size it needs 1/0 cable. I replaced all the grounds and put in a 1/0 power wire with a 200 amp inline fuse.
This alt was bench tested and proves to put out 110 amps at idle and 200 amps after 1200 rpms and it should run at 14.8 volts.
After installing it the engine started right up w/o the 4 pin plug that would go to the stock alt. My problem is: how can I run a single wire from the alt to the battery and still have the car start without have the small gauge alt-to-main fuse box wire?
any ideas?
I have a mental block and am unable to visualize how the whole system works.
I ran the alt to battery with my fat gauge cable and kept the stock wire going to the main fuse box. When I checked my voltage it was at like 14.2volts but when I turned my headlights on it dropped to 13.9 volts and when I blasted my stereo it almost killed the engine //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif ... which shouldn't happen with this alt which was proven on the bench.
its a self exciting single wire alt... it puts volts out anytime the pulley is spinning.
I reran all the wires in the engine. I eliminated the original wiring and ran my 1/0 gauge (from the alt) as close to the fuse box as I could and then I downgraded the 1/0 to a short short short piece of 4 gauge that would fit into the fuse box... and the wire that goes from the fuse box to the battery I replaced with the shortest piece of 4 gauge that would make the distance.
Those pieces of 4 gauge should be able to handle more than enough voltage.
My question is that when I'm slammin my system at idle, the eld goes crazy (which is understandable because the bass notes are not constant but sporadic) but is there a way I can make it just keep a steady idle?
With the stereo slamming the voltage at the battery never drops below 13.5 volts (which is awesome) but with nothing on it never gets higher than 14 volts.
Since the alternator is self exciting and single wire, the eld cannot tell it to stop charging.... so is the eld even doing anything other than raising my idle?
I came across another thread that you (Msc) wrote up and in it you said that the eld controls 14.5 volts. So if its getting that or better it shuts the alt charging off and if its not getting that it raises the rpm to create charge so that it can get 14.5.
Since I installed the alt my idle has been quite higher.
Is my eld realizing that the car isn't running 14.5v and keeping high idle in hopes that it will eventually get back to 14.5?
If thats true and my alt never gets up to 14.5 volts then the eld would just keep the rpms high until it hits 14.5v, which would never happen.
Stopped into that advance again to see if I could get a amp reading and the manager says to me that the amp reading isn't going to work because the amp clamp is shot on their machine....
so I'll be back at the other advance this weekend hopefully... maybe they can do the test correctly.
If the alternator would put out the range of 14.5 I would be happy with it...
It did that in the first test before I wired thru the eld.
Msc, If you were to install a HO alt, single wire, how would you wire it in?
-directly to the battery fused like the company says and run the original alt wire to the eld also?
-or remove the factory wiring and run the 1/0 thru the eld like I have now?
-or run 1/0 straight to the battery fused and then run a wire from the battery to the eld?
Or is there another combination I'm not thinking of?
Recently got in my 200 amp alt. I installed it and because of its size it needs 1/0 cable. I replaced all the grounds and put in a 1/0 power wire with a 200 amp inline fuse.
This alt was bench tested and proves to put out 110 amps at idle and 200 amps after 1200 rpms and it should run at 14.8 volts.
After installing it the engine started right up w/o the 4 pin plug that would go to the stock alt. My problem is: how can I run a single wire from the alt to the battery and still have the car start without have the small gauge alt-to-main fuse box wire?
any ideas?
I have a mental block and am unable to visualize how the whole system works.
I ran the alt to battery with my fat gauge cable and kept the stock wire going to the main fuse box. When I checked my voltage it was at like 14.2volts but when I turned my headlights on it dropped to 13.9 volts and when I blasted my stereo it almost killed the engine //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif ... which shouldn't happen with this alt which was proven on the bench.
its a self exciting single wire alt... it puts volts out anytime the pulley is spinning.
I reran all the wires in the engine. I eliminated the original wiring and ran my 1/0 gauge (from the alt) as close to the fuse box as I could and then I downgraded the 1/0 to a short short short piece of 4 gauge that would fit into the fuse box... and the wire that goes from the fuse box to the battery I replaced with the shortest piece of 4 gauge that would make the distance.
Those pieces of 4 gauge should be able to handle more than enough voltage.
My question is that when I'm slammin my system at idle, the eld goes crazy (which is understandable because the bass notes are not constant but sporadic) but is there a way I can make it just keep a steady idle?
With the stereo slamming the voltage at the battery never drops below 13.5 volts (which is awesome) but with nothing on it never gets higher than 14 volts.
Since the alternator is self exciting and single wire, the eld cannot tell it to stop charging.... so is the eld even doing anything other than raising my idle?
I came across another thread that you (Msc) wrote up and in it you said that the eld controls 14.5 volts. So if its getting that or better it shuts the alt charging off and if its not getting that it raises the rpm to create charge so that it can get 14.5.
Since I installed the alt my idle has been quite higher.
Is my eld realizing that the car isn't running 14.5v and keeping high idle in hopes that it will eventually get back to 14.5?
If thats true and my alt never gets up to 14.5 volts then the eld would just keep the rpms high until it hits 14.5v, which would never happen.
Stopped into that advance again to see if I could get a amp reading and the manager says to me that the amp reading isn't going to work because the amp clamp is shot on their machine....
so I'll be back at the other advance this weekend hopefully... maybe they can do the test correctly.
If the alternator would put out the range of 14.5 I would be happy with it...
It did that in the first test before I wired thru the eld.
Msc, If you were to install a HO alt, single wire, how would you wire it in?
-directly to the battery fused like the company says and run the original alt wire to the eld also?
-or remove the factory wiring and run the 1/0 thru the eld like I have now?
-or run 1/0 straight to the battery fused and then run a wire from the battery to the eld?
Or is there another combination I'm not thinking of?
