Waxing a car

[GearGuy2001 10+ year member]

How much did it cost?

Probably just cost of materials if its at a school.

 

[FJF 10+ year member]

what is the reason behind that anyway?

The time allows the solvents in the paint to off-gas. The paint cures, as mentioned earlier, and hardens over time. The process can be accelerated by baking the painted panels, which is why it can be advantageous to leave a newly painted car in direct sun. Most paint manufacturers recommend a 90-120 day wait before waxing, meaning the use of a silicon-based product.

Personally, I'd wait 30 days before touching the paint at all. After 30 days, assuming the ambient temps are above ~60F, I'd give it a very gentle wash. FWIW, the bulk of paint damage - swirls, spider webs - occurs during the washing/drying process. You may want to read through the tutorials on Autopia.org. While you're there, run a quick search for "fresh paint" as the thread topic.

After that point, I'd use bodyshop-safe products that allow the paint to off-gas as needed. Once 4 months of warm days pass, you should be good to go. All this assumes that you want very durable, hard paint with minimal defects. If not, then wax away with anything you like after 30 days.

 

[bigaudiofanati2 10+ year member]

Today's paint can be waxed 3 days after the car has been painted. I should know not only have I gotten my cars repainted twice but I got a entire motorcycle repainted.

 

[FJF 10+ year member]

Today's paint can be waxed 3 days after the car has been painted. I should know not only have I gotten my cars repainted twice but I got a entire motorcycle repainted.

Here is what Dupont has to say:

"120 Days is when full cure is obtained I would not wax the car until this deadline is reached

Daniel Drumeler

Technical/Color Specialist

DuPont Performance Coatings"

 

[probmxstyle 10+ year member]

I think that waiting to wax is just a myth. I have waited and also put wax on right afterwards. No problems either way. If you think about it, your going to get worse **** on your paint during those 30 days then wax. But I am sure I am wrong and that there is a technical reason.

 

[FJF 10+ year member]

I think that waiting to wax is just a myth. I have waited and also put wax on right afterwards. No problems either way.

It's all a matter of individual expectations. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

If you think about it, your going to get worse **** on your paint during those 30 days then wax. But I am sure I am wrong and that there is a technical reason.

Here's the difference: you may get contaminants on the paint, but they won't seal the finish and not allow it to off-gas, unlike a silicone-based wax or sealant. As I mentioned in a post above, a bodyshop-safe product will allow the paint to cure and offer some protection from the elements, albeit with less overall durability.

 

[probmxstyle 10+ year member]

It's all a matter of individual expectations. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif


Here's the difference: you may get contaminants on the paint, but they won't seal the finish and not allow it to off-gas, unlike a silicone-based wax or sealant. As I mentioned in a post above, a bodyshop-safe product will allow the paint to cure and offer some protection from the elements, albeit with less overall durability.

Yeah after I did some reading, I found out about the out-gassing. I thought you were not supposed to do it because it would cause adhesion issues. But its actually to allow it to harden. But the body shop I used also has a infrared lamp, so the paint was fully hardened.

 

[FJF 10+ year member]

Yeah after I did some reading, I found out about the out-gassing.

Good for you. Most folks aren't willing to put in the effort, even if it's as simple as going to the paint manufacturer's website.

But the body shop I used also has a infrared lamp, so the paint was fully hardened.

Baking typically refers to a facility that allows for the heating of the entire area, which is brought-up to a given temp.

 

[ChanzSafari 10+ year member]

If the clearcoat is baked in an oven, there is no need to wait to do anything to it. The paint is fully hardned and ready to go.

 

[pokey_159 10+ year member]

im a student at a tech school and wanting to become a painter, but i know that most teacher dont let work go out the door, unless its lugit!..but if its baked you can wet sand that ***** and buff it out and youll be fine, but if not let the paint cure for bout 30 days ...in the sun (if you can)

 

[BassMechanix 10+ year member]

Anyone bother to mention that thier are many different compounds of wax? I would wait at least 30 days, possibly more depending on what type of paint and clear coat the shop used and how many coats where put on of each. I usually do 3 or 4 color and 7 clear. Understand that paints vary with thier chemicle make-up and cure better at different temps and length withought being touched. Also do some research and get yourself the correct compound wax and tools ie. variable speed buffer, micro fiber towels and a filtered air compressor is always good to blow of excess wax. Might not be a bad idea to get yourself a micro-fiber car cover to cover the vehicle at night and put minimal miles on it until its fully cured but they arent cheap.

 

[FJF 10+ year member]

Anyone bother to mention that thier are many different compounds of wax?

Yes.

Also do some research and get yourself the correct compound wax and tools ie. variable speed buffer, micro fiber towels and a filtered air compressor is always good to blow of excess wax.

1. Many modern LSPs - including those found OTC - produce no dust, whatsoever. FWIW, both Optimum and Zaino claim to be bodyshop-safe, they're very easy to apply and remove, though I wouldn't use eather until the paint was at least 30 days old. Before that point, a bodyshop-safe glaze is the safest bet - Meguiars Mirror Glaze (err...) glazes and Presta Fast Wax are two examples.

2. A variable speed machine is a great idea. The Porter Cable 7424 DA is a popular and a reasonably priced choice. Before using a DA (ie. dual-action), I'd strongly suggest doing what I described in a previous post - read the tutorials on Autopia.org. (edit) Here's a video:



I have to disagree with this recommendation. Regardless of how soft MF may be, dragging it across relatively fresh paint that isn't pristinely clean can cause easy marring.