Proposed Setup, tell me what you think

the advert/product info implies that it offers multi-dimensional functionality... multiple features... but from what I gather it's basically an active crossover with peq functions that's pretty customizable using the software. the price is cheap, I have a computer, I like graphs, so it seems like a good fit. You can time align as well and do other stuff but screen shots of the interface look appealing.
I've immersed myself and read hundreds of articles in the past week and Im enjoying it.

The amp looks nice. The price on the ssa you mentioned is around 125, unless there is a better model I missed. I have heard focal before and really enjoyed the sound. I don't know what line though, I do know it was not utopia or anything that expensive. The reviews are good. What is the best ssa dcon I could get at a similar price point?
yea i couldnt remember the price on the dcon but that sounds bout right. idk much about focal except that the highs are a little harsh for my ears. ive never had the opportunity to hear a focal sub "in" a car so i can really supply input on it but i know the ssa is a tried and true favorite that i have used several times.

sound-deadener is a must at least on the front doors, deck lid and front floor boards trust me its worth every penny

any link for the mini dsp now u have my sq ears perked up and standing attention

 
yea i couldnt remember the price on the dcon but that sounds bout right. idk much about focal except that the highs are a little harsh for my ears. ive never had the opportunity to hear a focal sub "in" a car so i can really supply input on it but i know the ssa is a tried and true favorite that i have used several times.
sound-deadener is a must at least on the front doors, deck lid and front floor boards trust me its worth every penny

any link for the mini dsp now u have my sq ears perked up and standing attention
focal is good for sq and so is Boston acoustics

 
70 dollar pioneer 6x9s that's not sq at all and y would u need a 1250wrms from sub dcons are not really sq subs but focals are sq subs go with the focal for 250
ssa dcons arent really sq subs but they are some of the best sounding subs for there price point and since focal is generally ridiculously expensive my guess is that that model is as sq oriented as the upper line so i will not retract my suggestion of the dcon over the focal. it cheaper from a good company mad in the usa and is tried and true not a new model that supposed to be value oriented, but a wattage group based sub.

id put it up against a jl w3 anyday

 
The only thing I can say is don't cheap out on anything. Including the head unit! Arguably the most important part of your system. It sounds like you've got enough cash to do it right the 1st time. Good luck!

 
MiniDSP Kits | miniDSP . Runs on a pc or mac. You purchase the firmware separately for $10. Some options go to 400 for extra features, but the base unit has a lot of features. There's even an auto-eq feature that requires download of additional software (free) but no specific mic is recommended so I don't know how you'd compensate for the freq. response of mic unless you spring for a "flat" mic.

I just looked at it some more and the program (REW) has some built in calibration tools for the mic and soundcard.

///edit///

Apparently you need a mic for which a correction file has been designed. These files and the REW software strangely require joining a forum in order to download(just did this). The links are on the applications page of the dsp site. There are three to choose from and the Behringer ECM8000 goes for 45 on amazon. So a base model mini-dsp with housing(you can get a naked board for 99) runs 125 +10 for firmware plus 45 for a mic for the auto-eq. 180 for the whole thing or 315 total for 4 more outputs. You can daisy chain them, though I'm not sure what for.

 
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Figure out what kind of car you're going to buy BEFORE you start planning out your system. Additionally, you may find a car a little out of your price range and use your 'system budget' to buy it.

The things to worry about, really, is how much space you're willing to sacrifice for your system and the size/location of the front speakers & tweets. Figure those out and then plan your system. Putting together a really slick SQ system for under $1000 is child's play if you don't mind used equipment.

 
Pending approval of moderator? .. did I sound like a sales rep or something? Ok weird... it didn't take my first post.

Basically there is some bogus merchandise that is being sold as mb quart stateside. Is sonicelectronix a reputable dealer?

 
Sonix is solid. From the first few posts it seems you were really focused on JL gear which is a fine product.... just you end up paying WAY more for what you're getting. Not worth retail cost in the least. Most the gear on here and similar forums is perfectly safe to buy used as long as you're buying from a reputable dealer. For instance, what you have planned out for your 2k budget, I would say is pretty comparable to my $600 system, except I bought used, and didn't buy the super huge name-brands.

 
$1200 is a nice budget for a solid car audio system. It's strange though you start design by.. looking at bass speakers.. I'd say that part is the easiest to get right.

