Recent content by BASSMEKANIK89

With all of those screw I hope you fiberglass mat and resin'd every joint. Wood glue will only do so much when you split the wood in half before it cures. IMO... Would love to hear it though. Good build!

The reason that the ground wire didn't reach is you installed the amp in the wrong location. The grounding point should NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER be mor than 15-18" from your amplifier. You probably didn't even order real copper wire. Im guessing best "value" like a CCA wire... I hope...

Looking for any amp that will produce 1000+ watts for only $300 is just not a good solution unless you are buying from a distributor or a ebay/craiglist solution. You might have better luck saving your money for a bit and buying something that is more reliable and you can get a warranty that is...

If the lights dimming is your issue why not install the cap on your lights instead of your F&*KED up install. It would do more good than on your amplifier to solve your problem. Post like this are the reasons that you should PAY someone who knows WTF is going on to do the job.

Optimum power for the 8w7 is 300 watts. The challenge you are going to have is the 3-ohm rating per woofer. If you grab another amp you should be fine, or you can look into a larger amplifier that will produce full power @ 2-ohm. Maybe a MRP-M2000????? Lots of power and a reasonable price.

On Monday call JL Audio and ask for "Ward Bejnamin". He is head tech guy and has been there for over 15 years. He is a good guy and very honest. He will tell you which path to go with even if it is not with their product. I personnaly think the 8w7's are the way to go. I like making systems...

If you have a older car with less electronics you may be able to get away with more, but with the newer cars that are so sensitive to voltage spikes and drops why would you even consider playing with fire. Just upgrade and be done with it.

A battery isolator runs less voltage to the rear battery than the front, so a relay should be used. It bassically does the same thing, without voltage loss. I have been using the Pac-200 for awhile and noe they have the Pac 500 for ultra high current applications. Can you use it without a...

I recommend the best solution to every one of my customers. Its the right thing to do, and it should be done every time. It is unnecessary if you dont understand what you are talking about. All of those options are not needed every time, but it you want to add a 1200watt amp to most cars you...

Slamming head into desk hoping to have this make sense. He should go to Sears and have them check his Alternator output. Its free. With that being said Im going to go back to my install workstation and fix a install that was done on theories instead of facts similar to your recent post.

REALLY DID YOU JUST SAY THAT WIRE QUALITY WONT MAKE A DIFFERENCE???????? ARE YOU FLIPPIN RETARDED? He is asking how to resolve voltage/current issues and you tell him that **** wire is ok. Its cool that your car never drops below 14v, but you are on borrowed time. Your factory alternator is...

Running the woofers in to the red power band is a BAD idea especially in a ported box. You run the risk of launching the woofer. In your application you can get away with 800 watts no problem. I have done those 2 woofers with a jl500/1 in alot of vehicles and no problems. In a sealed box you...

1.) Upgrade you alternator. If your vehicle needs 125amps stock go with a 250 minimum. 2.) Upgrade the big three power under the hood and to the chassis. Also do a ground to the frame in the truck/cargo/amplocation. 3.) Make sure you are not using CCA Copper Clad Aluminum power wire for your...

Anytime. Glad to help.

I generally recommend spending 75% of your speaker budget on the front speakers because of where you sit. Do you go to concerts and turn around??? No, is the most common answer to that. The rear speakers are used for rear fill and thats it. If you did 50/50 on the money you might be losing...