Need opinions on favorite SPL subwoofers

[Shane361]

It would be helpful if he defined it to eliminate speculation. That's my point. Sorry not trying to give you a hard time.

Understandable man, we're good! I see your point, I just sorta read around it I guess. Detailed information is always best.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Did you hear them all in the same setup to make an accurate comparison? I didn't think so. One sub in one setup and another sub in another setup isn't comparing them on a level field.

Wtf are you talking about? How would I hear all of those subs in the same setup? The subs that I listed are all great SPL subs and I have heard them all (multiple times). I'll even add the American Bass HD line to the ones that I already have posted.

 

[KicktheSDbasshead]

Deaf bonce or sundown IMO the x line of SD and the sa line of dB

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Do you want pure SPL or really loud music? You want to figure out what bandwidth you want the sub to play. You might want to find out the peak resonance of your vehicle, too. A properly designed sub box will typically be loud across a wide range, if the woofers are of decent quality.

Based on all of my experience, I really like the inherent design style of DC woofers. You typically have strong motors, good throw and cone area, but they have a relatively soft suspension. The small box size + the strong motor + the normal cone size = musically loud bass. Woofers that want smaller boxes can sometimes inherently play more loudly and evenly across an entire musical bandwidth, just due to the way the small airspace dampens the cone movement, vs a larger box sub that might have greater peaks and dips due to air damping/impedance factors that are related to ported boxes unloading away from tuning.

There’s other woofers that would probably meet this criteria besides DC. DC’s just seem to be really good and powerful in their relatively small boxes. I really like using them in series 6th order bandpasses, because you can fit a ton of motor force and cone area in something like a b-pillar wall, vs a bunch of 12’s that need .5-1 cubic feet more airspace per woofer.

At the end of the day, it’s usually all about box design and amplifier quality, including quality of signal and enough solid voltage to power through impedance changes with a ported box at all the different frequencies. For being loud, box design, maintaining high DC voltage, and amp quality are typically more important than really nice subs. I can take an $80 or whatever Q Power deluxe and be louder with a good amp and box than say someone a $500 sub that’s underpowered and unloading or starved for proper wave-energy flow.

Just make sure you truly have the space for doing a proper box for whatever subs you pick. You might try to fit a 4000w 15” in the trunk, too. That might be an option.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I’ve personally done some stupid single 4” VC 15’s in trunk cars (for customers), and sometimes a single 15” on stupid wattage is stupid untouchable. You gotta make sure you have enough space to flow around the box, if the port is firing to the rear. Sometimes people can fit 2 12’s in a trunk, but there’s not enough surface area around the box for the very high pressure port air to even make it into the cabin. Make sure you don’t stuff it in there too much, giggity. Your power level is probably going to require a larger port, and on a single 15 on 4000w, that port can take up 1/3 of the box space easily, so keep that in mind. There’s a ton of factors to that last statement, but people forget high powered setups need large ports, and large ports take up large air spaces.