Which battery

[mikeysheff12]

Im having trouble finding anywhere online that has a battery that will fit in my car. I’m not entirely opposed to doing a relocation kit, but I don’t necessarily want to. I have a 2000watt rms system and my bci group for my battery is 67. Through xs power website, sonicelectronix, and crutchfield. I can’t find one that matches my cranking amps needed and the size that will replace my stock battery.

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[Jonnyswboy]

Add a secondary battery in the back of the vehicle.

One of these or something similar should do well. Mount of of these trays to the floor and strap it in. Make sure you fuse it properly.

Although if you're comfortable with lithium I'd personally build a small Lifepo4 bank with Headway cells (32 or 40AH). Probably cheaper than that Northstar AGM. Depending on the size of the lithium bank you would be able to run a single battery.

 

[mikeysheff12]

Add a secondary battery in the back of the vehicle.

One of these or something similar should do well. Mount of of these trays to the floor and strap it in. Make sure you fuse it properly.

Although if you're comfortable with lithium I'd personally build a small Lifepo4 bank with Headway cells (32 or 40AH). Probably cheaper than that Northstar AGM. Depending on the size of the lithium bank you would be able to run a single battery.

I’m not that deep into the electrical of it yet. I’ve seen lithium banks but I have no clue myself how to build, install, or fit one into my car. My enclosure takes up most of my trunk space and I keep my backseats down since I have a sedan for the airflow and so my amp doesn’t overheat.

 

[mikeysheff12]

Add a secondary battery in the back of the vehicle.

One of these or something similar should do well. Mount of of these trays to the floor and strap it in. Make sure you fuse it properly.

Although if you're comfortable with lithium I'd personally build a small Lifepo4 bank with Headway cells (32 or 40AH). Probably cheaper than that Northstar AGM. Depending on the size of the lithium bank you would be able to run a single battery.

What do you think about something like this. Seems fairly solid to me and in my price range

 

[Jonnyswboy]

I’m not that deep into the electrical of it yet. I’ve seen lithium banks but I have no clue myself how to build, install, or fit one into my car. My enclosure takes up most of my trunk space and I keep my backseats down since I have a sedan for the airflow and so my amp doesn’t overheat.

6000w 24 Headway cell 12v KIT ONLY BUSBAR + HOLDERS

This is a complete copper busbar and cell holder kit with handles, custom made just for the red 38120 Headway cells. Cells are not included. We sell the used cells at a great price so you can build your own 12v module at a crazy low price. With this kit you can build a 4s6p (12.8v 48ah) module...

batteryhookup.com

USED HEADWAY 38120 HP 3.2V 8AH LIFEPO4 BATTERY

THESE CELLS HAVE NOT BEEN CAPACITY TETSTED BUT THEY ARE GUARANTEED TO ARRIVE WITH GOOD VOLTAGE AND ALL WERE REMOVED IN WORKING CONDITION FROM BACKUP STARTER BATTERY PACKS. WE GUARANTEE NO DEAD CELLS AND AT THIS PRICE YOU CAN'T GO WRONG. NO COMPRESSION NEEDED FOR CYLINDRICAL CELLS. THESE ARE BIG...

batteryhookup.com

And a balancer. You can find a lot of youtube videos about building Headway banks. TBH if you aren't going to upgrade past 3-4k RMS it's gonna be hard to beat this for the price.

 

[Jonnyswboy]

What do you think about something like this. Seems fairly solid to me and in my price range

That's perfect, I would do that if you can fit it. Otherwise you can go for a smaller bank.

There are many options for bus bars including the ones I linked above that take 24 cells. Also these are a premium option.

64AH would overkill for a 2k RMS setup, especially if you're only clamping closer to 1k. Although headroom is never a bad thing. I'd get as many AH as you can afford and fit.

If you're willing to DIY a bank I would. But if you aren't there are a lot of options for pre-built if you are willing to pay around double for the same performance. I like CES LTO banks if you are willing to charge closer to 15.5v. Could also look into Scibs and Yinlong DIY banks if you're willing to charge ~15.5v.

