American bass Godzilla 12

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filly4thirteen

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I’m looking to get a system. I want something loud but also quality. I’ve been looking around at local audio shops and I’ve come to the conclusion my budget it about 4K. With a single 12” sub, 2 amps, 4 door speakers, 2 dash speakers, battery and wiring/install.

What’s your thoughts on the Godzilla? I really want it to slam when I’m listening to my old school rap but also have good high end quality from the mids and highs. Im leaning towards all American bass equipment.

I will be making the enclosure myself and having a shop install. I will be removing my larger side of my Silverado back seat. It’s a 2021 crew cab.

1- 12” godzilla
1- VFL comp 3000k amp
1- vfl comp 350.4 amp
Godfather series door speakers and new dash speakers

External batter rated at 5000 watts

This is the set up I’m starting to research.

Would it sounds good?


Any advice would be appreciated as I’m at a loss with the amount of information out there
 
Got a Sundown SFB 1000.4D, BNIB $350 for a start.

1710798774277.png


NVX 6.5" "X" Series comps and matching "X" series Coaxials $225 BNIB shipped. Tweeters in the dash, 6.5's in the front doors.


In the rear doors.


Taramps 5k


That is a nice sub, but a bit spendy. But here is a great box for it.

 
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Got a Sundown SFB 1000.4D, BNIB $350 for a start.

View attachment 57593

NVX 6.5" "X" Series comps and matching "X" series Coaxials $225 BNIB shipped. Tweeters in the dash, 6.5's in the front doors.


In the rear doors.


Taramps 5k


That is a nice sub, but a bit spendy. But here is a great box for it.

Thank you for your reply!! I appreciate you
 
It's all good!
It’s all so overwhelming. There’s so many opinions on what’s good and what’s not. I ultimately want it to slam HARD. But want high quality and I can build my own box using my cnc and cabinet making skillz lol. 1 12 or 2 10s. Ported or sealed. Down fire or not. I wish I knew more
 
4.600It’s all so overwhelming. There’s so many opinions on what’s good and what’s not. I ultimately want it to slam HARD. But want high quality and I can build my own box using my cnc and cabinet making skillz lol. 1 12 or 2 10s. Ported or sealed. Down fire or not. I wish I knew more
WEll, there are a lot oof people here that know enough to help. TOns of us have lots of equipment like me and are willing to part with it for a reasonable price. Most of what I sell here is something that was ordered or purchased for myself or builds where they ran into financial trouble and could not proceed or like that amp, they wanted $100 to take it back after m y customer changed their mind.

The are tons of choices for sure. I still recommend a lot of the same things as what I listed here, for a myriad of builds. The "x" series NVX are very good quality budget speakers. So are their subs, but not of the caliber that you're interested in.

Polk MM series are often noted here as well, many like their sound. I've got a used FOcal FDP 4.600 for $250 shipped too. Not as powerful as the one mentioned earlier and probably a better fit for the speakers noted. But most of the systems I've put together for people in here and at my place, pretty happy with the outcome.

CDT, Si, AudioFrog, eXcelsus, many really good brands.

With 4k, you could do a pretty bang-up system. Tweeters or wideband in the dash, 6.5s in the doors, fills in the rear, subs, glue and screw or your own box, with help with the design.. I've designed boxes and others in here have too. @Buck is the man

Do you know if you want to go fully active with DSP?

Best to know post what the year/make/ model and trim of the car.
If you want to use the factory HU or not.
Fully active with DSP?
Deadening treatments?
How much of this can you do yourself?
You've established the budget which should provide a good amount for a very good system.
 
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I’m looking to get a system. I want something loud but also quality. I’ve been looking around at local audio shops and I’ve come to the conclusion my budget it about 4K. With a single 12” sub, 2 amps, 4 door speakers, 2 dash speakers, battery and wiring/install.

What’s your thoughts on the Godzilla? I really want it to slam when I’m listening to my old school rap but also have good high end quality from the mids and highs. Im leaning towards all American bass equipment.

I will be making the enclosure myself and having a shop install. I will be removing my larger side of my Silverado back seat. It’s a 2021 crew cab.

