Speaker Amp Not Turning On

[Chickenmilk98]

My speaker amp will not turn on unless both the trigger wire and main power both come from the same battery. It was running power from a deep cycle and a trigger from the headunit but that will not turn it on. It will only power up if it has constant power from the same source as the main power. I am confused as why this is as it was running off two beforehand.

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

If the amp powers on with both the amp remote input and the amp 12v power on a constant 12v, then something happened to the remote 12v line. Check to see if there is a fuse between the amp and the HU that has blown on your remote lead. Most HU's remote outs are fused.

 

[Chickenmilk98]

If the amp powers on with both the amp remote input and the amp 12v power on a constant 12v, then something happened to the remote 12v line. Check to see if there is a fuse between the amp and the HU that has blown on your remote lead. Most HU's remote outs are fused.

already ran a new wire from the headunit remote to the amp and gets 12v at the both ends but amp wont turn on

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

To take the system wiring out of the picture, disconnect the power and remote leads on the amp. Get a long piece of 16 gauge speaker wire, split and strip an inch off both ends, twist one end together. Take the end that is split, hook one each of the split end into one each, of the power and the remote input on the amp. Then touch the twisted end to the battery positive. If the amp fires up, something with your power or remote leads to the amp input feeds are the issue. You can test which one by swapping out one or the other of the split end alternating the constant and the remote with the constant speaker wire lead you made that is connected to the battery and that will tell you which one it is. If nothing happens when you have two hot leads going to the amp, the amp has an issue.

 

[Chickenmilk98]

To take the system wiring out of the picture, disconnect the power and remote leads on the amp. Get a long piece of 16 gauge speaker wire, split and strip an inch off both ends, twist one end together. Take the end that is split, hook one each of the split end into one each, of the power and the remote input on the amp. Then touch the twisted end to the battery positive. If the amp fires up, something with your power or remote leads to the amp input feeds are the issue. You can test which one by swapping out one or the other of the split end alternating the constant and the remote with the constant speaker wire lead you made that is connected to the battery and that will tell you which one it is. If nothing happens when you have two hot leads going to the amp, the amp has an issue.

So that amp fires up when you split that power lead into the remote and power. But it won't work if that remote comes from the start battery and the main power on the 2nd. In short both the remote and main power have to be on the same battery or it doesn't power up. Seems silly but that what is happening. I was running it previously remoted from headunit ( starter) and power from deep cycle ( 2nd) and worked.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

I was running it previously remoted from headunit ( starter) and power from deep cycle ( 2nd) and worked.

The remote is a circuit that needs both polarities to complete a circuit. If the main positive is supplied from a different battery that circuit is not completed.
Two ways to fix it would be to parallel the batteries or to add a relay. The relay contacts would run from amp's positive to amp's remote while it's power would come from car's positive, negative, and remote.

 

[HardofWhoring]

So that amp fires up when you split that power lead into the remote and power. But it won't work if that remote comes from the start battery and the main power on the 2nd. In short both the remote and main power have to be on the same battery or it doesn't power up. Seems silly but that what is happening. I was running it previously remoted from headunit ( starter) and power from deep cycle ( 2nd) and worked.

Are you using an isolator?

They don't need to be on the same battery, but how do you have this hooked up? If you have the other battery just for the starter, that's just in crank. Accessories don't work in crank, nothing else does.

 

[Chickenmilk98]

The remote is a circuit that needs both polarities to complete a circuit. If the main positive is supplied from a different battery that circuit is not completed.
Two ways to fix it would be to parallel the batteries or to add a relay. The relay contacts would run from amp's positive to amp's remote while it's power would come from car's positive, negative, and remote.

So if i had a realy that has main power from the Deep cycle ( Lithuim ) remote wire from headunit (AGM) and than ground and than a wire going to my amps that would than work ? For reference i have a deep cycle Lithuim in the rear that powers all my sound systems and ect but it has no igition souce to turn the amps on and i have a remote lead already run from cranking starter battery (AGM)

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

So if i had a realy that has main power from the Deep cycle ( Lithuim ) remote wire from headunit (AGM) -??- and than ground and than a wire going to my amps that would than work ? For reference i have a deep cycle Lithuim in the rear that powers all my sound systems and ect but it has no igition souce to turn the amps on and i have a remote lead already run from cranking starter battery (AGM)



If the HU remote is working, that would be the remote lead you should use. In the end, you need to use a positive lead from your HU, a realy or by tapping into any ignition triggered lead available. The remote turn on for the amp is simply an on/off switch, that's all. In your home, the current (which is hot all the time like your cars power lead to the amp) and is activated to your lights via a switch on the wall, the remote turn on is the light switch for the amp. When the key is inserted and turned, that sends 12 (low voltage) power to anything that needs to be turned on. However you accomplish that, it should be fine. Use the lead from the 2nd battery for the power to the amp(s). Regarding the hoe lead from the battery, which battery, not the battery type is the relevant factor here.

 

[Chickenmilk98]

A remote lead from the headunit will not turn these amps on as they power from the deep cycle is a lithuim battery and creates a voltage difference. I've ran 3 remote wires to test all have voltage and they cannot turn the amp on, unless its from the same power source as the main power wire.

remote from AGM
Main from AGM works fine

remote from AGM
Main from Lithuim no boot

remote from Lithuim
Main from lithuim works fine, but power constant no remote from that battery.

I want to run it from the lithuim as its a deep cycle and i can run it for ages without car draining.

