subs doing very weird things

Im sure you have your own opinions, and last i checked "sony" was a name brand. Love your use of swearing, im glad you have the cognitive ability to put it into a sentence. Your input has been rather disregarded by me, due to your very blunt and stupid response. I am listening to others who actually have reason behind the things they say.

I have been getting advice in this thread, which i dont think you may be reading fully, and I have had a HO alt suggested to me, so i stated my dealings with HO alts. and people have asked other questions to help me find a possible fit. If a new alt may be a viable option, then it is something I will consider doing.
ive given you the most direct solutions, lose the caps, dont get a HO alt, since youwont find one worth a **** for under 400 dollars and you dont need it. also when you get the chance getrid of the kicker an kenwood stuff and have someone with true knowledge of what they are doing set the next one up for you. btw...sony isnt considered a "name brand" to people on this site or people of the same caliber.

oh and if you spent more that 300 on all of that in the cargo area your lack of knowledge was taken advantage of.

this aint a pissin contest sonny jim, take the advice or deal with your mistake, and dont put on your big boy pants and try to intimidate me with your rhetoric and down talk the way i speak casually on a website, you know you talk he same way when you dont have your little facade on, its proven that when someone starts making attacks on aspects of another person other than the matter at hand they have become insecure by somethig the other person has done so back it up a lttle bit and chill the fuck out, then go to your car and fix your shit

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/nutkick.gif.acc8dcd6c1bd27fba0cbeda5b212085c.gif

 
Another CA.com thread full of stupid. Way to go guys!



OP I would recheck your connections, especially your ground connection to the car.. Unhook it, clean it up, and make sure its reattached well..
L M A O!!! clean it up... Reattach it..??

you've got to be F'n kidding.!!?? The caps are 97.17493% the problem..

You beem on this forum for awhile, you "should" know this but i guess not!!! :-(

 
got the big 3 done. sounds much better! I want to re-do my battery terminals so I dont have to deal with the rings connected to mine, but for now it is good. Next thing to go (either tonight or tomorrow) will be the caps. voltage is increasing, and there is a lot more bass.

BTW: ville, i didnt even bother reading that, Im sorry, id rather read useful information.

 
also if you get a chance. take a look at your power wires, make sure they arnt starting to burn. since your voltage was dropping you were likely pulling too many amps through it which could have caused some damage.

but like has been said. a 1/0+ run to the back would be a very good idea.

and as far as the alt, look into excessive amperage. nathan was one of the few that would build an alt for my tib, and i couldnt be happier with it

 
FFS if you need to upgrade your alt then your battery must be fried... Theres no way your stereo requires a HO alt. If your sub amps are pulling peak current draws bigger than your Alt supplies then the battery supplies all the extra current. If you are pulling more current with peaks than your battery can supply you should upgrade your battery to handle the demand. If your electrical system is drawing continuously up to 80% of your Alts supply then you will need to look at replacing your Alt. Theres no way your system will be doing that.

You have for your voltage to drop out that badly either faulty caps/cap, a poor power wire connection somewhere, bad battery or Alternator. Don't waste your time anywhere else. Its a process of elimination so bypass your caps first to see if it stops the dropout. I'f it still does it its not going to hurt to upgrade to the biggest lead acid battery you can fit. If that doesn't work eg its going flat check your alt.

Hope it works out for you....

 
the caps are out, both of them, and I am using a digital multimeter to check voltages both in the trunk, and under the hood. I am seeing as low as 10.8 in the trunk, and 11.8 at the battery. Should the battery be replaced next? would that yield the greatest stabilizer for this power flux? The big 3 is DONE and in, the caps are OUT, the connections are all checked. Its running louder, but still has big dips.

 
What does it mesure with the car running... But yeah replacing the batt with the biggest lead acid you can get (reason for using lead acid over Deep cycle is fast discharge - recharge, I'd only ever consider a Deep Cycle if I was one to park up for long periods cranking my stereo- like at a show). Even still you have a lot of voltage drop to the back?!!!

 
that is with the car running at idle. And it may be just because I was catching the numbers off the multimeter at different times. I was looking at optima red tops and yellow tops, and I am having trouble deciding wich is the right option to go with. Also, I was looking online, and at my local NAPA auto parts, they do not sell a red or yellow top battery with the positive post on the right (My car has very short wires and is designed for positive on the right). I was hoping to see one with the positive on the right and negative on the left, with dual posts (post on top for factory, and side posts for performance system). Do you know if they make them that way? the only ones I found had the positive posts on the left. Maby a different battery company even? suggestions?

 
I was talking about with the subs in full load... Im seeing about 13.8-14.3 when my car is at idle with the subwoofers not moving. On a song that has a constant heavy note, thats when my voltage dips. Any idea on a new optima battery? or am I out of luck?

 
the yellowtop is a deep cycle. that means that it has little effect on the battery if it is drained quite flat then just charged right back up. the yellowtop is a better choice for car park sound offs and hi drain listening.

the Redtop is more of a starter battery. the reason it can put out more amps for 10 seconds is because its built to put out more... for 10 seconds. its a better starting battery than the yellowtop. Also Redtops are very good for SPL vehicles that only need to burp. they can deliver much more power in the short time they are used, hence why I'd choose the Red over the Yellow. But it al depends on how you will use it.....

Either are great batteries, just kinda different purposes.

Downside of a deep cycle battery: slow transient response.

They can withstand deep discharges and recharges without damage.

Deep cycle batteries use thicker plates inside to withstand abuse - but those thicker plates are more difficult to get electrons from quickly. Hence why I prefer Lead Acid batts...

 
caps are gone, a new alternator (200amp) is $420 so im saving for that. and thanks for the minivan compliment, 2004 saab sportwagon... saab doesnt even make minivans...

 
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