Mixing Component Speaker Sets

[Umbra]

Sorry, walls of text ahead. If that turns you off, please, jump to the bottom. Any help would be fantastic.

This is a consolidation of several threads. Those are currently residing in a few different subforums here, but they sort of died. Being the impatient prick that I am, I'm going to take what I've garnered in those other threads and rephrase a couple question here because I'd like to order some stuff tomorrow (later today).

I'd like to put some speakers in the back of a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS. I took the OE 6x9s out because they were literally ripped apart by the two 12" subs in the trunk (sealed). I've left where they were mounted empty to let more bass into the cabin. This worked, especially with the higher frequencies (just south of 80Hz), but

So I can't put speakers in the rear deck because A) they'll sound bad because they're behind the passengers, B) they'll sound bad because the sub SP will toss them around, and C) they'll really sound bad when the sub tears through the surround. I'd still like speakers back there though. I can stick a tweeter in the doors, but I don't think they're deep enough for woofers. So I figured maybe I could build each of the woofers a tiny box and put them under the front seats so they're facing up at the passengers and they wouldn't mess with the front stage too much.

"Why the hell did you title this thread 'Mixing Component Speaker Sets'?"

I've got one pair of components in the front, but I feel they're somewhat lacking in midbass. I've yet to deaden the doors, which would probably help a bit, but a speaker that handles midbass better would probably be a better option. If I'm buying another pair, should it be the same as the front? Would a box aid the midbass?

Finally, back to the rattling trunk and lackluster midbass in the front. I could used some deadener. I've heard good things about all kinds of brands, but I'm eyeing this Damplifier B-Stock, 32 sq. ft. for $85. I know a lot of dampener companies have a thinner and thicker version of the same thing. Here there's Damplifier and Damplifier Pro. When do you need the thicker versions? When you have a shitton of power and want to dampen in fewer applications? I've got 2 12"s on 500W RMS - the regular should suffice, right? 32 sq. ft., if used right, should help a lot, especially in the trunk and front doors.

Sorry for the essay. I don't have a ton of money to splurge on this hobby, so I try to learn what I can to be efficient about it.

tl;dr

​

- Can I use a different set of component speakers in the back?

- Can I stick the rear woofers in boxes and stick those under the seat? If so, what size should the be about? (the detailed tech specs are here in this thread. I tried to calculate it, but failed.

- Damplifer - good stuff? Do I need the Pro version if I've only got two 12"s on 500W RMS?

Any advice you guys could offer would be greatly appreciated. I'm anxious to move ahead with this project and it would be awesome if I could place some orders today.

Click to read more...

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

I've got one pair of components in the front, but I feel they're somewhat lacking in midbass. I've yet to deaden the doors, which would probably help a bit, but a speaker that handles midbass better would probably be a better option.

Wrong. You know your doors should be treated, so do it. If you haven't seen it yet, I have articles that show exactly what to do to reproduce how I treated my doors, with phenomenal results. There are 9 articles, not just the 8 linked in the first post:

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/easy-way-electronics/582552-sound-deadening-articles-ways-treat-doors-more.html

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

speakers will not magically add midbass, the enclosure will magically add midbass, along with proper power. Do it right and you'll go from no midbass whatsover to having midbass that will thump you in the chest. Follow trumpet's guide BUT DO THIS STEP BEFORE ALL OTHER STEPS http://www.513electronics.com/easy-way-electronics-blog/make-your-speakers-sound-better-with-insulation-sound-damping-part-9/

 

[Umbra]

Thank you both. I'm going to read through all these before continuing.

 

[Umbra]

Wrong. You know your doors should be treated, so do it. If you haven't seen it yet, I have articles that show exactly what to do to reproduce how I treated my doors, with phenomenal results. There are 9 articles, not just the 8 linked in the first post:http://www.caraudio.com/forums/easy-way-electronics/582552-sound-deadening-articles-ways-treat-doors-more.html

Thanks for the fantastic guide! The detailed descriptions along with the visual aids will help me a ton moving forward.

Do you recommend both the fiberglass insulation and CLD tiles used in tangent for the doors containing speakers? I can't tell if there are already tiles installed in the ninth article.

I'm definitely going to try most of what's recommended there, especially the insulation and the article involving rope caulk and modeling clay. I had the foresight to used weatherstripping between the speakers and door to create a better seal, but I left all the access holes open, which makes for a poor environment for a speaker.

Since I've yet to figure out where I could put rear speakers, I'll redo the doors in the front in the meantime. I'll probably still get some CLD tiles for the trunk, because that's a mess.

Edit: Did some more research on deadening the trunk area. A lot of people did it and still had rattling, so I'm going to thoroughly go over the area and see if I can isolate places where it rattles. If I can find and fix those spots and I still find it lacking I'll get some dampener.