 

[mikeysheff12]

That's perfect, I would do that if you can fit it. Otherwise you can go for a smaller bank.

There are many options for bus bars including the ones I linked above that take 24 cells. Also these are a premium option.

64AH would overkill for a 2k RMS setup, especially if you're only clamping closer to 1k. Although headroom is never a bad thing. I'd get as many AH as you can afford and fit.

If you're willing to DIY a bank I would. But if you aren't there are a lot of options for pre-built if you are willing to pay around double for the same performance. I like CES LTO banks if you are willing to charge closer to 15.5v. Could also look into Scibs and Yinlong DIY banks if you're willing to charge ~15.5v.

I’d actually like to build my own, it seems pretty straightforward from what I’ve researched in the past hour or so. I think I’m gonna do the same setup that I linked in that video. Mainly because since it’s sitting in my trunk and I have a lot of tools on top of my back seats, if they slide around at any point and touch the bus bars, I don’t want anything to arc or ground out. I like that battery cover a lot

What do you mean by clamping closer to 1k?

The only bad part about my amp is that it dynos 2600 t full tilt but only like 64% efficiency.

it’s only about $364 excluding shipping fees to get everything I need for that 64ah bank. So it’s well within my price range.

 

[mikeysheff12]

That's perfect, I would do that if you can fit it. Otherwise you can go for a smaller bank.

There are many options for bus bars including the ones I linked above that take 24 cells. Also these are a premium option.

64AH would overkill for a 2k RMS setup, especially if you're only clamping closer to 1k. Although headroom is never a bad thing. I'd get as many AH as you can afford and fit.

If you're willing to DIY a bank I would. But if you aren't there are a lot of options for pre-built if you are willing to pay around double for the same performance. I like CES LTO banks if you are willing to charge closer to 15.5v. Could also look into Scibs and Yinlong DIY banks if you're willing to charge ~15.5v.

I do have a question on how to wire up the lithium bank though. Do you wire it to the stock battery or the alternator

 

[Jonnyswboy]

I’d actually like to build my own, it seems pretty straightforward from what I’ve researched in the past hour or so. I think I’m gonna do the same setup that I linked in that video. Mainly because since it’s sitting in my trunk and I have a lot of tools on top of my back seats, if they slide around at any point and touch the bus bars, I don’t want anything to arc or ground out. I like that battery cover a lot

What do you mean by clamping closer to 1k?

The only bad part about my amp is that it dynos 2600 t full tilt but only like 64% efficiency.

it’s only about $364 excluding shipping fees to get everything I need for that 64ah bank. So it’s well within my price range.

Nice, building is always the way to go if you can. Just make sure you have enough room for that big 64AH w/ case.

Clamping is when you use a clamp meter to measure AC Volt and AC Amps on the amplifier output to figure how many watts the speaker is actually seeing. If you are only clamping like 1-2kW on a sine wave at tuning then this battery is super overkill and you could honestly get away with like 32AH probably. But if its within your budget I say **** it and go overkill.

I do have a question on how to wire up the lithium bank though. Do you wire it to the stock battery or the alternator

Remove stock battery and connect the new lithium bank directly to the alternator. You will most likely have to relocate the battery to the rear due to size of the battery and temps in engine bay so make sure it's properly fused.

 

[mikeysheff12]

Nice, building is always the way to go if you can. Just make sure you have enough room for that big 64AH w/ case.

Clamping is when you use a clamp meter to measure AC Volt and AC Amps on the amplifier output to figure how many watts the speaker is actually seeing. If you are only clamping like 1-2kW on a sine wave at tuning then this battery is super overkill and you could honestly get away with like 32AH probably. But if its within your budget I say **** it and go overkill.



Remove stock battery and connect the new lithium bank directly to the alternator. You will most likely have to relocate the battery to the rear due to size of the battery and temps in engine bay so make sure it's properly fused.

