2000 Camry Build

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Man I got that's same gun! Been a champ all the years I've had it.

So how hot is hot enough to apply? The surface that is.

Just clean and warm, not cold. i heat the siles sheet panels to 150 so by the time I'm ready to apply, they are close to the same temp as the surface of the metal (say 90-100) Warm, not real hot. By heating the panels (regardless of how you end up doing that) by the time you apply them, that aluminum on Siles will dissipate a lot of the heat, they always seem to be close, within about 10-15 degrees by the time I'm ready. I like the oven cause once you turn it off, they stay relatively warm and ready. There is absolutely no smell with the soles that you have, I've done several with that stuff, it works well when the surface is clean and the sheets are warm too. I even left the oven on one time, at 150, came out the next morning, saw the light on and it was not melted, just a bit "bendy"

 

[HardofWhoring]

It does get cold in LA as well as TX where Im at??? Especially this time of the year up until March even?. Especially if you do not have a heated workshop or garage to work out of

As for inner door skin areas... There are attachments to add to just about any heat gun that is interchangeable if youve ever used or bought one?(apparently not,which leads me to think you have never used one??) Nozzles ect. You would be surprised at what interchangeable attachments you can find and use for a heat gun to get to most areas working on ,with a simple searching.

I cut , lay heat and roll.. wheather its hot outside or not or even in the shop or garage period. I cant give you a count of how may vehicles Ive done over the years, but its quite q few.

Amazon product ASIN B07D7WYQCP

I have my own heat gun (kit), no need to start making assumptions, just to be rude. I've never needed to use it because it's already hot out, even in the winter it's warm enough. OP is in Louisiana, so they aren't on the top half of the US with snow on the ground that's all. If I want it hotter in the garage, I can go drive around, and the warm engine and exhaust will heat up the garage and the vehicle.

It's warm enough in the day here/there, you don't NEED to do all of that.

I just think there are better ways to do it. SPECIFICALY since OP doesn't have a heat gun. If you want an excuse to get one, okay. If you just want the material pliable, there are other ways that I think work better.

 

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Sounds like a plan, I know people where I am at, run the heater in the car on high for 30 to 60 minutes (with an outside ventilation door open), but using a heater is an option too. The key, the surface and the sheets should be heated for best results. Both surfaces should be above 75 and closer to 110.

From Dynamat:

Dynamat Xtreme conforms and fuses easily to sheet metal and other hard substrates. Material performance is optimized for temperature ranges between -10C to +60C (14F to+140F). Material can with- stand temperature extremes between -54C to +149C (-65F to +300F) and is highly resistant to aging.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Sounds like a plan, I know people where I am at, run the heater in the car on high for 30 to 60 minutes, but using a heater is an option too. The key, the surface and the sheets should be heated for best results. Both srufaces should be above 75 and closer to 110.

From Dynamat:

Dynamat Xtreme conforms and fuses easily to sheet metal and other hard substrates. Material performance is optimized for temperature ranges between -10C to +60C (14F to+140F). Material can with- stand temperature extremes between -54C to +149C (-65F to +300F) and is highly resistant to aging.

Dynamat is all I use now. It costs more, and there is stuff that works better, but I like what it does, and know that it will work well for a long time. As far as butyl only, not sure if all other stuff can claim the same temperature range.

I also didn't think about that heater option. OP should go for a drive to keep adding to the warmth of the work area, and run the heater on high for as long as they can handle it to get everything else heated up.


I have a mini personal heater, and kind of sounds like what your plan is. That's going to be a very slow process then. You will want that on the door, but not too close to where it could effect the paint, perhaps from the inside. I would be cautious of any fabric material that could be around, however you do that. Conduction would work best, perhaps a dryer heated towel to start off with.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I have my own heat gun (kit), no need to start making assumptions, just to be rude. I've never needed to use it because it's already hot out, even in the winter it's warm enough. OP is in Louisiana, so they aren't on the top half of the US with snow on the ground that's all. If I want it hotter in the garage, I can go drive around, and the warm engine and exhaust will heat up the garage and the vehicle.

