Please advise for setup help

[hanyoung]

Vehicle: 2013 Sienna with stock HU with Nav

Source: mp3 running off usb drive input

Changes: I replaced the 2 front door speakers with JL Audio 6x9 C2 series. I also used raamat and ensolite to the two front doors.

Complaints: I don't feel like the sound is clean or loud enough. Also minimal bass. Car also has significant road noise.

Budget: $500 for everything

Requirements: would like to keep cargo space

Options:

Option #1 - 4ch amp to power the two front speakers, and bridge to power the subwoofer.

Amps looking at: Alpine MRP-F300, JL Audio JX360/4 (both around $120-150)

External subwoofer: Pioneer 10" Flat subwoofer ($160)

Amp install kit: 4 Ga - $30

Questions: could I use the HU to power the two rear speakers? These are meant to be filler, and are difficult to replace due to unusual size. Could I still use the HU Fader capability?

Option #2 - 4 ch amp to power all four speakers, and try and upgrade rear speakers

Option #3 - same as above, but then purchase powered external sub. Options include Sound Ordinance 8 ($150), or Infinity basslink ($180)

Option #4- Monoblock amp and 2 10" subs. Local car audio shop has a JL package for $500. No amp to speakers

Any other ideas? Thank you!

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[Kingstroker 10+ year member]

#2 , it's something you can build on if it's not enough. I takes an amp to make speakers really shine, more detail, depth and over all richer sound.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

I vote for option 1. Its what I did in my Camry and its really easy to do and get a decent sound from with an easy and clean install.

But, I wouldn't do the flat Pioneer sub.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Option 1.5

You can up your 4 channel amp budget and get an amp that supports this following setup

You could wire both your left front and back speakers in parallel on channel 1, and your right front and back speakers in parallel on channel 2. That would create a 2 ohm load on each channel, so the amp would produce lets say for example: 100 watts, which would be divided between the speakers so each speaker gets 50 watts.

Channels 3 and 4 would be bridged to power the 4-ohm subwoofer at for example 200 watts.

as for the pioneer sub.... you can get this Amazon.com: SA-8 D4 - Sundown Audio 8" Dual 4-Ohm SA Series Subwoofer: Electronics for less and it sounds waaay better soundwise and strength wise and takes up as much space as 1.0 cubic feet in a small sealed box that you can conceal under the seats.

 

[admobass]

What kind of music do you listen to? What are the settings on your source? Have you had a system before or are trying to compare the sound to something you have heard in a friends vehicle?

 

[admobass]

But I would go option 1 then upgrade from there if need be. If those are your only options.

 

[hanyoung]

Thanks for the advice, lots of great ideas.

I listen to wide variety of music, from classic rock, alt rock, occ hip hop, and vocals.

In terms of the sundown subwoofer. Reason I went pioneer flat, is because it comes enclosed in a flat box, and I can face down so that I don't lose any cargo space.

I will start with the basics with the 4 channel and proceed from there, pending your approval! Thanks again.

 

[Kingstroker 10+ year member]

looks like your headed in the right direction. Don't know if I would wire front and back speakers together, it would completely eliminate any sound stage or imaging. You would also loose front to back fade control. If you aren't in a rush you might find a 4 ch on hear at a good price. Just saw a Sundown 100.4 go for $150.

 

[hanyoung]

Help! My ears are bleeding!

I got the car back today from the car audio shop. I went with the JL Audio 360x4 channel amp, 4Ga wiring kit, and Pioneer flat subwoofer. Remember that this is off of my Stock HU (due to Nav, BT, and Rear view camera). The shop explained to me that they would use the speaker outs of the amp, and from what I understand have wires from Ch 1-2 to my front speakers via the stock HU (and therefore not have to go into the front doors and directly wire. I asked, "a loop?" and they said yes. Another option was to use a line out converter (they quoted me $100), but they didn't think it would improve the quality of the sound coming from the HU.

Channels 3-4 are bridged to my subwoofer (this they did use direct speaker wire).

On the receipt they noted "small alternator whine." What! It is literally making my ears bleed, a very high pitched noise that increases with acceleration and may not be noticeable with the volume cranked but drives me crazy when the stereo is off. I did some research, and followed the amp power line (4Ga through the firewall and to my positive battery terminal), and the ground (short distance, to a drilled hole in exposed sheet metal of the driver kick plate). The speaker wire to the subwoofer also does go along this kick plate. One thing I should mention is that I also have a HID kit that is powered by the positive terminal of the battery. I replaced the ground to a bolt of the sheetmetal on the kick plate, still same problem.

When the car is on (but engine off), very minimal background sound. When the engine is on, even if the audio is off, the whine is unbearable. I took it back immediately, and they recommended adding a LOC, and then a filter to block out the sound. My question is:

1. Will this eliminate the whine?

2. Anything else I should check? I think the car is grounded properly.

3. Could my HID power source affect the whine given that the terminals are in contact?

4. I've noticed that when I start my engine, the initial engine turn sound and alternator starting are significantly louder.

5. Please help, I'm going crazy. Should I just install a LOC? This loop with the speaker out is very confusing to me.

 

[hanyoung]

Allright, doing some research my HID ballasts may be causing a magnetic field? May try a ground loop isolator? Otherwise, I don't think it's worth it... will have them take everything out.

 

[hanyoung]

So confusing. The internet is definitely not the place to google for alternator whine //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Is it unrealistic to have an amp to a stock HU not have alternator whine?

 

[hanyoung]

Problem fixed!

Rerouted the input wires which helped greatly.

Then added LOC w RCAs and GL block. Sound good and actually so much cleaner than before (even stock with upgraded speakers)

I'm guessing that our Factory NAV HU has some pretty dirty sound output.

Thanks for the help!

 

[bumpasauras 10+ year member]

Might try a jl audio clean sweep so u can do rca's