FEATURED Hooptie Scion TC build

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Port needs to be shrunk. I get zero velocity out of it and not much subwoofer control with lows.

75 volts AC should be 5600 watts out of each amp. Have not gone over half gain on the knob.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Wiring "done" and amps gain matched. Set at 75 volts AC clean 40hz -5db. I don't remember the formula to determine wattage.


View attachment 53164



Both subs are in and it's playing. I'm tired and have to be back at work at 4am tomorrow so I'll play them on the way in.
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Man as long as you gained matched the amps, I wouldnt worry too much about wattage as you tune for your liking and free from that Dammned Clipping area,and what the cars electrical can handle and amps on low notes

 

[djdilliodon!]

Fix the port I’m dying over here . I need to see these things move already

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Got some time today to work on it. Shrunk the port quite a bit. It's better but far from perfect. Top and bottom are single layer and flexes badly. Will either put a brace all the way down the center or double layer it. Maybe both.

It's now 6t x 25w x 21d and tuned to 30hz. Should be around 150" of port area.

 

[SbassLaser]

I was thinking hard on Aeroports but the smallest I could do would have been eight 6" or four 8" aeros.

Area of a cirlce is pi*r^2 so a 6" aero would be 113 square inches of port. 6 of those would be a biiiiit too much lol. a single 8 inch aero would get you 201 square inches. Just some food for thought.
other than that this build is lookin sick! lets get a demo vid when youve got the kinks worked out?

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Area of a cirlce is pi*r^2 so a 6" aero would be 113 square inches of port. 6 of those would be a biiiiit too much lol. a single 8 inch aero would get you 201 square inches. Just some food for thought

This is a single 8" aero with a 30hz tuning.

 

[SbassLaser]

This is a single 8" aero with a 30hz tuning.

View attachment 53727

Oh snap you're totally right, I forgot to halve the diameter to get the radius lol whoops, just ignore me

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Alright so I braced the port really well and it doesn't flex anymore. Setup hammers anything 35+ but is very unimpressive with lows. My port took up like 2 cubes so the wall is probably around 12 cubes net now. Pretty unhappy with it honestly. I really have to give these subs some power to get loud and they get smelly pretty quick with zero clipping.

No matter how I model it in WinISD it seems to peak in the high 30s which is what it is doing now.




This is how it is now. Tuned to 33hz. If I added some length to the port I can get it to 30hz. But I'm thinking I'm just going to redo the whole baffle. It's not glued in just used thick weather stripping and 3" screws to seal it up so it would be easy to remove.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Alright so I braced the port really well and it doesn't flex anymore. Setup hammers anything 35+ but is very unimpressive with lows. My port took up like 2 cubes so the wall is probably around 12 cubes net now. Pretty unhappy with it honestly. I really have to give these subs some power to get loud and they get smelly pretty quick with zero clipping.

No matter how I model it in WinISD it seems to peak in the high 30s which is what it is doing now.




This is how it is now. Tuned to 33hz. If I added some length to the port I can get it to 30hz. But I'm thinking I'm just going to redo the whole baffle. It's not glued in just used thick weather stripping and 3" screws to seal it up so it would be easy to remove.
View attachment 54333

That was a pretty dammned smart idea. I would have never thought of doing something like that.I would have glued and screwed

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

That was a pretty dammned smart idea. I would have never thought of doing something like that.I would have glued and screwed

Did it on 4th order blow throughs alot so we could get the subs out easy and I have been doing it ever since on front baffles. Works great.

 

[djdilliodon!]

Alright so I braced the port really well and it doesn't flex anymore. Setup hammers anything 35+ but is very unimpressive with lows. My port took up like 2 cubes so the wall is probably around 12 cubes net now. Pretty unhappy with it honestly. I really have to give these subs some power to get loud and they get smelly pretty quick with zero clipping.

No matter how I model it in WinISD it seems to peak in the high 30s which is what it is doing now.




This is how it is now. Tuned to 33hz. If I added some length to the port I can get it to 30hz. But I'm thinking I'm just going to redo the whole baffle. It's not glued in just used thick weather stripping and 3" screws to seal it up so it would be easy to remove.
View attachment 54333

With 5 layers on the spider and I’m sure the surround is thick and on the stiff side, the trade off will be the low end output and efficiency. It takes a lot of juice to move that and a 4” coil. If you are smelling the coil, give it a week mid tilt of play. If after that you still smelling the coils, feel the dust caps to see if they are warm. For an all out spl build, multiple layers on the spider can be ideal as you can use larger enclosures with more control, peak at a higher frequency which is easier to get better numbers etc. it all comes at a cost though, low end will suffer, and imo sq suffers too in my experience at times. For most, 2 layers is what I mostly like to use, if power is under 1500w, I’ve been comfortable with a single layer.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

With 5 layers on the spider and I’m sure the surround is thick and on the stiff side, the trade off will be the low end output and efficiency. It takes a lot of juice to move that and a 4” coil. If you are smelling the coil, give it a week mid tilt of play. If after that you still smelling the coils, feel the dust caps to see if they are warm. For an all out spl build, multiple layers on the spider can be ideal as you can use larger enclosures with more control, peak at a higher frequency which is easier to get better numbers etc. it all comes at a cost though, low end will suffer, and imo sq suffers too in my experience at times. For most, 2 layers is what I mostly like to use, if power is under 1500w, I’ve been comfortable with a single layer.

Dust caps are barely warm.

One of the reasons I went to the Evils is SSA said it's a much better "demo sub" compared to the Zcons.

My last 4" coil subs were Tantric SHD 18s and they got pretty damn low.

 

[djdilliodon!]

Dust caps are barely warm.

One of the reasons I went to the Evils is SSA said it's a much better "demo sub" compared to the Zcons.

My last 4" coil subs were Tantric SHD 18s and they got pretty damn low.

Barely warm, fresh coils, smell is normal. Give it a week the smell should stop. They will get a little lower with some play time but it’s not gonna be a night and day difference.

Those tantric subs I’m willing to bet the suspension was much softer.

 

[SbassLaser]

Have you tested with the hatch open to see if it's louder? could be getting cancellation since it's not walled off.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Barely warm, fresh coils, smell is normal. Give it a week the smell should stop. They will get a little lower with some play time but it’s not gonna be a night and day difference.

Those tantric subs I’m willing to bet the suspension was much softer.

I don't remember the suspension setup on the SHDs but they were 5k rms and I had them in my wall for two 21s and they got down.