Thinking of 2nd battery, will this work?

Hmm... you're close but just not quite right. There is a difference between competitors and a daily setup. Competitors use JUST the bank of batteries. They are the only source of potential so the voltage will not jump around. Once they are done competing, they take their vehicle back home and charge the bank of batts on a charger.
This guy is using his alternator. The alternator puts out a voltage of 14.4v usually. It is this high to cause current to flow out of the alternator and keep the battery charged. A simple electronics class will show you that the current flows from the highest source of potential. So while the circuit's voltage is 14.4 there is NO CURRENT flowing from the battery... it is DRAWING current itself. IT NEVER discharges until the circuit voltage reaches it's float charge of 12.6v. So for this reason you can add batts til the cows come home and it will never get rid of dimming but rather make it worse.

Adding batteries DOES add extra potential for current draw but it does nothing to help dimming which is a voltage issue.
i had a red top in the back and added a second, and it eliminated my dimming so something with that statement musnt be true.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
i had a red top in the back and added a second, and it eliminated my dimming so something with that statement musnt be true.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
Again, argue with the laws of physics. YOUR statement must not be true. Unless your red top was charged above your alt's output voltage and magically generated the charge to stay there, you're not telling the truth. What you say isn't possible.

Also, a red top is a starting battery. It is NEVER supposed to be deep-cycled. If you were using it as a second battery (with an isolator... the only LOGICAL way to use a 2nd batt) then you were messing up. None of your post sounds credible.

 
you wrong, yea all that looks good on paper but try it once
You don't even know what you're talking about. Where do you think the numbers came from? The math was discovered based on observations of real-world scenarios. Equations that represent what actually happens were formulated to be able to take two knows and predict what the variable will be. Again, this is all indisputable. I HAVE tried it, and I know I'm right. Also, "you wrong" is laughable. While you're getting your education, learn how to speak.

 
You don't even know what you're talking about. Where do you think the numbers came from? The math was discovered based on observations of real-world scenarios. Equations that represent what actually happens were formulated to be able to take two knows and predict what the variable will be. Again, this is all indisputable. I HAVE tried it, and I know I'm right. Also, "you wrong" is laughable. While you're getting your education, learn how to speak.
u mad?

 
Again, argue with the laws of physics. YOUR statement must not be true. Unless your red top was charged above your alt's output voltage and magically generated the charge to stay there, you're not telling the truth. What you say isn't possible.
Also, a red top is a starting battery. It is NEVER supposed to be deep-cycled. If you were using it as a second battery (with an isolator... the only LOGICAL way to use a 2nd batt) then you were messing up. None of your post sounds credible.
lol, laws of physics, electrical theory. Please keep posting on these subjects because you are cracking me up. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
did you check to make sure your battery is still good? It may have enough juice to start the car but might be dieing. load test it, 04 and still the original?

 
I think 1000rms with big 3 and nice sized kinetik under the hood will be ok for that install. Im pretty sure you have a 140a alt in an escalade and thats enough to run the car and the radio if you do some small tweaking to your electrical system.

 
I love the ePhysicist with 24 posts telling everyone that they are wrong.

It's simple, a battery rests at a certain voltage... as you draw current from the battery, the voltage begins to drop //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif OMG I NO RITE?!?! CRAZY

Adding a larger bank of batteries leaves the amp with a much larger pool of energy to tap into. Even with a 300 amp HO alt, if you've got a shitty stock battery, the voltage is still going to drop... there's just not a large enough reserve of power to stabilize things. Your mixing up theories between the relationship between AMPERAGE and VOLTAGE. He's got an escalade. Those things have decently beefy alternators to start with... so he's good in that case. He just needs an extra battery. I'm not saying that the Big3 is useless... infact I would recommend it HIGHLY when adding a battery as it enables all batteries to receive charging much easier.

With that being said, I remember someone earlier mentioned the current draw of the amp. That is another valid point. A very old class A/B amp is going to be a power hungry little beast. If you were to switch to a newer class D monoblock, you could get the same 1kw rms while eating up about 60% of the previous power draw of that A/B amp.

Big 3 + extra battery or big 3 + newer amp should solve any problems.

The first order of business would be the big 3 though. It just may just outright solve the dimming issues. If not, then look into another battery or a newer efficient amp (or both //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif)

 
I love the ePhysicist with 24 posts telling everyone that they are wrong.
It's simple, a battery rests at a certain voltage... as you draw current from the battery, the voltage begins to drop //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif OMG I NO RITE?!?! CRAZY

Adding a larger bank of batteries leaves the amp with a much larger pool of energy to tap into. Even with a 300 amp HO alt, if you've got a shitty stock battery, the voltage is still going to drop... there's just not a large enough reserve of power to stabilize things. Your mixing up theories between the relationship between AMPERAGE and VOLTAGE. He's got an escalade. Those things have decently beefy alternators to start with... so he's good in that case. He just needs an extra battery. I'm not saying that the Big3 is useless... infact I would recommend it HIGHLY when adding a battery as it enables all batteries to receive charging much easier.

