Which amp do I go with, several to choose between? Help!

[sacsking916 5,000+ posts]

Slightly but the subs may b a little underated. Set it up with a dmm u should b fine just keep it clean and dont clip them by turning the head unit too high or using bass boost. I ran 2 cvr 10s on my amp at 1 ohm no bass boost very little gain less than 1/4 gain for months with no prob till I found current subs.

cvr's take some abuse we all know that, do you know if those polks will take more than rated power? what amp did you give your cvrs?

 

[Jayh9797 10+ year member]

Good advice because upgrading subs might happen down the line, maybe a birthday gift to myself. Tight spaces is a concern in my truck though, that is why there aren't many subs to choose from; I have to go shallow or semishallow.

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

8's will save u alot of space and make ur trunk go BOOM lol... I vote either one of the SS's. The massive I have heard has some heat issues but IDK for sure.

 

[sacsking916 5,000+ posts]

Good advice because upgrading subs might happen down the line, maybe a birthday gift to myself. Tight spaces is a concern in my truck though, that is why there aren't many subs to choose from; I have to go shallow or semishallow.

that was why i asked if you considered shallow subs. if you plan to upgrade then get the dtr1700. if that isnt a plan then i would get something around 1000 @ 2 ohm

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Good advice because upgrading subs might happen down the line, maybe a birthday gift to myself. Tight spaces is a concern in my truck though, that is why there aren't many subs to choose from; I have to go shallow or semishallow.

Definitely consider it, saving money on a whole 'nother amp in the long run.

I wouldn't worry about shallows. I would look more into some beastly 8s though. You'd be surprised what people could design to fit in your truck, for like a pair of ported 8's. Skar 8's, Sundown 8's, TC Sounds Epic 8's, Sound Splinter 8's (closeout cheaps right now!), but that's all later on anyways.

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

Audio Savings | Boston Acoustics Audio GTA-1000M 1000 Watt RMS @ 2 Ohms Mono Car Amplifier Amp

I have one and I love it, especially for such a reasonable price. It beats my JBL within an inch of its life with clean power.

 

[Jayh9797 10+ year member]

Space is one of the reasons I bought the Polk MM1240 because they are shallow mount. On the chevy 2500 hd the back seats don't fold down fold down so mounting on a back panel isn't an option. The only option I see is mounting the amp between the subs under the back seat on a custom box.

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

Space is one of the reasons I bought the Polk MM1240 because they are shallow mount. On the chevy 2500 hd the back seats don't fold down fold down so mounting on a back panel isn't an option. The only option I see is mounting the amp between the subs under the back seat on a custom box.

The Boston has an extremely small footprint.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

Nak

 

[sacsking916 5,000+ posts]

Nak

nice sig lulz

 

[Jayh9797 10+ year member]

Narrowed it down between these 2. Which one now? This is a hard decision

Cadence ZRS700D or SS Rubicon1.1600D

Which is better

 

[Jayh9797 10+ year member]

Just bought the SS Rubi 1.1600. I wanted a little more power just in case I upgrade subs (definite possibility). Having it wired at 2 ohms. How do I make sure my electrical can handle it? If we find it can't what needs to be done? Anybody know a good install shop in Houston, tx

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

Just bought the SS Rubi 1.1600. I wanted a little more power just in case I upgrade subs (definite possibility). Having it wired at 2 ohms. How do I make sure my electrical can handle it? If we find it can't what needs to be done? Anybody know a good install shop in Houston, tx

Good choice. Anything 1000 watts or less will generally work with a stock alternator. I would suggest doing the Big 3 though, but skip the engine block run. Run a ground straight from the alternator case to either the batt negative, or your short ground termination point on the chassis close to the battery, same difference. There's no point in forcing your ground all the way through the engine block just to get to the alternator case (that's the alternator's ground).

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

^ This. Your electrical should be ok. I know mine is, all stock with the exception of the big 3. You should definitely knock that out though, it helps a lot.

Just make sure you set the gains with a DMM, and set it for 900w so you don't risk anything on the subs. It'll be easier on the amp, easier on your electric, good call all around.

Also, I don't know what wiring you have ran right now for your amp, but if it's 4 gauge, you're good for now. 4 gauge is fine for the SS rubi at 2 ohms. But you will need to upgrade to 1/0 when you drop down to 1 ohm. So if you don't already have 4 gauge, just skip it and save the long run money and get 1/0. If you do have 4 gauge down, just keep in mind, you should start saving up for some 1/0.

 

[BloodyGuts335i 10+ year member]

N3