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General Car Audio
Need Guidance for designing my upgrades, Thanks in advance
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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 7342774" data-attributes="member: 576029"><p>(1) the best enclosure is as rigid as possible with no resonance, and properly designed for the subwoofer. the materials you use aren't as important as the application of those materials. fiberglass can be very rigid and allows for more volume in the same space since the wall thickness is so much less. MDF and PLY can also work, but they don't utilize undulating volume very well, and take up more volume anyway. if space is tight - go fiberglass so you get proper airspace, noting there will be MDF rings and ribs for support anyway.</p><p></p><p>(2) any sub properly installed, enclosed, and powered can do what you want. keep in mind that you want to control phase interference and recognize that where you put the sub will determine which cabin modes are excited, and where you sit determines which cabin modes you hear. acoustics 101. same theory applies to cars as it does rooms. the sub location that is closest to the corner will usually be the loudest. impact will come from adequate power handling and power delivery. you get what you pay for. what you get depends on your budget - that is your limiting factor. $250 per sub gets you into decent build quality.</p><p></p><p>(3) again, budget determines what you can get and thus determines performance. sure, some brands are better than others, and your budget will get us in the ballpark. i'm not going to recommend Audison amps if you can't spend a grand on one, ya know? All amps have recommend wire size and fusing. I read owners manuals before I buy something, i recommend you do the same so you can plan accordingly (and so you know what they can actually do). $500 for a good sub amp is about as low as i'd go for new, authorized.</p><p></p><p>(4) there is no sound quality in 4x10's regardless of where they are placed. there is limited sound quality in 6x9's in the doors. think about a sound stage and what is required in a studio to hear a sound stage. think about IID and ITD and how that applies to speaker placement. think about how phase interference (assuming specular reflections) is influenced by the associated arrival times. you know what i'm talking about, so try to apply it in your truck and you will be very happy. your plan to use the Memphis is fine, but I STRONGLY suggest you upgrade your speakers to some good front components with tweeters properly aimed and located - based on listening tests. you can easily move tweeters around while experimenting. you'll notice that the closer a tweeter is to glass, the more harsh it sounds (phase interference). tweeter installation location and aiming determines performance.</p><p></p><p>Here is an install i did for my co-worker, he has been a recording engineer and sound guy as well. This is what it took to make him happy. And he is VERY happy now. he started the build saying "i don't want a sound stage, i want music all around me" and now he says "this is a better soundstage than most studio monitors, i didn't know it was possible in a car". he's hooked.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1805987/page/1#Post1805987" target="_blank">http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1805987/page/1#Post1805987</a></p><p></p><p>With $1500 and a DIY install, you can be happy if you spend money where it counts and keep a focus on the vehicle. I can spend less on gear and more on vehicle treatment and end up with a better sounding system every time. there is a huge selection in your price range. i like supporting local independent shops and i have good relationships with the ones in my area. i can usually get a better deal through them than i can authorized online. what brands/stores do you have around you?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 7342774, member: 576029"] (1) the best enclosure is as rigid as possible with no resonance, and properly designed for the subwoofer. the materials you use aren't as important as the application of those materials. fiberglass can be very rigid and allows for more volume in the same space since the wall thickness is so much less. MDF and PLY can also work, but they don't utilize undulating volume very well, and take up more volume anyway. if space is tight - go fiberglass so you get proper airspace, noting there will be MDF rings and ribs for support anyway. (2) any sub properly installed, enclosed, and powered can do what you want. keep in mind that you want to control phase interference and recognize that where you put the sub will determine which cabin modes are excited, and where you sit determines which cabin modes you hear. acoustics 101. same theory applies to cars as it does rooms. the sub location that is closest to the corner will usually be the loudest. impact will come from adequate power handling and power delivery. you get what you pay for. what you get depends on your budget - that is your limiting factor. $250 per sub gets you into decent build quality. (3) again, budget determines what you can get and thus determines performance. sure, some brands are better than others, and your budget will get us in the ballpark. i'm not going to recommend Audison amps if you can't spend a grand on one, ya know? All amps have recommend wire size and fusing. I read owners manuals before I buy something, i recommend you do the same so you can plan accordingly (and so you know what they can actually do). $500 for a good sub amp is about as low as i'd go for new, authorized. (4) there is no sound quality in 4x10's regardless of where they are placed. there is limited sound quality in 6x9's in the doors. think about a sound stage and what is required in a studio to hear a sound stage. think about IID and ITD and how that applies to speaker placement. think about how phase interference (assuming specular reflections) is influenced by the associated arrival times. you know what i'm talking about, so try to apply it in your truck and you will be very happy. your plan to use the Memphis is fine, but I STRONGLY suggest you upgrade your speakers to some good front components with tweeters properly aimed and located - based on listening tests. you can easily move tweeters around while experimenting. you'll notice that the closer a tweeter is to glass, the more harsh it sounds (phase interference). tweeter installation location and aiming determines performance. Here is an install i did for my co-worker, he has been a recording engineer and sound guy as well. This is what it took to make him happy. And he is VERY happy now. he started the build saying "i don't want a sound stage, i want music all around me" and now he says "this is a better soundstage than most studio monitors, i didn't know it was possible in a car". he's hooked. [URL="http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1805987/page/1#Post1805987"]http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1805987/page/1#Post1805987[/URL] With $1500 and a DIY install, you can be happy if you spend money where it counts and keep a focus on the vehicle. I can spend less on gear and more on vehicle treatment and end up with a better sounding system every time. there is a huge selection in your price range. i like supporting local independent shops and i have good relationships with the ones in my area. i can usually get a better deal through them than i can authorized online. what brands/stores do you have around you? [/QUOTE]
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Need Guidance for designing my upgrades, Thanks in advance
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