Upgrading electrical for 5k watt system

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BoogerMan

CarAudio.com Elite
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AZ
Hey Everyone,

I just installed my new 275A Ohio Generators Alternator in my car.

I'm going to upgrade all electrical; Big 3, 2 runs positive and 2 runs negative from the D3400 under the hood to the 2 D3100s in the back.

To give a little detail, the battery is on the right side (driver side) of the engine and the alternator is on the left side (passenger side).

First question is about the big 3. I've read some people adding a 4th wire that goes from the battery negative to the engine. Is this wire necessary or beneficial? Seems like very few people add this 4th wire, but I figured I'd ask.

Second question is, what the hell is going on with my stock grounding? I don't understand which is the chassis to engine ground? The one over on the left side by the alt, or the funky situation going on under the battery?

Here is what I thought was the Chassis to Engine ground. My pinky to my thumb. This is occurring on the left side over by the alternator.

726B370B-3F93-4FC8-9EE6-C68514B3A671_zpsow7w53ac.jpg


Then I found this going on under where the battery sits. You can see the negative battery to chassis ground just below the P61 on the white tag. All good with that.

However, this is the funky part. If you look at my thumb, there are 2 wires being bolted to the chassis using the same bolt. The first wire goes from my thumb to my pinky, which appears to be a chassis to engine ground? Then in the second picture below, The second wire goes from where my thumb was in the first pic to a mounting bracket that is bolted to the engine (you can see my finger point to this bolt right under the green, blue, white, and red wire connector)

A20014E8-6391-48ED-BCC1-4A02D0B47039_zps4nu51835.jpg


18EBD50F-9071-410C-8D5A-8C7A37F9DA97_zpsfm9nm9bd.jpg


Thanks in advanced!

 
That's just multiple factory grounds. Might be a bad potential difference due to a weld or something inbetween those two points

Battery negative to alternator case then battery to chassis closest path to your rear grounds, usually firewall is good

 
I'll leave the stock wires where they are. That's good to know about why they do the multiple factory grounds too. Thanks!

Don't I also need to do a chassis to engine block (alternator case)?

 
The big 3 is positive battery to alternator, negative battery to chassis, and engine block (alternator case) to chassis, right?

So you guys are saying to add the 4th wire which is negative battery to engine (alternator case). Am I understanding that correctly?

 
Those are the wires I would upgrade yes, I replaced my battery to frame and secondary negative to the bottom block as well but I have a larger engine

 
Awesome thank you!

One last grounding electrical question.

Since I am running 2 strands of negative from the front battery to the first back battery, and then 2 strands of negative from the first back battery to the second back battery, should I also use 2 ground wires from the last battery negative to shiny metal in the cab? Or is one enough?

 
Doing almost the same.. 2 runs of pos and 2 of neg from front NSB G34 to my 4 rear NSB G31's.... Just installed a Mechman 280 and also running a 5-6k system also... What brand wire did you choose to go with????? To answer above question 1 is enough...

 
Doing almost the same.. 2 runs of pos and 2 of neg from front NSB G34 to my 4 rear NSB G31's.... Just installed a Mechman 280 and also running a 5-6k system also... What brand wire did you choose to go with????? To answer above question 1 is enough...
Awesome thanks for the help!

I went with Soundqubed for my wire. Affordable and thick. Plus all my other stuff is Soundqubed and the amp kits were on sale when I bought them so I figured why not //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

What about you?

 
Awesome thanks for the help!
I went with Soundqubed for my wire. Affordable and thick. Plus all my other stuff is Soundqubed and the amp kits were on sale when I bought them so I figured why not //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

What about you?
OFC or CCA? Stuck on fence for now. All previous systems were Knu CCA installs.

 
OFC or CCA? Stuck on fence for now. All previous systems were Knu CCA installs.
I'm pretty sure it is OFC. It doesn't actually say on their page. The wire (not including the rubber insulation) has a 12mm diameter which is what I believe SHCA says is the diameter of their OFC wire.

It's thick enough for my needs. That's what she said //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif ha

 
Welding wire it's cheaperOFC is next

Cca is a NO
Find me some cheap solid 1/0awg OFC welding wire..... Because $3.50+ a ft for audio 1/0 ofc wire when needing prob 150ft aint cheap at all....

I'm pretty sure it is OFC. It doesn't actually say on their page. The wire (not including the rubber insulation) has a 12mm diameter which is what I believe SHCA says is the diameter of their OFC wire.
It's thick enough for my needs. That's what she said //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif ha
Pretty easy to tell what you got based on price.. What you pay for how much ft?

 
Find me some cheap solid 1/0awg OFC welding wire..... Because $3.50+ a ft for audio 1/0 ofc wire when needing prob 150ft aint cheap at all....
Pretty easy to tell what you got based on price.. What you pay for how much ft?
Yeah welding cable would be your best bet if you need 150ft.

Soundqubed doesn't sell it by the foot. Just in their amp kits. $60. Comes with 17 ft of positive and 3 ft of negative (same wire just different color lol). Then also an RCA cable and fuse/fuse holder. I needed fuses, fuse holders, and rcas so I was trying to kill a few birds with one stone //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

I would have got welding cable too but I was buying everything soundqubed and I needed all the accessories that came in the amp kit so i just went that route

 
Find me some cheap solid 1/0awg OFC welding wire..... Because $3.50+ a ft for audio 1/0 ofc wire when needing prob 150ft aint cheap at all....

Pretty easy to tell what you got based on price.. What you pay for how much ft?
Here is some SoundQubed 1/0 on the left (green) next to some Kicker 1/0 on the right (blue). The Kicker wire has 4,700 strands. Looks similar in thickness. I did finally find out that SoundQubed is CCA, not OFC, which explains why it is so cheap. Good enough for my daily driver. If I was competing seriously I would get OFC, but I don't think I would notice much of a difference with my setup.

04F38275-EA4B-4546-85EF-5F6179F22C5D_zpsskgnyu8p.jpg


 
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BoogerMan

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