 

[spokey9]

Run the remote wire from your to a switch where it's easy to get to then back to your amps...that way you can turn off the amps

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

So if i had a realy

Pin30 amp's remote, Pin87 amp's power, Pin86 car's ground, Pin85 radio's remote wire.

Just to make sure this will work, I ask you; Does the amp turn on if you put a jumper from the amp's positive the the amp's remote screw?

 

[HardofWhoring]

If the amp powers on with both the amp remote input and the amp 12v power on a constant 12v, then something happened to the remote 12v line. Check to see if there is a fuse between the amp and the HU that has blown on your remote lead. Most HU's remote outs are fused.

No they absolutely are not. I have never seen one that is. Please find JUST ONE head unit that has a fused remote out wire.


The usually max out at 300-500 millivolts.

Pin30 amp's remote, Pin87 amp's power, Pin86 car's ground, Pin85 radio's remote wire.

Just to make sure this will work, I ask you; Does the amp turn on if you put a jumper from the amp's positive the the amp's remote screw?

Yes do this, to make sure it works. If you do this, and this works, then get a test light, and check the remote wire to battery. Depending on the size of wire you used, and how it's ran, the wire itself may have gotten damaged, and internally broke the strands without you even being able to see it. You can theoretically use I think it's 24awg wire, but it's so small you run the risk of breaking it, just by feeding it through a few places. 16awg is what is usually recommended, and only going that large because of the physical dimensions of the wire, and the less likelihood of damaging it even when you're being careful.



OP
If you have your deep cycle battery connected to the starter, how is it wired? If you have the remote inline with the starter, then you're never going to complete a circuit on the battery unless the ignition switch is cranking, and you're amps wouldn't get power then.

There's absolutely no reason to have those connected straight to either battery. They are only about a couple hundred millivolts each. You could connect those to anything and have them work, and they would never notice the draw. If you just have one amp, then check both the connections as stated earlier. If your amp comes on when you connect the 12v to the remote wire, (just a short jumper at the terminal next to it to test), then you need to double check the wire. A test light will tell you if you're getting voltage at the end of the wire. If not, then you check the remote wire with a test light, at the head unit, and see if you are getting voltage there. If not, then you may have damaged that circuit in that head unit. If it's a $100 head unit, then you might as well buy a new one, or find a different accessory circuit to connect it to.

 

[Chickenmilk98]

No, they absolutely are not. I have never seen one that is. Please find JUST ONE head unit that has a fused remote-out of the wire.


They usually max out at 300-500 millivolts.


Yes, do this, to make sure it works. If you do this, and this works, then get a test light, and check the remote wire to the battery. Depending on the size of the wire you used, and how it's running, the wire itself may have gotten damaged and internally broke the strands without you even being able to see it. You can theoretically use I think it's 24awg wire, but it's so small you run the risk of breaking it, just by feeding it through a few places. 16awg is what is usually recommended, and only going that large because of the physical dimensions of the wire, and the less likelihood of damaging it even when you're being careful.



OP
If you have your deep cycle battery connected to the starter, how is it wired? If you have the remote in line with the starter, then you're never going to complete a circuit on the battery unless the ignition switch is cranking, and you're amps wouldn't get power then.

There's no reason to have those connected straight to either battery. They are only about a couple hundred millivolts each. You could connect those to anything and have them work, and they would never notice the draw. If you just have one amp, then check both the connections as stated earlier. If your amp comes on when you connect the 12v to the remote wire, (just a short jumper at the terminal next to it to test), then you need to double-check the wire. A test light will tell you if you're getting voltage at the end of the wire. If not, then you check the remote wire with a test light, at the head unit, and see if you are getting voltage there. If not, then you may have damaged that circuit in that head unit. If it's a $100 head unit, then you might as well buy a new one, or find a different accessory circuit to connect it to.

A new remote wire ran and tried off two sources only one of the amps turned on the other one won't. It has power at both the remote post and the power post but will not turn on. Still turns on if I run a jumper lead but the relay wouldn't work when wired up.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

A new remote wire ran and tried off two sources only one of the amps turned on the other one won't. It has power at both the remote post and the power post but will not turn on. Still turns on if I run a jumper lead but the relay wouldn't work when wired up.

Correction, I fuse most HU remotes should have been the read, not that most are fused, just something I do. Roughly .5 amps to one, multiplied by the number of turn-ons needed. With the advent of processors that have the ability to power most peripheral units, not so much a concern anymore. Little wires can overheat and melt too, just prudent in my book. I still can't figure out why you are having issues getting a determination though. I would start over. You can check the amps operability by using two hot leads, plain and simple. I use this technique using a simple 25 amp Pyramid power supply, you can do it from the main battery, then the 2nd one for $hit$ and giggle's.

(you know what is said, everything is $hit$ giggles until someone giggles and $hit$)

With the amp grounded, disconnected from the signal and the power. Input a basic 16 gauge lead connected to the main battery, then, take a separate lead also connected to the same main battery (splitting the one used at the end or using a 16 gauge speaker wire for the two leads works) and touch it with the 2nd lead or daisy chain it from a single lead, to the remote input on the amp. If it turns on and off when the 2nd hot lead is connected and removed from the remote input on the amp, then the amp is working as it should and the problem is with the remote lead. If that results in intermittent turn on and off, (it doesn't always turn it on) there is a problem with the amp (which would include a bad amplifier ground or remote turn on circuit). I don't see how it can be any other way. You have an amp or a hot/remote lead source issue, one or the other.