need advice on box for soundqubed hds312 12" single enclosure

[actionyakson]

so I'm going the cheap route and I'm going to get a soundqubed hds300 bundle once their q1-1200 amps are off backorder (which I'm told should be within the next 2 weeks).

I met a guy in my area that builds boxes for $100 and I'm going to trade him some of my old equipment for him to build me a box.

I was told that anything 2-2.5 cubic feet at 32-36hz would be good for that subwoofer.

I'm trying to minimize space used as my honda prelude is already in short supply of cargo room.

Ideally I'd like to push the box to the back (against the back seat) of my trunk where the area is less wide and less tall then the front of the trunk space.

Approx dimensions are 28" wide, 15" deep, and 14" high/tall. but I think I could squeeze an extra inch on a couple of those measurements and it could be a few inches deeper if necessary.

So far these are the closest designs I've found:

(see attachments)

2@30hz

2@34hz

2@34hz

2.1@32hz

Of these 3 designs, which would an experienced audiophile suggest?

Also I was wondering if there were any other types of boxes recommended.

The box man usually builds slot port boxes but his most recent build was a octoport box, which I haven't really seen many design plans or reviews for so far.

In my research I've also seen adjustable port, aero port, kerf box and other crazy unique designs.

What type would you guys recommend that's relatively simple?

Also do you recommend any type of filling/insulation?

What should I do with the 2 sheets of included Q-MAT? I was told I should spray some sound dampening foam under the license plate and around where the back seat folds down.

Thanks a lot for looking! All advice is appreciated!

Click to read more...

 

[Kelvartis]

I would just have him measure for himself and make what he thinks he can fit (for my civic - I can only fit my box in through the front after I remove the seat).

Personally I'd think the L shaped port would be easier to build than the first design where it doubles back a few times. I like the look of a kerfed port but I don't think it's necessary at all. g'l

 

[CheЯRyMan]

I know when I'm building enclosures locally if I measure it and it does not fit its on me and I rebuild it so let him take the responsibility. If hes unwilling to give you that guarantee stay away from his services. Even if the dimensions are good the lip of the trunk and and inside protrusions could keep it from being able to fit.

 

[actionyakson]

View attachment 26550290

Thanks, I talked to the guy yesterday and he measured my trunk and brought to my attention something that would obstruct the box in the back and he'd have to bring it a little bit further forward. He seemed legit. He showed me pics of several boxes he built and demonstrated his octoport 15" setup in his SUV (attached), which was definitely pretty deep and he said louder then his regular slotted port boxes. He said he usually charges 100 for a slotted box and 140 for the octoported boxes. The guy Edgar works in a woodworking shop and his boxes come sanded and I can paint or seal it if desired.

We're arranging a deal for an octoport where I'm trading him straight up for all my old gear: an ancient beat up alpine type r 12 in a sealed box with in even more ancient 500w soundstream amp and a weak *** jl wo3 12. Should be ready by Friday, but I told him no rush.

Now all I've got to do is to wait for soundqubed to restock their 1200w amps, which they say should be in the next 2 weeks but the website says they were supposed to be restocked in August.

Thank you to everyone for all the feedback and suggestions, it's greatly appreciated! I can't wait to get this stuff!

Only other thing I was wondering is If I decide to upgrade in a year or something, what would be the best way? Just add more of the same sub and amp and wire them together? I'll probably need an extra battery and alternator I guess. I guess I'll have to make friends with a local audio shop or at competition to get help and see it in person myself.

Eventually I think I'll keep adding and upgrading to build a wall in my backseat to be pulling hair tricks on some fine young girls and breaking necks riding through the hood on my way to work.

 

[CSCStang]

This hobby is like crack man. Ask anyone else in this forum. You will be wanting more lol. We'll be here, so jump on here before you start spending more $.

 

[actionyakson]

Also, does anyone know if it would be possible or safe to wire this amp to 0.5 ohm (definitely once they've broken in)??

The speaker is rated to 2400w max and amp rated down to 1 ohm (which I would guess is probably conservative). I've read reviews of the amp on the website with people saying they've run it stably at 0.5, one guys said for 3 years.