It's warm enough in the day here/there, you don't NEED to do all of that.

I just think there are better ways to do it. SPECIFICALY since OP doesn't have a heat gun. If you want an excuse to get one, okay. If you just want the material pliable, there are other ways that I think work better.

Its still cold here weather there is snow or not during the winter months and even gets close to freezing points in actual weather temps., and applying anything such as that will apply properly below 50-60* and humidity to factor within makes all the differences to make such a product stick as intended. A $20 heat gun will save him time and frustration and not having to go back and do it again and makes certain that sticks as intended,and can be used for several other applications and uses in the garage and around the house even.
Riding around in a vehicle and coming back to heat an un-insulated garage is a waste of fuel and time for the heat transfered from to last beyond 15 -20 min. at best? Not sure how long that would last to gain any type of benefit?
So ...you have a better method to apply this material other than my method and used on numerous vehicles over the years that saves more time and guaranteed to work that is cheaper?
I am more than happy to learn new methods and willing to try for sure. Im on here to help others with what has and has not worked for me from mistakes as well as no issues at all,and most of all any and all new techniques of much simpler and more cost and frustration effectiveness..
So what is the cheapest ,most cost effective and and better technique to applying this stuff??
Not trying to be rude on the owning of a heat gun, but why have one and not use it with plys of deadner rolling or bending in the door cavity and can be easily used to heat up to manipulate,contour,and mend/stick back in place and save all the frustration? seems like a likely tool to be used for such??????

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Heat guns are a necessity for this work in anything but the summer in most places. I would never, as some od or have suggested, run the car to accomplish this. That is why the oven is such a great help. I heat it with the paper cover in place, it heats up to plyable, amiable temps, grab one, walk out, heat gun the surface metal, the sheet is still warm enough that it doesn't require additional steps to heat it and you're ready freddy on the spot.

P.s, I did mention that this does not apply to microwave ovens!!!

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Right now it's getting into the 30s at night. What I was talking about earlier is to use a small fan forced heater on low to blow directly on the surface to be applied to. It will be evenly heated and after the sheet is warm enough I can simply apply it with no worries about the surface getting cold before I get back to the vehicle. I could also make a box and blow another heater into it with the sheets inside separated by wood slats to get them warm. Either way it will get done. Right or wrong. But first I have to get the mechanical stuff fixed. I still got control arms, tires, and alignment to do. My mechanic is getting it tomorrow to flush the heater core.

You can try whatever method/methods youd like? Even the propand turbo cannon shop heaters are no match to the direct area of contact with a cheap heat gun from my experiences. And i do love those Turbo propane shop heaters,lol. You can use that heat gun for all kinds of stuff, heatshrink, heat up electrical tape to make stick,remove adheasive on glass,use or area rugs that roll up in the house heat plastics up to make a cracked repair,all kinds of stuff. The Wagner may be on Sale during the holidays at H.depot/ Its my favorite and I have a few we use on the daily that seem to never miss a beat. will use less electricity as well rather than running all those space heaters too, and you can get a 14 ga 50 -100ft extension cord to reach all around and inside the vehicle or shop/garage

 

[HardofWhoring]

Its still cold here weather there is snow or not during the winter months and even gets close to freezing points in actual weather temps., and applying anything such as that will apply properly below 50-60* and humidity to factor within makes all the differences to make such a product stick as intended. A $20 heat gun will save him time and frustration and not having to go back and do it again and makes certain that sticks as intended,and can be used for several other applications and uses in the garage and around the house even.
Riding around in a vehicle and coming back to heat an un-insulated garage is a waste of fuel and time for the heat transfered from to last beyond 15 -20 min. at best? Not sure how long that would last to gain any type of benefit?
So ...you have a better method to apply this material other than my method and used on numerous vehicles over the years that saves more time and guaranteed to work that is cheaper?
I am more than happy to learn new methods and willing to try for sure. Im on here to help others with what has and has not worked for me from mistakes as well as no issues at all,and most of all any and all new techniques of much simpler and more cost and frustration effectiveness..
So what is the cheapest ,most cost effective and and better technique to applying this stuff??
Not trying to be rude on the owning of a heat gun, but why have one and not use it with plys of deadner rolling or bending in the door cavity and can be easily used to heat up to manipulate,contour,and mend/stick back in place and save all the frustration? seems like a likely tool to be used for such??????