However, this budget is still kind of tight for a complete SQ system. I would say, to save some cash go with a single quality 5-channel amplifier. Get something very solid. My personal favorites on tight budget are:

Alpine MRX-V60

Kenwood XR-5S

Precision Power "Power Class"

I prefer to use amplifiers that have excellent results based on third party measurements (and not just the wattage, but other specs as well, like THD, channel separation, efficiency, etc), and these had performed excellent on the benches.

A five channel amplifier can be used in a variety of ways. 2-way active front stage+subwoofer. Front+rear+subwoofer. Bridged for front+subwoofer, etc.

In terms of front speakers, get something nice at once instead of looking for "the great $100 bargain" only to replace it later. Some nice 2-way speakers to run in passive mode are Focal Polyglass 165 V30 and Hybrid Audio Unity. It's often possible to find Focals locally at around $400 and the HAT's cost $350 online. If you would like to play with active fronts, I could recommend Hybrid Audio Imagine. They are basically like Unity, but with a primitive passive crossover (and it doesn't matter, since they will be run active, but they're much cheaper than Unity). I have had great success with these HAT Imagines running active off an MB Quart amplifier (with a 2.2uF capacitor inline for the tweeters). Running active means that I can level match the volume of the tweeters and woofers, and also use time alignment on tweeters and woofers separately from each other. The results are pretty good.

Stereo: My personal preference is to have a stereo with these three things: bluetooth, time alignment, rear usb port.

Sub stage: With a 5-channel amplifier, you're usually limited to having 250-350watts of power running to subwoofers, so you need to choose a subwoofer accordingly. I would have picked two 10 inch Dayton Audio HF subwoofers (the 4ohm version), wire them in parallel, and run then in a 1.5cu ft sealed box. These are among the best SQ drivers that also have very good sensitivity. I also would not hesitate to run a single 12 inch Image Dynamic IDQv3 or Infinity Kappa 120.9w on this kind of power.

Midbass: IMO.. skip the dedicated midbass driver. Start with nice 2-way speakers in front, and a good subwoofer. Decide later if you need a dedicated midbass. I run HAT Imagine 2-way speakers in my car and a 12 inch subwoofer, and I really do fell like I have more midbass now than I really need.

Wiring kit: StreetWires 4awg kit should be enough (the one that comes with 150amp fuse, not the 100amp one). Price is around $60-$80 online.

 
Unless, like BnGRacing pointed out, I have to dip into "audio funds" //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif to get the car I need, I'm willing to go to 2k. Thanks for the advice, I'll check those options out. Those daytons have good reviews. Im sure the focals would be nice, but I'd like to hear them first. I hate shrill ear bleeders. I could find a store. May have to drive to the metro.

What is a good THD rating? What's a better one? I remember when I first saw amps and the money people dropped on them. Was hard to believe that they all perform so differently. Channel seperation? I saw these features, but I don't know what they are. google time.

Currently considering an MB quart amp I found. Part of the same series of speakers I'm looking at. I am considering holding off on the midbass and seeing how well things perform without it. I wouldn't end up with too much midbass, I don't think, since I intend to eq everthing. I thought it would be much cleaner with the dedicated drivers covering that narrow band.

 
the lower the thd the better though many people wont notice 1% thd if you want pure sound quality it suggest the soundstream reference amps they have some of the best specs u can fine for sq. channel separation is normally never even thought of but in a fully active setup the higher the number here the more accurate you time alignment can actually be since this is the measurement of the differences from left to right and how much seepage you get left to right as well as front to rear.

 
Line driver question:

I have read that one use of a line driver is to boost signal thereby not making it necessary to increase the gains to the point of introducing additional noise. I am looking at miniDSP's which are reported to have low voltage output and so I am considering using a line driver if it will mean less distortion.

Assuming this is true, how is this possible? If a line driver boosts the voltage wouldn't that make it an amp? and wouldn't it introduce noise that would get amplified resulting in no net change?

It just seems that a line driver will also "drive" existing noise as well, introduce its own noise, and submit the final product for further amplification... thereby invalidating its implementation as a means to use less gain and get less noise. Or to say it differently its a pre-gain gain. Is not all gain created equal, or are line drivers a lesser of gain evils?

Thank you

 
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