Aero port question

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Can anyone explain to me why when using a enclosure calculator, that the more ports you add, the longer the tube length for each port has to be has to be? Also, the smaller diameter tubing requires less length than a larger diameter tub does. This does not make sense to me.

 
Can anyone explain to me why when using a enclosure calculator, that the more ports you add, the longer the tube length for each port has to be has to be? Also, the smaller diameter tubing requires less length than a larger diameter tub does. This does not make sense to me.
More port area (more tubes) requires a longer length to retain the same tuning.

 
Can anyone explain to me why when using a enclosure calculator, that the more ports you add, the longer the tube length for each port has to be has to be? Also, the smaller diameter tubing requires less length than a larger diameter tub does. This does not make sense to me.
Box tuning is directly related to its size, the port area and the port length. In order to maintain the same tuning, if you change one part of the equation you need to change the others to balance things out. It just so happens that in acoustics, port area and port length are inverses of eachother. That is, when one increases, the other needs to decrease for tuning to remain equal.

 
Okay, got it. One more question for you guys......I am thinking about using three 4" round ports, all 6.89" long, in my enclosure, that is 8.45 cu ft, tuned to 35hz. Can the ports be in line, next to each other, or can I put one in each lower corner, and one in the center towards the top (all in the front of the enclosure, along with 2 forward facing subs)?

 
Okay, got it. One more question for you guys......I am thinking about using three 4" round ports, all 6.89" long, in my enclosure, that is 8.45 cu ft, tuned to 35hz. Can the ports be in line, next to each other, or can I put one in each lower corner, and one in the center towards the top (all in the front of the enclosure, along with 2 forward facing subs)?
Usually you want to keep your ports close together. I don't have anything to back this up, but I feel like if your ports are scattered around the box, there's going to be like a constant struggle for the air flow since it's going to be moving in different directions. For a daily setup, you probably wouldn't notice anything. Maybe some slight port noise and a minor loss in efficiency that would show on the meter. I'd play it safe and keep them close together personally.

 
I'd use one tube if you could. Otherwise, I'd keep the tubes all in roughly the same area. Some people separate ports and don't have phase issues, but I would not.

 
Thanks again for your input guys. I can't use a single tube, as I do not have the needed depth availible in my enclosure, with the diameter tube that I have, or I would go that route. I will either end up putting the three 4" tubes, up against each other, in a triangular shape, or in a row, on top of each other. I was unaware of the issues mentioned, by seperating the ports, over different areas on the enclosure. Thank you for your help.

 
Thanks again for your input guys. I can't use a single tube, as I do not have the needed depth availible in my enclosure, with the diameter tube that I have, or I would go that route. I will either end up putting the three 4" tubes, up against each other, in a triangular shape, or in a row, on top of each other. I was unaware of the issues mentioned, by seperating the ports, over different areas on the enclosure. Thank you for your help.
You can use 3 4" aeros, or a single one that has the same amount of area and it would be the same length. So instead of 3x 4" tubes, the math works out to use a single ~7" port, which could be made with wood (look up octoport). A single port is more efficient and will cost you a lot less. Unless I misunderstood and you don't actually have the space to mount a port that large.

 
You can use 3 4" aeros, or a single one that has the same amount of area and it would be the same length. So instead of 3x 4" tubes, the math works out to use a single ~7" port, which could be made with wood (look up octoport). A single port is more efficient and will cost you a lot less. Unless I misunderstood and you don't actually have the space to mount a port that large.
I will look into making an octoport, as I do have enough space to do so. I had never heard of that type of port before, but, I certainly can make one. I thought the only choices were slotted, or round ports, as that is all I ever hear about, or see for that matter. Heck, I learn something new every time I am on here. Also, is the seven inches from opposite flat areas, or from opposite widest corner to corner?

 
I will look into making an octoport, as I do have enough space to do so. I had never heard of that type of port before, but, I certainly can make one. I thought the only choices were slotted, or round ports, as that is all I ever hear about, or see for that matter. Heck, I learn something new every time I am on here. Also, is the seven inches from opposite flat areas, or from opposite widest corner to corner?
If you layed it down flat on the table, it would be 7" high, so you're measuring the flat sides not the corners. Keep in mind that the 7" is the inner volume. If you used 3/4" wood, the total height/width of the port would be 7 + 1.5 or 8 1/2"

 
If you layed it down flat on the table, it would be 7" high, so you're measuring the flat sides not the corners. Keep in mind that the 7" is the inner volume. If you used 3/4" wood, the total height/width of the port would be 7 + 1.5 or 8 1/2"
Thank you. I completely understand. I really appreciate your help.

 
You can. The octoport, if done correctly, should have no port noise and be more efficient than a regular square port, though.
Okay, I was just checking, as it is obviously easier to build a square shape, than an octogon shape....as I do not on a table saw, just a skill saw, and a jig saw. I'll eventually get it though.

 
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