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Car Audio Equipment
Amplifiers
Speaker Amp Not Turning On
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8863933" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>Correction, I fuse most HU remotes should have been the read, not that most are fused, just something I do. Roughly .5 amps to one, multiplied by the number of turn-ons needed. With the advent of processors that have the ability to power most peripheral units, not so much a concern anymore. Little wires can overheat and melt too, just prudent in my book. I still can't figure out why you are having issues getting a determination though. I would start over. You can check the amps operability by using two hot leads, plain and simple. I use this technique using a simple 25 amp Pyramid power supply, you can do it from the main battery, then the 2nd one for $hit$ and giggle's.</p><p></p><p>(you know what is said, everything is $hit$ giggles until someone giggles and $hit$)</p><p></p><p>With the amp grounded, disconnected from the signal and the power. Input a basic 16 gauge lead connected to the main battery, then, take a separate lead also connected to the same main battery (splitting the one used at the end or using a 16 gauge speaker wire for the two leads works) and touch it with the 2nd lead or daisy chain it from a single lead, to the remote input on the amp. If it turns on and off when the 2nd hot lead is connected and removed from the remote input on the amp, then the amp is working as it should and the problem is with the remote lead. If that results in intermittent turn on and off, (it doesn't always turn it on) there is a problem with the amp (which would include a bad amplifier ground or remote turn on circuit). I don't see how it can be any other way. You have an amp or a hot/remote lead source issue, one or the other.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8863933, member: 689267"] Correction, I fuse most HU remotes should have been the read, not that most are fused, just something I do. Roughly .5 amps to one, multiplied by the number of turn-ons needed. With the advent of processors that have the ability to power most peripheral units, not so much a concern anymore. Little wires can overheat and melt too, just prudent in my book. I still can't figure out why you are having issues getting a determination though. I would start over. You can check the amps operability by using two hot leads, plain and simple. I use this technique using a simple 25 amp Pyramid power supply, you can do it from the main battery, then the 2nd one for $hit$ and giggle's. (you know what is said, everything is $hit$ giggles until someone giggles and $hit$) With the amp grounded, disconnected from the signal and the power. Input a basic 16 gauge lead connected to the main battery, then, take a separate lead also connected to the same main battery (splitting the one used at the end or using a 16 gauge speaker wire for the two leads works) and touch it with the 2nd lead or daisy chain it from a single lead, to the remote input on the amp. If it turns on and off when the 2nd hot lead is connected and removed from the remote input on the amp, then the amp is working as it should and the problem is with the remote lead. If that results in intermittent turn on and off, (it doesn't always turn it on) there is a problem with the amp (which would include a bad amplifier ground or remote turn on circuit). I don't see how it can be any other way. You have an amp or a hot/remote lead source issue, one or the other. [/QUOTE]
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