With that being said, I remember someone earlier mentioned the current draw of the amp. That is another valid point. A very old class A/B amp is going to be a power hungry little beast. If you were to switch to a newer class D monoblock, you could get the same 1kw rms while eating up about 60% of the previous power draw of that A/B amp.

Big 3 + extra battery or big 3 + newer amp should solve any problems.

The first order of business would be the big 3 though. It just may just outright solve the dimming issues. If not, then look into another battery or a newer efficient amp (or both //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif)
So now post count determines who knows what? If that's the case then why with your 800 plus do you not know jack shyt? Please, if someone wants to argue, please provides some sort of fact proving that current does not only flow from the highest source of potential. If you can't do that, you fail.

 
Who the f*** is this e crackhead. Like Christ, I know adding my second bat in the back helped my dimming regardless of your stupid poor attitude saying that I'm wrong, come fly to Winnipeg and I'll show you myself.

 
Please, if someone wants to argue, please provides some sort of fact proving that current does not only flow from the highest source of potential. If you can't do that, you fail.
YOU ARE A DUMB ****

In a conductive wire, current flows from neg to pos. You don't even know wtf current is.

This will get you started. Although I have a feeling that you aren't any good at learning.......

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_1/7.html

http://amasci.com/amateur/elecdir.html

http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/2006-07/1152479101.Eg.r.html

http://amasci.com/miscon/eleca.html#frkel

http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=1381

1. All electric currents are flows of electrons? Wrong.

Electric currents are not just flows of electrons, they are flows of electric charge. Both protons and electrons posses exactly the same amount of 'electricity.' If either the protons *OR* the electrons flow, that flow is an electric current. In salt water, in fluorescent bulbs, and in battery acid, atoms with extra protons can flow along, and this flow is a genuine electric current. And in fuel cell membranes and in solid ice, electric current is actually a flow of protons.

2. "Electricity" is made of electrons, not protons? Nope.

Charges of "electricity" are carried both by electrons and protons. These two types of particles have very different weights (mass), but both have exactly the same amount of charge. Electrons are easily removed from atoms, while protons USUALLY are stuck to other protons, but that doesn't affect the amount of charge they carry. If we remove an electron from an atom, that atom is left with too many protons, and that's the only reason why the atom has an excess of positive electric charge. ALL positive charges in objects and in circuits are created by protons.

3. Electrons are a kind of energy particle? Wrong.

Electrons and protons are matter, not energy. A flow of electrons is NOT a flow of energy, it is a flow of matter and of electric charge. Same goes for protons. And if you have a certain amount of charge in one place, you'll have no clue about the amount of energy present. Coulombs are not Joules, and knowing the amount charge does not tell you the amount of energy you have. A moving electron does not carry energy along, any more than a moving air molecule carries a sound wave with it.

4. "Electricity" carries zero mass because electrons have little mass? No.

"Electricity" (meaning charge) has weight because charge is part of matter particles. A flow of charge always requires a flow of carrier particles, so electric current must always carry mass with it. Electric current in a wire is not a flow of energy, it is a flow of matter. Ion currents in an electroplating bath are a flow of considerable amounts of matter: electric currents can transport material. However, in normal circuits we rarely notice the moving mass. There are two reasons for this: the flow is circular, so an electric current doesn't need to build up mass anywhere. Secondly, the flow is very very slow, so even if the current were moving a huge amount of mass, we'd never notice this.

5. Positive charge is really just a loss of electrons? Wrong.

Positive charge is not made of "missing electrons." Positive charge is a genuine type of charge in its own right. Yes, when protons and electrons are near each other, their charges cancel. Removing the electrons exposes the charge on the protons, and that's probably where this particular misconception originates. Since neutral atoms receive an imbalance of positive charge when electrons are removed, is seems like positive charge is nothing but missing electrons. This is wrong. If you have a handful of protons, you have a handful of positive charge. A proton is not a missing electron. And if you have a vacuum, a total lack of electrons, that doesn't mean that any positive charges are present.

6. Positive charge cannot flow? Totally wrong.

Current in a metal wire is a flow of electrons, but in many other conductors both the positive and negative charges can flow. For example, when you get a shock, no electrons flow through your body. The electric current inside your tissues is made of positively charged atoms flowing one way and negatively charged atoms flowing the other. The same is true of electrical currents in salt water, in the ground, and in battery electrolyte. When your car battery is supplying 300 amps to the starter motor, 300A worth of ions is flowing through the battery acid, and half of these are carrying positive charge. Also, plasmas can have positive ion currents as well as negative electron flows: examples are neon signs, fluorescent lights, camera flashes, and sparks of all kinds. There are even some conductors where the current is a flow of positive hydrogen ions, +H ions, otherwise known as protons. One common "proton conductor" is ice. Others are used as solid electrolytes in exotic batteries and, more recently are found as proton-conductor solid electrolyte membranes in tiny fuel cells.

7. To create "static" charge, we transfer the electrons? Not always.

"Static" or imbalanced charges can be created by removing electrons from a neutral atom. They can also be created by adding or removing charged atoms from an object, and the ions being removed can be negative or positive ions. It is even possible to add or remove bare protons from some materials (after all, protons are the same as H+ positively charged hydrogen atoms.) If you have some positively-charged water, or ice, or acid, then you probably have too many bare protons (too many H+ ions.)