What else would I need to consider besides extra heat produced by the amp?

 

[CSCStang]

Also, does anyone know if it would be possible or safe to wire this amp to 0.5 ohm (definitely once they've broken in)??
The speaker is rated to 2400w max and amp rated down to 1 ohm (which I would guess is probably conservative). I've read reviews of the amp on the website with people saying they've run it stably at 0.5, one guys said for 3 years.

What else would I need to consider besides extra heat produced by the amp?

First, you would have to run a d1 sub to get to a .5 ohm load. Second, you have a to very very good electrical to go that low. Just get the d2 wire it parallel to 1 ohm and you'll be good to go man.

 

[actionyakson]

That's kinda what I figured that you could only wire a D2 to 1 ohm, which adds to my confusion/inexperience.

But their website reviews said this:

It's been daily ran at 0.5 ohms since I got it, pushing 1 HDC3 12". 3 years later, it's still kickin and looks brand new with the old AQ logo. i need to buy another one and another HDC3 for my current ride. Maybe one day I'll get my old AQ stuff back. 143db's all day, no problem!

Maybe that's just with the older version AQ AudioQue, idk

and these were written about the 2200 amp:

man that things flexes everything it wire at .5 ohm with a perfect 1 ohm box rise and this thing hammers

and

I run two of these for now on four treo ssx18s...i have dual alts and three batteries....have them running at 1/2 ohm(not recommended)....but these amps have not given me any trouble...they just keep going......i want two more....

But I agree with what you say, I probably shouldn't mess around with that and if I did I'd probably need an extra battery and alternator.

I was mostly just curious and trying to understand how this is possible.

Sorry for all my dumb noob questions!

Also was wondering if I should upgrade with the component bundle, I don't want my music to be drowned out with bass all the time, but I know that the sub comes with an adjustable gain controller knob.

I mean I have aftermarket midrange door speakers installed but no extra amp for that or anything. I guess it will be preference based on what it sounds like when I get it and how high I have the gain adjusted.

I'm just obsessing over this! I keep watching videos on youtube and it's crazy it really is like crack

 

[CSCStang]

That's kinda what I figured that you could only wire a D2 to 1 ohm, which adds to my confusion/inexperience.But their website reviews said this:

It's been daily ran at 0.5 ohms since I got it, pushing 1 HDC3 12". 3 years later, it's still kickin and looks brand new with the old AQ logo. i need to buy another one and another HDC3 for my current ride. Maybe one day I'll get my old AQ stuff back. 143db's all day, no problem!

Maybe that's just with the older version AQ AudioQue, idk

and these were written about the 2200 amp:

man that things flexes everything it wire at .5 ohm with a perfect 1 ohm box rise and this thing hammers

and

I run two of these for now on four treo ssx18s...i have dual alts and three batteries....have them running at 1/2 ohm(not recommended)....but these amps have not given me any trouble...they just keep going......i want two more....

But I agree with what you say, I probably shouldn't mess around with that and if I did I'd probably need an extra battery and alternator.

I was mostly just curious and trying to understand how this is possible.

Sorry for all my dumb noob questions!

Also was wondering if I should upgrade with the component bundle, I don't want my music to be drowned out with bass all the time, but I know that the sub comes with an adjustable gain controller knob.

I mean I have aftermarket midrange door speakers installed but no extra amp for that or anything. I guess it will be preference based on what it sounds like when I get it and how high I have the gain adjusted.

I'm just obsessing over this! I keep watching videos on youtube and it's crazy it really is like crack

Yeah, you're hooked lol. You will want to start upgrading your front stage, but get the sub going and address the front after you save up. To run at .5 ohm, you're looking at appx. 800-1000 bucks in electrical alone.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

builder looks legit enough. Any of the soundqubed amps will hold at .5 ohms if you have the proper electricals I wouldn't try unless you have it lol. If you have space for 2 15s, you can have him build a dual 15 enclosure with seperated chambers and add another 15 later if you wish.