1- 12” godzilla
1- VFL comp 3000k amp
1- vfl comp 350.4 amp
Godfather series door speakers and new dash speakers

External batter rated at 5000 watts

This is the set up I’m starting to research.

Would it sounds good?


Any advice would be appreciated as I’m at a loss with the amount of information out there
Personally I wouldn't do vfl amps. They're average efficiency for class d and even at the $400 or so price (what I've seen) there's better options. The cab-45 is about the same price and more power. There's quite a few 3k ish ampsout there in the same price range as the vfl. There's so many good options for 4 channels out there it's kinda crazy.

Depending what you're doing with your mids/highs there's a lot components that'd sound better around the same price and if you're doing pa mid/super tweets there's tons of options available.

Every one brand system I've ever heard could've been about the same for less or better for about the same if everything wasn't the same brand.

Personally I've cdt components and coaxials, a crescendo symphony 6 channel, a smart3, sql-15's in the rear, and a dayton 10" sub up front...catching deals on saved me a lot without having to sacrifice quality. What's installed installed right now counting the alt, batteries, and wire plus all the audio gear...I'm around at 2800-3000 total
 
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WEll, there are a lot oof people here that know enough to help. TOns of us have lots of equipment like me and are willing to part with it for a reasonable price. Most of what I sell here is something that was ordered or purchased for myself or builds where they ran into financial trouble and could not proceed or like that amp, they wanted $100 to take it back after m y customer changed their mind.

The are tons of choices for sure. I still recommend a lot of the same things as what I listed here, for a myriad of builds. The "x" series NVX are very good quality budget speakers. So are their subs, but not of the caliber that you're interested in.

Polk MM series are often noted here as well, many like their sound. I've got a used FOcal FDP 4.600 for $250 shipped too. Not as powerful as the one mentioned earlier and probably a better fit for the speakers noted. But most of the systems I've put together for people in here and at my place, pretty happy with the outcome.

CDT, Si, AudioFrog, eXcelsus, many really good brands.

With 4k, you could do a pretty bang-up system. Tweeters or wideband in the dash, 6.5s in the doors, fills in the rear, subs, glue and screw or your own box, with help with the design.. I've designed boxes and others in here have too. @Buck is the man

Do you know if you want to go fully active with DSP?

Best to know post what the year/make/ model and trim of the car.
If you want to use the factory HU or not.
Fully active with DSP?
Deadening treatments?
How much of this can you do yourself?
You've established the budget which should provide a good amount for a very good system.
2021 Chevy Silverado crew cab trailboss
Factory hu
Yes dsp
No deadening
Only thing I can do is build the box and laminate it in the colors I want.
 
2021 Chevy Silverado crew cab trailboss
Factory hu
Yes dsp
No deadening
Only thing I can do is build the box and laminate it in the colors I want.
With the Bose factory system,bucket front seats? And no deandening needed or you have not done any yet? Deadening is critical.
 
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So it looks like you have up to 2.75" openings in the dash, 6"x9" openings in the front doors and up to 6.75" in the rear doors. Since you're going to go DSP, then a nice set of 2-way 6x9 comp's up front, coaxials in the rear, lots of options there. I kind of jumped the gun a bit, should probably establish some other things too. You will find that many in the forums are purist when it comes to soundstage and will advocate for no rear and only fronts. I like and many prefer some rear fill, I advise to the customers need, not personal preference.

Deadening:
Resonix is the best, but it's pretty expensive. If you're going to have a shop do this, they will likely only apply what they sell. On your own a couple of days work, I would figure about $250 to $400 for cabin and door treatments. I highly recommend you figure out if you can do this part, it's time consuming and you could lay down a couple of hundred dollars worth yourself and save a good $5 - $700 in labor alone as it is very time intensive. Using a $80-$100 an hour labor rate is pretty standard and that cabin will take the better part of a days labor (4-6 hours minimum) to do it right. Deadening Is critical to both sound quality and volume. To be specific, a 50 x 4 watt system in a cabin that has the noise level reduced by 9 db through treatments would take a 400 x 4 watt system to play as loud in the same cabin without it.