It does sound like you are trying to be rude, and just trying to argue. You're also using more assumptions to try to make your point like

A $20 heat gun will save him time and frustration and not having to go back and do it again and makes certain that sticks as intended,and can be used for several other applications and uses in the garage and around the house even.

That's a first. I think you're wrong on the heat transfer, and a vehicle heating up a garage so he doesn't lose heat. I also think if it's that cold out where a vehicle can't heat up a garage, then a heat gun (on low because of paint) is going to take 30 minutes to sit there and heat up a door to make a difference.

We can try this again later or not. I think your mindset is trying to have a one-sided conversation right now. I don't know you or anything, but you always seem more chill, and reasonable than the way I'm perceiving this. If I'm wrong, then okay.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Right now it's getting into the 30s at night. What I was talking about earlier is to use a small fan forced heater on low to blow directly on the surface to be applied to. It will be evenly heated and after the sheet is warm enough I can simply apply it with no worries about the surface getting cold before I get back to the vehicle. I could also make a box and blow another heater into it with the sheets inside separated by wood slats to get them warm. Either way it will get done. Right or wrong. But first I have to get the mechanical stuff fixed. I still got control arms, tires, and alignment to do. My mechanic is getting it tomorrow to flush the heater core.

Its getting in the lower 30s and actual temps of 28* here in the DFW areas also

 

[HardofWhoring]

Its getting in the lower 30s and actual temps of 28* here in the DFW areas also

for the lows at night.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Heat guns are a necessity for this work in anything but the summer in most places. I would never, as some od or have suggested, run the car to accomplish this. That is why the oven is such a great help. I heat it with the paper cover in place, it heats up to plyable, amiable temps, grab one, walk out, heat gun the surface metal, the sheet is still warm enough that it doesn't require additional steps to heat it and you're ready freddy on the spot.

P.s, I did mention that this does not apply to microwave ovens!!!

Great to know for sure. I will try this coming summer to see if it saves me time. deff appreciate the mentioning of not using a microwave.. LOL That could get ugly pretty quick. Ha ha

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

for the lows at night.

At nights generally atm. Its been as cold during some of the past days with wind chills. It takes a few hours to warm up here during the morning hours into the afternoons to do anything constructive until temps get back down from the 50s-and 60s a couple/few hours atm.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Great to know for sure. I will try this coming summer to see if it saves me time. deff appreciate the mentioning of not using a microwave.. LOL That could get ugly pretty quick. Ha ha

It's pretty damn cold here, 32 today and that is warm for Boise this time of the year. Unless you have a heated shop where your vehicle can stay heated overnight, kind of limited. When it's this cold, the metal car aks like a large cooling fin, and even trying to heat inside with a heat gun can be a challenge for sure, but absolutely critical as for without, no chance in hell it's going to stick.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I

It's pretty damn cold here, 32 today and that is warm for Boise this time of the year. Unless you have a heated shop where your vehicle can stay heated overnight, kind of limited. When it's this cold, the metal car aks like a large cooling fin, and even trying to heat inside with a heat gun can be a challenge for sure, but absolutely critical as for without, no chance in hell it's going to stick.

Ive done some vehicles in a non-insulated shop being in the 30s and 20s outside and maybe mid 30s in some areas inside. A nice old 60-75 watt shop bulb/light inside the vehicle and windows cracked about 1/2" and cutting sheets inside the vehicle, laying, rolling, and using the Heat gun on High/100watts or if you have a 1500 watt?, hit over the laid section for about 30 seconds and rolling? She Sticks!!