FEATURED Hyundai Cilantro.. I mean Elantra!

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I'm familiar with what it is and how it works. Missed the part that the other remote is/was assumed to be the thump culprit.

Yeah, it is. I had the amp hooked up before the remote and no on or off thump. The thump only arrived after I added the remote.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Yeah, it is. I had the amp hooked up before the remote and no on or off thump. The thump only arrived after I added the remote

I have one of those for my Soundigital EVOPS 2400.1 (well actually the AudioControl ACR-U ) but same idea/application. Funny, can't remember the last time I actually used it though. One of those things that as long as I think I might, better that it is there - just in case!

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I took out the big knob and installed this lil guy. Works flawlessly and best of all, no turn off thump.

 

[spokey9]

I took out the big knob and installed this lil guy. Works flawlessly and best of all, no turn off thump.

Looks good buddy. Wonder if that thump is a common thing or just a qc fail

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Getting the new subwoofer speaker wires ready. 12awg ofc. Two reds together and two blacks together, ferruled and heat shrunk. This will be the amplifier connection.

edit: My speaker connections are one on each side of the box. That's why I have to double up the wires, to be split off to each side. 1ohm load.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Getting the new subwoofer speaker wires ready. 12awg ofc. Two reds together and two blacks together, ferruled and heat shrunk. This will be the amplifier connection.

edit: My speaker connections are one on each side of the box. That's why I have to double up the wires, to be split off to each side. 1ohm load.

Gotta wonder if there was something wrong with the other knob, anything is possible but hey, love it when simple works out to be better, that's always a bonus!

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Gotta wonder if there was something wrong with the other knob, anything is possible but hey, love it when simple works out to be better, that's always a bonus!

I am going to try a different power source for the big knob eventually. It was tied into the cars switched 12v and not the head units remote turn on lead.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I am going to try a different power source for the big knob eventually. It was tied into the cars switched 12v and not the head units remote turn on lead.

Ah, well, all it takes is a few millisecond differences to create issues. Will be interesting to see if that is it.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Ah, well, all it takes is a few millisecond differences to create issues. Will be interesting to see if that is it.

I am curious.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Well that as they say is that. The Taramps is coming out and the RF Prime 1200D is going back in. It is sad that at 13.6v the Taramps will cut off and reset. There is no clipping at all and I back the gain off even further and it still cut off and reset in the mid 13v range. The RF Prime 1200D never, ever complained or shut off no matter how hard I was bouncing those 10's. So the Smart3 is out and old faithful is going back in. I am going to use the Taramps bass knob though. I like it, smooth and no lights.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I have a Soundigital EVOPS 2400.1 2 ohm that never has any voltage issues. I like full-bridge amplification for subs, but the board design has a lot to do with which full-bridge I went with for sure. I wanted small size and 2 to 3 times the 800 watts total RMS that my 2 Focal 33v2's can take, was a pretty easy. At 1540 watts at 4 ohms, this worked out perfectly and it fits in two palms of my hands.

I'm surprised though, the Smart units are supposed to be better at handling that voltage fluctuation issue that plagued the older Taramps models in the past. I think that the RF is fully regulated and most likely why no issues in the setup you have.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I have a Soundigital EVOPS 2400.1 4 ohm that never has any voltage issues. I like full-bridge amplification for subs, but the board design has a lot to do with it. I'm surprised though, the Smart units are supposed to be better at handling that voltage fluctuation issue that plagued them in the past. I think that the RF is fully regulated and most likely why no issues in the setup you have.

I am feeding it power directly from the Group 31 IOXUS UltraCAP and watching the app on my phone as I was pounding the subs I watched the cap drain to almost half full of power but only drop to 13.6v and the amp said nope, I am gonna reset. The battery under the hood was at 13.8v.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Well then... that's a wrap, or a rapp?
!

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Well then... that's a wrap!

I did notice there is one little resistor on the board that looks suspect on the Smart3. I noticed it the day it arrived. Looks like it got pretty hot. I don't know, you live you learn.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I did notice there is one little resistor on the board that looks suspect on the Smart3. I noticed it the day it arrived. Looks like it got pretty hot. I don't know, you live you learn.

If you need gobs of headroom, that is where the Korean boards excell for sure. With the fullbridge units, you can make it up with extra power, to a point.