Do you currently have A/V fingertip functionality in the steering wheel that you want to keep? Is it the OEM 7" or 8" HU or is it an aftermarket unit?
 
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So it looks like you have up to 2.75" openings in the dash, 6"x9" openings in the front doors and up to 6.75" in the rear doors. Since you're going to go DSP, then a nice set of 2-way 6x9 comp's up front, coaxials in the rear, lots of options there. I kind of jumped the gun a bit, should probably establish some other things too. You will find that many in the forums are purist when it comes to soundstage and will advocate for no rear and only fronts. I like and many prefer some rear fill, I advise to the customers need, not personal preference.

Deadening:
Resonix is the best, but it's pretty expensive. If you're going to have a shop do this, they will likely only apply what they sell. On your own a couple of days work, I would figure about $250 to $400 for cabin and door treatments. I highly recommend you figure out if you can do this part, it's time consuming and you could lay down a couple of hundred dollars worth yourself and save a good $5 - $700 in labor alone as it is very time intensive. Using a $80-$100 an hour labor rate is pretty standard and that cabin will take the better part of a days labor (4-6 hours minimum) to do it right. Deadening Is critical to both sound quality and volume. To be specific, a 50 x 4 watt system in a cabin that has the noise level reduced by 9 db through treatments would take a 400 x 4 watt system to play as loud in the same cabin without it.

Do you currently have A/V fingertip functionality in the steering wheel that you want to keep? Is it the OEM 7" or 8" HU or is it an aftermarket unit?
I’m not sure what the finger print is. If you mean the volume and switch song buttons on the back of the wheel then yes I have those. Oem 7”
 
I’m not sure what the finger print is. If you mean the volume and switch song buttons on the back of the wheel then yes I have those. Oem 7”
You’d swear I was bi polar… but… I’ve decided to take a step back and bite this off one thing at a time. Thru listening to others vehicles and a little internet research I’ve opted to go the way of two 10s in lieu of 1 ridiculously priced 12. Mainly for the multiple sub sound and also I want two 10s. Anywho I’m going to start with the purchase of the subs and begin the building of my box under my crew cab seat. So my question is, what 10 would you recommend for overall performance and loudness. Please don’t say the w6 or 7 as that’ll run me close to 2k just for the subs and enclosure.
 
2 of the wired at 2 ohm on 1500-2000 watts would hit and sound good...plus they're PE is great with warranty stuff
 
You’d swear I was bi polar… but… I’ve decided to take a step back and bite this off one thing at a time. Thru listening to others vehicles and a little internet research I’ve opted to go the way of two 10s in lieu of 1 ridiculously priced 12. Mainly for the multiple sub sound and also I want two 10s. Anywho I’m going to start with the purchase of the subs and begin the building of my box under my crew cab seat. So my question is, what 10 would you recommend for overall performance and loudness. Please don’t say the w6 or 7 as that’ll run me close to 2k just for the subs and enclosure.
Finger-TIP functionality is the ability to control those functions from the steering wheel with your fingertips. ;)

No worries, JL is great, but overpriced in my book - for the price of one W7 you can get 2 great Si or Daytons, 4 CDT's, lots of other options.. The key is knowing what is and isn't worth it. The Dayton is a great driver, often overlooked and PE is a great company to buy from.

Couple of drivers that often come up ar from CDT and Stereo Integrity.

These come highly recommended $349 to $419 depending on the dust cap option.


THese are pretty exceptional for what and where you can get them to play $499 ea.


May want to consider 4 of these too $249 ea.


@audiobaun has some great sub options from American bass that he has worked with and will chime in I'm sure.

Selection of a sub amplifier will largley depend on the subs you decide on. I still lean towards The stinger line for budget conscious setups, they overperform in every test I've ever watched, and usually substantially.

IN the 2k realm

$200


$220 to $270



I've personably used these and they are rock solid performers at over 2500 watts $349



$370


$425


$600


Many in that $350-$750 range when you get ready and have picked out your subs. Even space savers like the Taramps, Banda, Stetsom, Soundigital full bridge amps are great options.
 
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filly4thirteen

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