 
YOU ARE A DUMB ****
In a conductive wire, current flows from neg to pos. You don't even know wtf current is.

This will get you started. Although I have a feeling that you aren't any good at learning.......

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_1/7.html

http://amasci.com/amateur/elecdir.html

http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/2006-07/1152479101.Eg.r.html

http://amasci.com/miscon/eleca.html#frkel

http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=1381

1. All electric currents are flows of electrons? Wrong.

Electric currents are not just flows of electrons, they are flows of electric charge. Both protons and electrons posses exactly the same amount of 'electricity.' If either the protons *OR* the electrons flow, that flow is an electric current. In salt water, in fluorescent bulbs, and in battery acid, atoms with extra protons can flow along, and this flow is a genuine electric current. And in fuel cell membranes and in solid ice, electric current is actually a flow of protons.

2. "Electricity" is made of electrons, not protons? Nope.

Charges of "electricity" are carried both by electrons and protons. These two types of particles have very different weights (mass), but both have exactly the same amount of charge. Electrons are easily removed from atoms, while protons USUALLY are stuck to other protons, but that doesn't affect the amount of charge they carry. If we remove an electron from an atom, that atom is left with too many protons, and that's the only reason why the atom has an excess of positive electric charge. ALL positive charges in objects and in circuits are created by protons.

3. Electrons are a kind of energy particle? Wrong.

Electrons and protons are matter, not energy. A flow of electrons is NOT a flow of energy, it is a flow of matter and of electric charge. Same goes for protons. And if you have a certain amount of charge in one place, you'll have no clue about the amount of energy present. Coulombs are not Joules, and knowing the amount charge does not tell you the amount of energy you have. A moving electron does not carry energy along, any more than a moving air molecule carries a sound wave with it.

4. "Electricity" carries zero mass because electrons have little mass? No.

"Electricity" (meaning charge) has weight because charge is part of matter particles. A flow of charge always requires a flow of carrier particles, so electric current must always carry mass with it. Electric current in a wire is not a flow of energy, it is a flow of matter. Ion currents in an electroplating bath are a flow of considerable amounts of matter: electric currents can transport material. However, in normal circuits we rarely notice the moving mass. There are two reasons for this: the flow is circular, so an electric current doesn't need to build up mass anywhere. Secondly, the flow is very very slow, so even if the current were moving a huge amount of mass, we'd never notice this.

5. Positive charge is really just a loss of electrons? Wrong.

Positive charge is not made of "missing electrons." Positive charge is a genuine type of charge in its own right. Yes, when protons and electrons are near each other, their charges cancel. Removing the electrons exposes the charge on the protons, and that's probably where this particular misconception originates. Since neutral atoms receive an imbalance of positive charge when electrons are removed, is seems like positive charge is nothing but missing electrons. This is wrong. If you have a handful of protons, you have a handful of positive charge. A proton is not a missing electron. And if you have a vacuum, a total lack of electrons, that doesn't mean that any positive charges are present.

6. Positive charge cannot flow? Totally wrong.

Current in a metal wire is a flow of electrons, but in many other conductors both the positive and negative charges can flow. For example, when you get a shock, no electrons flow through your body. The electric current inside your tissues is made of positively charged atoms flowing one way and negatively charged atoms flowing the other. The same is true of electrical currents in salt water, in the ground, and in battery electrolyte. When your car battery is supplying 300 amps to the starter motor, 300A worth of ions is flowing through the battery acid, and half of these are carrying positive charge. Also, plasmas can have positive ion currents as well as negative electron flows: examples are neon signs, fluorescent lights, camera flashes, and sparks of all kinds. There are even some conductors where the current is a flow of positive hydrogen ions, +H ions, otherwise known as protons. One common "proton conductor" is ice. Others are used as solid electrolytes in exotic batteries and, more recently are found as proton-conductor solid electrolyte membranes in tiny fuel cells.

7. To create "static" charge, we transfer the electrons? Not always.

"Static" or imbalanced charges can be created by removing electrons from a neutral atom. They can also be created by adding or removing charged atoms from an object, and the ions being removed can be negative or positive ions. It is even possible to add or remove bare protons from some materials (after all, protons are the same as H+ positively charged hydrogen atoms.) If you have some positively-charged water, or ice, or acid, then you probably have too many bare protons (too many H+ ions.)
Literally Nowhere in your bs you posted was it even RELEVANT to what I posted. Did I ever say anything about negative or positive? I said POTENTIAL. You lose again idiot.

 
did you check to make sure your battery is still good? It may have enough juice to start the car but might be dieing. load test it, 04 and still the original?
I can't say for sure. I bought the Escalade used last summer. Battery is a Duralast. Is that a typical battery that Cadillac uses or is that even relevant (do they change batteries frequently???).

I will do the big 3 first. My goal is to slowly upgrade over time. I don't want to drop a whole bunch of money at one time. My thought at this time is to see how Big 3 works. If still dimming, wait a couple of paychecks and add a battery. Still no solution then wait again and look at getting new amp.

 
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