Need help with my Adire Audio Tempest set-up.

dan7532
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
I plan on purchasing an Adire Audio Tempest 15” sub and need help in getting everything right for it.

1. Amplifier

Would the U.S. acoustics USC-2150 be a good amp to match the tempest? It’s 150w x2 at 4ohms, 250w x2 at 2ohms, and 480w at 4ohms when bridged (the Tempest can be wired for 4ohms). My logic is that this sub would be great bridged for the Tempest and later on, if I decide to go with more powerful subs, I’ll get a new amp for the powerful subs and use this amp for my front two speakers. What do you think? Here’s a link: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-CDpYZgSiHEd/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?a=&s=0&cc=01&g=110&id=essential_info&i=235USC2150

It’s $150

And 480w isn’t going to put a heavy load on my alternator, will it? I hope there won’t be any dimming lights or anything serious. Will my ten-year-old alternator on my 4-cyl. 626 be alright?

2. Wiring

The U.S. acoustics says it need 8g wiring and cruchfield recommends this kit for $30: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-CDpYZgSiHEd/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?wm=fa&I=211AK8

That or I’ll get the Wal-mart amp wiring kit for $25: http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.gsp?product_id=1863080

3. Box

So I buy ¾” MDF, correct? Would 1” be any better? I’ll get a sheet and have my dad make the cuts. I just came inside from measuring my trunk here’s the figures:

Height from floor to rear speakers = 18 inches (I can remove my rear speakers if necessary, I’ll unplug them anyway)

Width between wheel wells = approx. 38.5 inches or 38 inches

Minimum depth (sloping seatbacks) from seatback to taillight = approx 31 inches

I plan on a ported box, with OLD_SCHOOL’s advice, that’s 4 cubic feet with a port tuned to about 27 Hz.

If you guys have any ideas for box plans, you can e-mail me at dan7532@swbell.net, PM me, or post it right here. (In case supa_c asks, I already PM’d old_school //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsupwink.gif.129404938effda6ad9cca39e7f4b58a3.gif )

And here’s my headunit (has to do with wiring): http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/product/detail/0,,2076_4039_34478_tab=B,00.html?compName=PNA_ProductDetailComponent

It is a Pioneer DEH-P545 (came with the car when we bought it used). Pioneer’s site says it has “RCA Preouts (x2 pair) (Front/Rear)” Unfortunately, I have no owner’s manual for it and it’s the one faceplate out of millions on Pionner’s site that doesn’t have an online owner’s manual.

I’ve already used the search button, thanks. And if you don’t like my thread and think it’s redundant, leave. Posting complaints about it only bumps it to the top of the list. For everyone else that is kind enough to read and reply, thank you for your time. If you need any more information to determine a conclusion, let me know.

 
Did you PM Old school !j/k //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

ill edit this in a sec and answer the Q's
LOL I swear you had that reply typed before I even had my post finished!

And nevermind about being scared of e-bay. If you know any good deals going, post them please. I've changed my mind (I was pretty cautious at first, but came to my senses). The only requirements I have for an amp is that it be about 400w or a little more at 4ohm mono, and it'd be nice if it was a 2-channel so I could use it for front speakers later on. Otherwise, I have NO IDEA what amp to get. I don't know anything about the brands and hardly know the features. If you find a good deal that works, I'll go with it (I should have earlier).

And if I want to adjust the power of the sub while I'm driving, is that possible? Because I go from rap, where I want HEAVY bass to punk, where I don't need nearly as much bass. What controller should I use to do that?

 
One thing that you may want to consider is getting a class D amp that is more powerful than you need. This way you would save yourself from getting an A/B amp that costs more per watt.

Ok, this sounds dumb....but you could wire the amp to 4 ohms now, and if you upgrade subs/get another one later, you can just wire them down and not have to worry about upgrading subs and amps at the same time.

Just a suggestion.

 
One thing that you may want to consider is getting a class D amp that is more powerful than you need. This way you would save yourself from getting an A/B amp that costs more per watt.
Ok, this sounds dumb....but you could wire the amp to 4 ohms now, and if you upgrade subs/get another one later, you can just wire them down and not have to worry about upgrading subs and amps at the same time.
I totally forgot about that. Stupid me. Thanks for the heads-up.

You will have to get a sub amp if you want control over the bass.They come with a remote gain knob.
OK, so I'll get a class D mono amp made for a sub. What do you recommend for one tempest or what good deals have you found lately?

And when an amp says it requires a certain gauge wiring, does it matter if I use the wiring from that amp kit you suggested, supa_c?

 
What kind of sub-stage are your running off of that wal-mart kit?

And another question for everybody. I plan on getting a grille to protect my 15" tempest from stuff in my trunk. What is a good one that you would suggest. I'm looking for maximum protection and don't care about looks.

 
firstly you don't need anything near 1000 watts for one temepst somethign gives 400 will be plenty.

any mono giving that kind of power @ 4 ohms will work just fine.

wallmart kit will work fine

and get with me and we can draw a box out for that 4 cubes and ported to around 27Hz if thats what you like

 
You will have to get a sub amp if you want control over the bass.They come with a remote gain knob.

No he wouldn't: http://www.davidnavone.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=N-22V, works with any amp, just goes in-line with the RCA's.

Don't worry about all that class A/B, class D stuff. Just get an amp that is in your budget and gives you the power you need. I hooked up a US Acoustics amp in my buddies truck; great amp for the money.

 
What kind of sub-stage are your running off of that wal-mart kit?
And another question for everybody. I plan on getting a grille to protect my 15" tempest from stuff in my trunk. What is a good one that you would suggest. I'm looking for maximum protection and don't care about looks.
For a nice grill, go to http://www.partsexpress.com and search for grill. Go through there and you can find a nice one with four bars for just 8$. I use 'em and they do the job. You can also get those crazy Tsunami ones for $40 or w/e.

 
So the wal-mart kit has ALL the wires I need for one tempest? And what is the name of the part where the wires from the subs come out through the box?

Should I secure my sub box to my car so it doesn't slide around? I'm known for my occasional "spirited" driving. What can I say, my Mazda sure can carve a corner.

And I'll make sure to use odd-ball screws such as allen and torque (sp?) screws to mess up any potential thieves.

For putting together my box, I'll need wood and what else? What size wood screws? What is the name of the stuff I should use to seal the box? Some sort of caulk, right?

So total parts list so far is:

1 Tempest

3/4" MDF sheet

Screws

A sort of caulk

Wal-mart wiring kit

An amp (haven't decided on one yet)

A grill for my tempest (don't want my jumper cables or my tool kit hurting my sub)

The thing that holds the sub wires in the box enclosure

And I won't use carpet, I'll just spray-paint the box black. And here's a little joke I have thought up for anyone who has heard Dane Cook (comedian) before: The box will be black and in white lettering above the sub I'll write "THE WOOFER" It'll be hilarious to anyone who knows what I'm talking about.

 
LOL

" The woofer"

even though i have no clue what thats from its still funny.

Also,

Either wood glue or some sort of wood adhesive.

Some silicone or fibreglass resin to seal it up so there is no leaks

 
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dan7532

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