The do's and dont''s of my first wall....it seems like something isn't right....

[ferguson621]

I had the back complete but i took the top part of it off and i had to make the holes for the rods....also i do plan on cutting the rod down lol, its not even in all the way....i still have to put the nut on the inside of the rod. I also have to cover the holes on the bottom by the two subs.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Need to cover over that pocket where the batteries are too. Also looks like the entrance of that port isn't very clean. Get yourself some bondo on that and clean that up a bit.

Once you get all the holes filled this might do pretty well for you.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

I had the back complete but i took the top part of it off and i had to make the holes for the rods....also i do plan on cutting the rod down lol, its not even in all the way....i still have to put the nut on the inside of the rod. I also have to cover the holes on the bottom by the two subs.

did you use the square washers with the lock nuts? the round washers are MUCH less effective. you need surface area and integrity money...

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

also another trick Ill give you is behind each driver you want to A give the pressurized air a GOOD PATHWAY to stop reflection and help control refraction or B use diffusion to eliminate loading and standing waves. This is something you can test and see the difference. for example.

Firing the sub against the trunk loads the cone so you get more power to the driver but this doesn't often give you gains. i loose .3db by turning the box around and my power drops from 1860 to 1250 or so. That should be nearly a 1.5db gain not .3! Not to mention the sub/box peaked at 45 forward when my res is closer to 50 and facing back it peaks at 49 and 50 so just unloading the cone and sealing hte trunk and tuning up give me 1bd higher than the trunk with 600 less watts..

The more you load the cone with air mass not in phase with the driver you load the driver. its not a huge deal with very deep boxs but its helps. you will get less power to the driver but it will give you the same and sometimes better scores. this is one trick to being able to put so much power to drivers without ripping them apart of hitting thats power compression wall.

 

[ferguson621]

As much as i go to hardware stores and mess with screws, nuts, and bolts ive never seen square washers lmao....i find that really weird lol. And yes hispls I'm not gonna lie I did throw the back on to see what they would sound like and it was already getting really loud. Even with the few spots i need to fill in. And los i kinda understand what your saying

Ok i re read your post los and i understand what your saying now

 

[Lbetts818]

I am in charge of all facilities in a local screw district and all our maintanance guys use square washers on anything that will have a heavy load. There's more surface area to spread per sq in. If you ever look on a steel ladder on a building 99% of the time should be a square washer. But keep taking your time man!! Looks like your making progress.

School district.

 

[ferguson621]

That's really cool....I'll have to try and find some today

 

[ferguson621]

Yeah i looked them up online and they're expensive....I'd be better off making my own lol.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Secure your batteries better. Those wood screws you put in front of the batteries won't hold those in place if you stop quickly

 

[ferguson621]

Yes i know alex lol....i plan on covering them with a piece of wood that will also cover the 4x4's on the outside of the port to make it look nice....it's just been extremely hot the past few days so it's been quite the challenge to work on it....and I've been getting a few kinks in my trans swap fixed finally so i took a long break from my wall. But thank you for that lol.

 

[BMayes36]

Secure your batteries better. Those wood screws you put in front of the batteries won't hold those in place if you stop quickly

Noticed that too. Plus I see light, meaning wall isn't sealed.

thats already been mentioned as well I see.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Noticed that too. Plus I see light, meaning wall isn't sealed.

thats already been mentioned as well I see.

Yeah, I don't think the back of the box is all on yet

 

[ferguson621]

Nope its not, i took it apart so i can seal it up some more at the bottom. And i want to brace the port a little more for peace of mind. It's finally starting to cool down. So I'm going to work on it some more here shortly, ill take some pictures of everything i get done.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Secure your batteries better. Those wood screws you put in front of the batteries won't hold those in place if you stop quickly

Also you need to put some heavy duty foam to keep the vibration as low as possible..

3rd you need to delay that 15" woofer to help with you phasing and to avoid loading.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Nope its not, i took it apart so i can seal it up some more at the bottom. And i want to brace the port a little more for peace of mind. It's finally starting to cool down. So I'm going to work on it some more here shortly, ill take some pictures of everything i get done.

if you do ONE THING do this. get fiberglass save the saw dust and mix the fiberglass resin and saw dust. 1 to 3 ratio and coat the box at least twice. the sawdust increases the density and reducies caking and cracking!