Exactly what I was thinking, I plan on to keep upgrading and climbing in wattage when I can with bigger amps, bigger subs, so why not set a ground basis for it by doing an overkill on the supply. I was thinking about deleting my stock battery and putting a distribution block there, the only problem is on my positive terminal, there are fuses that came from factory that are quite literally built into the terminal ring and another problem is that I’m not sure if my car has a vehicle voltage management system, I’ve heard that would change up the way how to do it a bit.

 

[Jonnyswboy]

Exactly what I was thinking, I plan on to keep upgrading and climbing in wattage when I can with bigger amps, bigger subs, so why not set a ground basis for it by doing an overkill on the supply. I was thinking about deleting my stock battery and putting a distribution block there, the only problem is on my positive terminal, there are fuses that came from factory that are quite literally built into the terminal ring and another problem is that I’m not sure if my car has a vehicle voltage management system, I’ve heard that would change up the way how to do it a bit.

This is how mine is wired up (right side is the trunk). I just used a fuse block up front in place of a distribution block (why pay for both am I right). Your fuses will probably differ from mine. You can just take the factory ring terminal and connect it to the input of the fuse block (or output if you want redundant fuses like where my diagram says "fuse box", or chop off the factory fuse and add your own ANL fuse with the same rating).

 

[mikeysheff12]

This is how mine is wired up (right side is the trunk). I just used a fuse block up front in place of a distribution block (why pay for both am I right). Your fuses will probably differ from mine. You can just take the factory ring terminal and connect it to the input of the fuse block (or output if you want redundant fuses like where my diagram says "fuse box", or chop off the factory fuse and add your own ANL fuse with the same rating).

View attachment 36154

I’m not that good with diagrams so it’s a little hard to understand that. So I could get a fused distribution block, take all four wires from my positive terminal and put it into the fused block.

What if some of them don’t need to be fused, should I still put a fuse in place or what do I do.

Also for the negative terminal there’s a ground wire and another wire leading to that terminal, should I just get a basic distribution block, a second one, not anything fancy and connect those wires

 

[mikeysheff12]

Also I can’t find any fused distribution blocks that aren’t over $50 that have 4 1/0 gauge inputs and at least 1 1/0 output

 

[Jonnyswboy]

I’m not that good with diagrams so it’s a little hard to understand that. So I could get a fused distribution block, take all four wires from my positive terminal and put it into the fused block.

What if some of them don’t need to be fused, should I still put a fuse in place or what do I do.

Also for the negative terminal there’s a ground wire and another wire leading to that terminal, should I just get a basic distribution block, a second one, not anything fancy and connect those wires

You do not need any distribution block. You will replace your front battery with this fuse block (or anything functionally identical) which will act as the positive terminal in the engine bay. The side of the fuse block with the numbers is the "input" which is where you connect the alternator hot wire. Everything connected to the factory negative terminal must be connected to the chassis/block, which becomes your ground up front.

(there will be one more wire connected to the input (or output with another fuse), the prefused one that you mentioned earlier)

I can elaborate further if needed. We could do a voice call too if that's easier.

If you haven't done something like this before it can be hard to wrap your head around it at first.

 

[Jonnyswboy]

You do not need any distribution block. You will replace your front battery with this fuse block (or anything functionally identical) which will act as the positive terminal in the engine bay. The side of the fuse block with the numbers is the "input" which is where you connect the alternator hot wire. Everything connected to the factory negative terminal must be connected to the chassis/block, which becomes your ground up front.

View attachment 36158
(there will be one more wire connected to the input (or output with another fuse), the prefused one that you mentioned earlier)

I can elaborate further if needed. We could do a voice call too if that's easier.

If you haven't done something like this before it can be hard to wrap your head around it at first.

Just realized you probably will only need one wire going to the trunk battery because your alternator is less than 300A (max for 1/0 OFC).